Replies

1. 
   danno7x | Feb 23, 2009 05:44am | #1

   They make a bolt where one end is like a lag and the other is threaded like your bolts are.  Never thought too much of them but it may be your only option.  After cutting off the old ones flush obviously,  screw lag end into subfloor and bolt bowl down.

1. 
   Zadrunas | Feb 23, 2009 05:46am | #2

   Thanks danno.  Unfortunately I am working on a slab.  I guess I could drill it down and secure with epoxy?  What a mess.  I hate plumbing on a Sunday night.

2. 
   danno7x | Feb 23, 2009 05:47am | #3

   I missed set in concrete. YOu could use tapcons with a washer and silicone the plastic caps on over the tapcon heads. After getting it started I would tighten the tapcon by hand though so I would make sure to get the ones with 5/16 head not the phillips ones.

1. 
   Zadrunas | Feb 23, 2009 05:51am | #4

   Thanks again.  The major part of my problem is I can't figure out how to get the existing bolts removed from the flange.  Flange has just two holes with a bolt coming through each.  I think the head of the bolt is actually set in the concrete underneath the flange.  It's not set up quite like a closet flange.

2. 
   calvin | Feb 23, 2009 05:53am | #5

   New longer Johnny bolts, no?  The existing doesn't have regular johnny bolts with the eliptical head?  Fits in the larger opening on the flange-slides into position?

   A Great Place for Information, Comraderie, and a Sucker Punch.

   Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   http://www.quittintime.com/

    

1. 
   Zadrunas | Feb 23, 2009 06:01am | #6

   I've attached a pic.  Hopefully this helps!  House is about 45 years old.  Flange is now just 1/8" below tile surface.

1. 
   doowhat | Feb 23, 2009 06:09am | #7

   I had same problem when I tiled the bath floor. Lowes carries a extender plate that will use your existing bolts to secure the new plate to the old plate. Then you use new toilet bowl screws to secure the toilet to the new plate. Its made of PVC and is approximately 1/4 inch thick, same as a tile and it has a vinyl gasket to fit inside the plumbing pipe. Try it.

1. 
   Zadrunas | Feb 23, 2009 06:15am | #9

   Thanks!  I will check it out.  Lowes is not too close by, but if it solves this, it's worth the trip!

1. 
   Dam_inspector | Feb 23, 2009 06:16am | #11

   Plumbing supply houses would have them too. I wouldn't go out of my way to go to Lowes, but that's where I bought the last one myself.

2. 
   Dam_inspector | Feb 23, 2009 06:13am | #8

   That flange is not installed right. I'd cut the old bolts off and put an extension flange on top of it since it's now also too low. Tapcon the extension flange to the slab.

1. 
   Zadrunas | Feb 23, 2009 06:16am | #12

   Thanks!  I think I can manage that.  I'll tapcon in at 12 and 6 o'clock, correct?  (where it's currently filled w/ wax).  Between you and doowhat, I think the mystery is solved.  I'll try to post my results.

   Andy

1. 
   Dam_inspector | Feb 23, 2009 06:19am | #13

   Yes, that flange is a quarter turn from where it should be.

3. 
   Dam_inspector | Feb 23, 2009 06:15am | #10

   And there's a chance you can get some brass threaded rod and a coupler to make the old bolts work.

4. 
   splintergroupie | Feb 23, 2009 06:19am | #14

   Threaded connector with an extension? There are lots of kinds of 1/4" internally threaded lamps parts that would do it, or something like this:

   View Image

5. 
   danno7x | Feb 23, 2009 06:31am | #16

   Wow the flange is sideways.  With a good quality wax ring 1/8 below the surface isnt going to cause a leak.  some are defaniatly thicker and better than others.  

   If that isnt enough for ya, at one time I saw a riser type flange  I guess it could be a spacer flange too.  Here youll see what im talking about: 

   http://www.oatey.com/Plumber/Shared/ProductGroup/3/Flanges.html

3. 
   brucet9 | Feb 23, 2009 06:20am | #15

   Go to Ace Hardware and get a pair of "couplings" of appropriate thread size. I don't know the correct term for them, but they are aluminum rod threaded inside all the way through.

   Thread them onto the existing bolts and screw your brass flange bolts upside down into the couplings. Then you can cut the bolts to appropriate length. Don't forget to thread the nuts onto the flange bolts first so you can use them to dress the cut end threads as you spin them off.

   BruceT
4. 
   BoJangles | Feb 23, 2009 06:34am | #17

   Just head down to the nearest hardware store and buy a threaded connector.  It's just a long, skinny nut.  You might have to trim your existing bolts a little shorter so the coupler doesn't interfere with the hole in the toilet base.

1. 
   splintergroupie | Feb 23, 2009 07:14am | #18

   Forget the flange...why is the drain opening weird?

1. 
   PatchogPhil | Feb 23, 2009 07:27am | #19

   Possibly part of a very old decrepit wax ring? 

   Quantum materiae materietur marmota monax si marmota monax materiam possit materiari?

1. 
   splintergroupie | Feb 23, 2009 08:10am | #20

   i thought it looked like it could be one of those old lead flanges that got folded in...in which case i'd recommend orthopedics instead of cosmetic surgery.

2. 
   Zadrunas | Feb 24, 2009 04:02am | #21

   You got it!

5. 
   e4plumb | Feb 24, 2009 09:47am | #22

   I would take a metal grinder and cut small knotches out twords the side then slide the bolt out and slide a longer bolt in this way you can change again in the future.Some cast iron flanges come  with a small knoch that is samller than the closet bolt head.You may need to chip out so the bolt will slide in freely.then put a washe and nut on the flange to tighten and hold the bolt.extentions might stick up through the toilet.