Replies

1. 
   timkline | Mar 11, 2005 02:30am | #1

   are the doors stained and varnished or painted  ?

   how large is the affected area ?

    

   carpenter in transition

1. 
   kngfshr | Mar 11, 2005 05:02am | #2

   They are painted. The also face east with no shade for a good part of the mornings. The church is, more than likely, going to keep the same color on the door, a sort of dark dusty rose.

2. 
   kngfshr | Mar 11, 2005 05:04am | #3

   sorry, missed the last part of the question. The cracks are scattered across the doors. While the majority of each door is OK, the scattered nature worries me a bit.

1. 
   saulgood | Mar 11, 2005 04:32pm | #4

   the worse it is, the easier to fix. Usually this type of thing starts nearest the bottom, where the door gets the least protection from the elements. If possible, simply strip the top layer (skin) off the door -BTW remove door and use sawhorses- and sand down until you get to a sound and smooth substrate. You can then glue a new skin (they sell them at better lumber yards) to the top. Vacuum press is not needed, I've done veneering with Titebond II (make sure it's "II"-for exterior). roll the glue evenly onto both surfaces, and LET DRY. Then position the skin on the door and use an electric iron to slowly re heat the glue through the skin. Be thorough, and keep moving so it doesn't burn the wood. When you're done, trim carefully, then use a good quality primer and paint to seal the deal (don't forget top and bottom edges). This technique works best with thinner veneers. Good luck! p.s. dark paint doesn't fare as well as light colors on exterior trim - gets too hot in the sun. If you're staining, finish with a good UV resistant varnish.

1. 
   kngfshr | Mar 11, 2005 05:14pm | #5

   Saul,
   Thanks. I like the idea of using the Titebond - I think I read that the newer TiteBond III may be a better exterior glue, something to look into - and an iron. I never thought of this, basically creating your own iron on veneer. This is much better than a contact cement solution as I can position before adhering.As to the color choice, I told the trustee that a lighter color would be better, but he doesn't think they will change it.

1. 
   Frankie | Mar 11, 2005 06:28pm | #6

   I would try this method first. You can always resort to the reveneering method.Cracked veneer is okay and can stay. Any veneer that has peeled away or curled at its edges needs to be cut out. Take a utitity knife with a new blade and cut out the curls about a 1/4" back. Chisel off the veneer. Then fill the craters and cracks with Bondo. Be sure to press it against the crater and crack edges for a tight bond. Sand and paint.You may need a second application of Bondo. I prefer to do it in two layers so there is less to sand off when done. You WILL need a random orbit sander to sand the Bondo. Sanding by hand is futile. Don't even think about a belt sander.BTW - If you do decide to do the iron-on glue method, pay special attention not to cook the glue from over zealous ironing. This will make the glue worthless. When you apply the glue to the veneer, the glue will cause ther veneer to curl when drying. Major PITA. One way to limit this is to oversize the veneer patch and tape it down on all four sides to some sort of substate until dry. Prime door with an alkyd primer.F