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i am thinking of using a type of window, that has no nailing flange, and normally fit’s inside the RO. this is usually done in a concrete block house, but mine is going to be stick frame.
any suggestion’s on how to work this problem with regard to waterproofing and air tightness.
any help appreciated
good luck
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Replies
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Are you talking about "Block windows". if you are install the stucco mold insert, the windows shim, level/plumb and screw into the stucco mold. then caulk. If im understanding what your asking correctly.
*Eddie,Is the window wood or pvc?Gabe
*Gabe, the windows are pvc.why?
*Eddie,Sometimes pvc windows have a dovetail to add flanges and brickmolds, does yours have any kind of grove? If it doesn't, you can always weld an L mold around the perimeter and make your own flange. Use the same pvc glue used for piping and it will weld forever.Gabe
*Sounds like replacement windows.Contact the mfgr. and get some nailing flanges.They should just snap in.....or as Gabe said make your own.What type of siding are you going to install ? This would dictate what method of installation you would need if you don't want to go with nailing flanges.
*You can install them just like a replacement window. 2 screws in the upper part of the inside sash track and 2 in the lower outside track....in fact, if you look, there are probably holes already predilled there.....pop the sash stops...the little covers and look behind them for the holes. Use 3 inch galvanized deck screws.You can set the window any where you want in the RO...I set 'em flush with the outside sheathing if I'm putting up vinyl siding, and run the J channel over the window a 1/2" or so, then silcone the joint.Or you can install a 2x2 and cover with coil stock for a "brickmould" look if you want to fancy it up a bit.
*Gabe, there are no grooves in the windows, in ireland, most windows are set-up to go in block houses, so they get set in place then the plasterers plaster up to them on the outside and inside.then they add a line of caulk to seal in completely. and this work's. so a similar treatment with wood is what i'm looking for.there is no possiblility of adding nailing flanges-jerry.
*Eddie,Is the window narrower than the wall thickness?How much difference is there between the window dimensions and the rough openning?Sorry about the questions but I need to know this to suggest the best alternatives.Gabe
*eddie,If you are going to use a masonry style window, install it as you would a masonry style window. When you build a masonry wall, you use block in the window opening that has a groove in the end to set the wood buck. You can frame a buck. Masonry windows come with a face flange that is about 1/2" wider than the body of the window so it is a natural stop against the buck when installed from the outside. Then a few screws through the body of the frame and into the buck and you are installed. With masonry, a bead of caulk seals the flange to the block.You will need to frame to the tolerances normally natural with block, given the standard sizing of block, and your standard masonry window will fit right in. You can also have custom sizes built if you decide you want a wider or taller window than stock. Depending on your supplier that could be a little extra or a lot.You will need flashing wrap around your framing, but you knew that. The plasterers can then do their thing to the outside of the flange and you can then run the final bead of caulk to seal that to the window flange.Are Irish windows fabricated differently, compared to U.S.?
*absolutely Ralph, but we have access to american and canadian windows, but the cost's are through the roof.Gabe - the walls are 2*6 with 1/2" sheathing and shingles on the walls. the units come 4" deep.the R.O.'s are 1/2" bigger all around the window.thanks and good luck
*Not a lot of choice and you're using wood shingles.Install the windows flush with the outside sheathing. Use the standard installation with shims and screw through the frame. Add a drip flashing down the face of the sheathing all the way down to the bottom edge of the top window frame and a reverse drip edge.Use a low expanding single component foam and seal the gap completely.Trim the outside with wood and butt your shingles to it.Inside add a wooden extention around the entire prerimeter to be flush with your interior finish. A nice feature would be an extended window sill at the bottom for plants and such.Case as you would normally.It would have been nicer if you would have had more room between the window and the RO. This would have allowed you to box the window with 1/2 plywood first.Gabe
*it's a new build, not yet started. so i can expand the R.O. explain the other method you mentioned, please.
*Eddie,It's simply a box you make out of 1/2 or better GIS plywood to fit snuggly over the window. The box is the full width of the wall as opposed to the width of the existing window. You attach the window frame to the plywood frame over a healthy silicone bead. Then you nail all your trim to the plywood instead of the pvc window.Gabe