I’ve always taped them and simply floated the area with mud, but that is a lot of floating. In the back of my mind I keep thinking there must be a thin mesh or fabric that can be applied with a brush on substance that will keep a hairline crack from resurfacing, but require minimal work to smooth out.
Has anyone had good luck with the high $$ mesh products that are made for this?
For these situations (hairline cracks in otherwise flat walls and ceilings) I’ve wondered if tape can be attached to the already flat surface with something more high tech than mud to keep the thickness to a minimum.
Any other products that actually work?
Beer was created so carpenters wouldn’t rule the world.
Replies
i swear i'm going to invent a paper tape,with thin fiberglass mat on one side. almost like the packing tape you see,just to patch plaster cracks.
no matter what i try i have a 50/50 chance of success.
you know,maybe i should try packing tape,ever tried to tear the stuff,no way.couldn't be anymore than a 50% failure rate.
if a man speaks in the forest,and there's not a woman to hear him,is he still wrong?
saw that done with mudded over duct tape...
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
I have seen an aersol product at Lowes that is suppose to be thin elastameric that covers fine cracks.
I have not used it.
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
Real Plaster?
Fix it with real plaster.
Gently Scrape out the crack, blow it clean with compressed air and then wet it and scrub the area with a toothbrush.
Blow out again, then using a regular plaster mix use the tooth brush to force plaster into the crak, wipe the excess off each side of the crack. Let the new plaster set until almost hard then using care and a small damp rag wipe the surface of the crack down.
Cracks need to be damp , but not wet when the new plaster is forced into them.
"goodbye cracks" by the same people that make goof-off.http://ACE.imageg.net/graphics/product_images/pACE-1124786dt.jpg
Edited 10/9/2008 2:57 am ET by PGproject
that would be good for plumbers butt.
That is the stuff that I saw at Lowes.Have you used it?.
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A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.
Yes- seems to work, but the directions still say to "repair the crack as usual" before applying. Also, it's expensive for large areas, and if you spray a lot of it (on ceilings, especially), as I did recently, the overspray is a problem.I used it a couple of recurring cracks that have not reappeared since.I wonder about using "Red Gard" (brush-on elastomeric), but I think it would be difficult to get a smooth finish. What about using a thick coat of exterior elastomeric paint?Bill
Edited 10/9/2008 12:35 pm ET by PGproject
I've done quite a bit of plastering in the past, although I don't do as much now.
I once faced an entire mid 19th century farmhouse to replaster & mostly skim that had nothing but cracks...a million of 'em.
I had used the fiber mesh that comes in 3 & 4' roles before, and it works fine, but for this project would have cost a small fortune.
Instead I went down to the garden store and experimented with the gray ground mesh that you lay down in small flower & vegetable gardens. It was plenteous & cheap. I applied it with Plasterweld and a roller, which is a bonding agent for plaster. The mesh is very strong and provides good tooth for the skim. I lightly rolled on the weld after the mesh was up & dried (couple of hours, then went to work skimming.
That was 7 years ago and the house is totally crack-free.