I’m a new poster, been reading FHB for about a year. I’m a painter, not a builder, hence my dilemma.
Just closed on a house a couple months ago, and I have a problem with my concrete drive and garage.
The angle up of my driveway causes the car to drag horrifically when I try to enter the garage. My builders contract goes only through getting a certificate of occupancy, so hes off the hook for this, even though his sub did the work. The sub agreed (verbally) he would fill the mentioned area before pouring, but didn’t. Since I have no legal recourse after plunking down $6,500, I need help from the pros.
I need to bring the area in front of the garage up 3-4 inches, roughly 5’x9′. This will change the angle enough to get the car in without scraping.
I’ve dry-laid keystone pavers, and I think that will work, (correct me if I’m wrong, please).
What can I use to bond them to the concrete??? Concrete is broom finished. do you recommend pouring something else, like a formed pad, and sloping it to blend? someone mentioned an epoxy based concrete that will bond well, and trowel down to 1/8 inch without breaking. Anyone know what this is??
Thanks for the help.
PS My wife is pregnant, and if I don’t get this fixed, shes gonna kill herself trying to get out of the car on a slope. Shes at 5 months, so I figure I’ve got only another month or 2 at the most….;)
Littlefield
Replies
Why not just pour another 4" of concrete? I think you will have long term problems getting the pavers to stay in place unless there is a mechanical lock (not just glued or bonded) at the bottom.
You get one of the best bonds to old (even better to relatively fresh) concrete by vigourously wire brushing cement paste onto the existing concrete, then pouring the added layer with a low slump and finish to match. 5x9 by 4" is < 1/2 yard, rent a mixer. If you're a novice, buy the 80# premixed bags (I'm guessing about 20 bags -$40 here) mix really stiff and it will stay in place on the slope easily. Use a bag of topping mix to do the edge tapers.
Edited 5/12/2002 10:57:31 PM ET by JUNKHOUND
Thanks, thats exactly what I was looking for.
If I understand you right, just mix it stiff, don't bother forming anything??
I think the guys I asked were concerned somehow that the layer of concrete on top would not bond to the original, but I appreciate the advice on prepping the surface.
I'll get on this next weekend, thanks again.
Littlefield
Since your're going to try the method, if you happen to have a 7" or 9" angle grinder with a coarse cup wire brush (or can rent), that is really the "cat's meow" for a vigorous scrub-in of the cement paste, pressure washing first (or at least hosing any loose dirt off) also is a plus. You should put a couple of form boards along the sides of the drive to assure an even slope, makes the job easier also. Mix your paste about as thick as wheel bearing grease or vaseline, wet/soak the existing concrete before brushing the mix in, but no pooled water (probably not a problem on slope) .
If you have the equipment or want to rent even more stuff, what makes the job look pro is if you cut a kerf across the drive about 1/2" deep minimum ($2 masonry blade or $4 Harbor freight diamond blade in skill saw will do this) on both sides of where you fill and chip it out some ( old hammer an goggles will work) on the filled side, there will be no feathered edge to chip or spall off in the future; plus, since you will probably NOT get a perfect color match, there is a clean line. I used this method on a sidewalk 12 years ago and not even a crack yet.
Edited 5/13/2002 11:38:10 PM ET by JUNKHOUND