This will be my first time installing wall tile and I am redoing my shower area. The bathroom is being gutted and I will start with a clean plate. The Durock I was going to use is 1/2″ in the shower area and was wondering what is the proper way to start the tiles from the top of the tub? Do I put the durock behind the lip of the tub and start tile tiles in front of the lip or do both the durack and the tile go in front of the lip of the tub?
Also how much of a gap is necessary from the top of the tub and the first row of tiles? I also want to use 1/8 spacers with the brick design subway tile going up 6 feet that I am putting up. Is there a certain type of mastik or mortar that I should use to hold the tile to the wall? Is there a way to keep my rows even other than relying on the tub top being straight? Also to keep the walls even when the 1/2 durock meets the 1/2 inch drywall is the placement at the tub (in front or behind the lip) where the even wall blend comes in?
Replies
The Durock should lap over the tub lip. I like to caulk that joint before I tile, as extra security against leaking. Usually, packing out the studs is required to get the durock over the lip. 1/4" or 3/8" strips of plywood should work. If I'm matching the durock to sheetrock, I'll shim out the entire wall.
1/8" gap is about right for the space between the tub and tile. This is another place I'd rather caulk than grout. It seems the caulk moves with the tub, and stays in place longer.
If you want to do it right, use thinset to set the tile.
I'll lay out the tile on the wall, using a Sharpie to mark the durock. Start with a center plumb line. Then see how the tiles fit running to the corner. You want the tiles at both corners to be about the same width. So you might be starting a full tile on both sides of the center line, or straddling the line.
I like to lay out the height, too, and tack a ledger a tile course or two above the tub, set level. Run the tiles to the top, remove the ledger, and fill in below. This way, if the tub isn't set perfectly, your tiles will still be.
What Shep said. But there is another issue you brought up...Mastic vs. thinset. Mastic should NOT be used in wet areas. It will soften and support mold growth.
If you don't know that then you haven't read enough to start this project. Go to johnbridge.com and read their Q & A forum or submit your question above. The folks here won't get mad if you ask another person to the dance of your project.
BBM,
Post your questions at:
http://www.johnbridge.com/vbulletin/index.php?
This is a tile Forum. The best. Tell them Chuck S sent you.
Chuck Slive, work, build, ...better with wood
I would use kerdi to get it truly waterproof.
For tile spacers, the ones by tavy tools http://www.tavytools.com/ work very well and are about the same price as any other. Lowes carries them too.
Might as well add my .02
I would never tile a shower or bath without Schulter Kerdi (http://www.schluter.com/8_1_kerdi.aspx) membrane. It will take a little more time and money but be worth it in the end. If you decide to use Kerdi use a Marshal trowel to push the fabric into the corners.
Depending on how securely your tub has been installed you may want to fill it with water to see how far the top edge drops down.
I usually start by measuring the centerline of all three walls in a vertical direction and then use a laser level to get the overall horizontal line as well. As an example if I was to install subway tile I would tile one row above the tub horizontal and then vertical from the center point to get everything square.
I normally use Keribond thinset which works very well and then back butter the tiles to ensure full adhesion.
You can purchase spacers from Home Depot and you may need a small diamond hole saw drill bit for the shower nozzle.
I hope this info helps.
" Marshal trowel "What is that? Are you talking about Marshalltown?They are a manufactor and distributore. They have litterally hundreds of trowels for concete, drywall, plastering, and tile.http://www.marshalltown.com/catalog/default.asp
.
.
A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
I second that..using Kerdi. I used it for my own shower but it takes "more" than just a little extra time especially the firsttime you use it.
The presloped pan does speed things up though.
Also...I don't think there was any mention of using a vapor barrior behind your CBU (if you don't use Kerdi).
I found these two companies the best....also Home Depot carries it in a lot of their stores now.
http://www.tile-experts.com/products.asp?id=56
http://www.tileprotection.com/home.php?cat=24&gclid=CPCNzfv0y40CFQILPwodDCJlZg
how it sounds^-->http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2shskL0AYuE
http://WWW.CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
I forgot about mentioning a vapor barrier.
Good thing more than one person replies to these threads. LOL
I haven't tried the Kerdi system either. I haeven't done a bathroom in several years.
You getting anywhere with selling your house?
You getting anywhere with selling your house?<<Goes on the market (MLS) this Wed-Thurs.
Actually have it 99.99% finished. Katrina's cleaning it top to bottom for the virtual tour video they'll be coming to do this week for the listing.
Really does look incredable and I don't usually ever compliment myself (low self esteem issues...lol). Someone is gonna really get great house!
I don't have terribly high expectations being the market sucks so bad but it is a unique house so ya never know. If I don't get close to my asking price (2.150)I'll take it off the market around Thanksgiving till late in the spring of 08.
how it sounds^-->http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2shskL0AYuE
http://WWW.CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM
Good luck with selling it.
I hope the new owner appreciates all the hard work you put into that house.
muchas gracias compadre
how it sounds^-->http://www.youtube.com/watch?v=2shskL0AYuE
http://WWW.CLIFFORDRENOVATIONS.COM