A client asked me to convert a clothes closet in their bedroom to a “safe room” for their valuables and firearms. We discussed the project a bit and agreed that an additional layer of sheetrock on the inside of the closet and a commercial steel door and jam rated for 90 minutes should be sufficiant. Any other thoughts or suggestions out there?
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Fire rated weatherstripping and threshold.
Do it right, or do it twice.
First is to hid the door. That way people looking to steel won’t know there is some thing to try to open.
Second is to put a 1/2 ply wood over the out side of closet and the put sheet rock over it. That way they can’t kick there way into the room.
If the people think they want it for some place to hide if someone was to break in. Don’t forget to move the phone lines inside the house instead of on the out side of the house. Put main run to the closet and then distribute rest of the lines from there.
Don’t forget the floor for fire proofing.
Piece of advice to add to fredsmarts train of thought; if this has Panic Room potential (I really liked that movie), then don't forget a means to add fresh air to the room. Be a shame to hide from a burgular and suffocate with all the jewels and guns. And if there is access to the space above, you might want to consider adding plywood to the ceiling as well.
I suggest a sheet of galvanized metal between two sheets of 3/4 ply.
Will make it tough to get thru without tools.
Jeff
If is only a closet, then it is both simpler and more complicated. You really want a 3 hour rated door--but it will have to match any other closet doors nearby (so that it does not stand out). Hardware (door knobs) will have to match all around, too, for the same reason. Key locking on the knob is sufficient, usually, while being discrete. The hinges on the door have to have pins & matching holes to keep the door closed even with the hinge pins pulled.
For retrofit I always strip the walls bare. The cavities get rock wool insulation and two layers, fully fire taped of 5/8" X board. Note that is only about a 1 hour rating for the contents of the closet, but is better than none at all--a fire proof safe for valuables or a gun safe (with fire rating) is still a good idea for the inside of the closet. The ceiling is treated the same, as is the floor if above the first floor.
For new construction, the closet framing is isolated from the other framing--mostly to make it easier to get two layers of X board on both sides of the closet walls. It is also better to "subdivide" a larger closet, even with the hassle of having a door in a closet to confuse the clothes storage. The out-of-sight factor means being able to have a sturdy door with good locks. The out-of-sight=out-of-mind can have that expensive door left open, though . . . Liberty Safes make a door only, rated to 1200° weighing around 500#, for those wanting impressive security. But that deserves 6" block walls filled solid over a concrete floor with a fire rated ceiling.
"Panic Rooms" are a whole thread of their own. As is "retreat" room design (where a room in the house is the designated room to retreat to in case of weather, crime, or other emergency). The difference is that a panic room is rigged for a siege (food, meds, water. etc.); where a retreat room presumes that emergency services will arrive in a timely manner (shelter is more important).