My mason is about to go through the roof with my chimney. He says he doesn’t want to do the flashing around it and will just leave grooves between the bricks for the roofer to connect the flashing. That’s the way he always does it, he says.
I am worried about how exactly the work will proceed after the mason is finished. Sometimes my roofer (competent and hardworking Jack of all Trades) proceeds pell mell without reading directions…. So what I need is a clear way to tell him what is needed to be done, and I need to know what materials to have on hand. It is very hard to get workers around here or I’d get someone else, so helping him along is the best I can do, I think.
The chimney is 32″ by 22″ (the 22′ is parallel with the ridge) and sets about 3 feet from the ridge.
Thank you for your help, Lavina
Replies
Will you also be repacing the roof at this time .or just flashing into the existing roof?
We would be flashing into the existing roof, which was put on this summer: 30 year, 3-tab asphalt shingles. Thank you. Lavina
Lavina,
The picture Gene put up is really good-the truly proper way to flash a chimney for no water intrusion.
The problem arises that most folks who shingle don't have the required tools and experience to perform this work skillfully. It's more in line with a sheet metal workers field of expertise. This isn't to say that there aren't roofers in your area who could perform this work,but your present roofer,by your description,doesn't appear to be this person.
Too bad you didn't rebuild the chimney prior to installation of the new roof.
These pics may help. I got them by Googling for "chimney flashing."
View Image
View Image
Edited 10/9/2006 10:07 am ET by Gene_Davis
Thanks for the pictures.
I don't think I have to have that "saddle" because the chimney is only 2' wide. Should I have it done anyway?
I don't understand about the grooves between the brick and how the flashing would be connected or what to ask for at the store.
Some things about building are beyond me and this is one.
Thanks, Lavina
The saddle, also called a cricket, is required to have the roof shed water around the uphill side of the chimney.
Print the pics, show them to your roofer, and ask him how he will do it.
The roofing is "step flashed" up the sides and he should know how to do that. The counterflashing in the chimney, going on last after all the other with-roof flash, has a hooked leg that pressfits into the "reglet" grooves in the chimney, between bricks. Those grooves are then stuffed with a good sealant.
This is important stuff, and there is a right way to do it. The pics show the right way. If your guy is clueless and wants to do something like, "I always do it my way," then get another guy.
Here is one pic from Mike Smith's long "Adverse Conditions" thread on the Photo Gallery section here. Go to that thread and go way back into it, and you can see the whole thing going together with closeup pics and how-to info. The flashings are all made on site from coil metal or flat sheets, measured, cut, and bent.
View ImageAnd if all that isn't enough, this link will take you to an excellent article on how it is done: http://www.rd.com/content/openContent.do?contentId=17758
Edited 10/9/2006 11:57 am ET by Gene_Davis
Edited 10/9/2006 12:17 pm ET by Gene_Davis
Gene, great drawing. Almost as good as the one you sent showing the B&B siding.
You're kidding, right? I cut and pasted them from a Rumford fireplace-building site. Look at that old yellowed paper.
How about a nice photo of one of those window exteriors, all detailed out, and integrated with the B&B siding?
Edited 10/9/2006 12:05 pm ET by Gene_Davis
There are some good, more-recent-though-not-better details step by step here:
http://www.apawood.org/bbh_roofs.cfm
If you are in a dry climate and/or a southern one, a 2' chimney can be flashed with no cricket, but only by an experienced hand.A better bet for you might be a sheet metal shop
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I'll see if I can do a drawing for you later. The idea of the grooves you are speaking of is the horizontral mortar joints between bricks get raked clean of mortar bach in about an inch. Then the counter flashing that you see in these photos on the vertical side of the chimney is fitted into them in a particular way.The top edge of the metal is haped into a sort of a J so the small leg is facing back out. Then rolled pieces of metal for keepers are fiotted tight into the gap to hold it, then the joint is filled with caulk or mortar. again, I'm trying to help but fear miscommmunication because this is something that is usually taught on the job demonstrating technique to the nivices. I'm still having a hard time imagining a roofer who does not know this billing himself out as a roofer. sorryI think Slateman has some more specific photos if my mewmory serves...
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Piffin makes a good point about perhaps not using a cricket,and just using a soldered "pan" above the chimney since you're reasonably close to the ridge.
He's also correct about an online "Shutterfly " album showing the steps involved in doing this procedure.
The one exception is the lead was already in place in this example,but the roof flashing is completely redone.
if you send me your e-mail address I'll send it out for you to look at.
Walter
Soooooo...THATS how ya do it! Kewl. LOL
I think the last one was about # 37 or 38.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
" If ya plan to face tomorrow, do it soon"
My first one, done using lead sheet (I was the mud mixer, hod carrier, and rooftop helper), we did in 1959.
It is not how many one has done, but whether those done were done right.
The thread originator here, needed some advice so she be informed in order to best direct her hacks, who, as she described them, seemed to be clueless about this very basic construction technique.
Yeah, I read the bad news, sounds like both the mason and the roofer need some face to face time.
Believe me I did plenty wrong in my time, and flashing was something where I just copied what worked.
Not until I started subbing to Grant did I learn the copper method. Prior to that all I had experience with was alum. steps and lead counters.
Funny, thats how I hooked up with Grant, I had just bought the house and wanted lead for the chimney chase I built, we got to talking, and the rest is history going into our 3rd year together.
I do hope the OP gets a decent job outta one of them, but thru flashing wasn't even mentioned I don't think, just grooves for counters, which like Grant said, I'd rather cut out my own, where they are needed and end them where they are supposed to end.
I use the reglet itself as a guide to grind out the joint, if the mason has no metal in hand, I don't see how he can guesstimate where to make his grooves. And my diamond wheel cuts a kerf a lot less wide than his joint rake, I bet.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
" If ya plan to face tomorrow, do it soon"
Lavina,
First thing, I have to get off my chest - If this guy _ not the mason - has to be told how to flash a chimney, he is not a roofer, he is a novice shingle layer at best. It is possible he does not have the rudimentary skills to flash the chimney.
While you all figuree it out, the best first thing to do after the mason has washed his work and it dries, is to use a roll of vycor about 8" wide, folded lengthwise in half to temporarily seal the gap. start wwith the base, then the sides, then the top. leaving a 4" flap to cut and fold around the corners. If it is slow to stick at the masonry, a hair dryer can help warm it up good.
now then, what size is the chimney? Is there a cricket built behind it?
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paul.... this is even worse .. if you go back and read it..it's not the roofer who's the real problem..it's the mason
<<My mason is about to go through the roof with my chimney. He says he doesn't want to do the flashing around it and will just leave grooves between the bricks for the roofer to connect the flashing. That's the way he always does it, he says.>>
first of all ... anyone building a chimney should be able to install the basic flashing.. they may not have the skill for a thru-flash but they can certainly do a step flash / counter-flash
it also depends on the area of the country she lives in.. what is the common flashing
in our area , common flashing would be lead..
in most areas , common flashing would be aluminum
an upgrade would be copper and the best would be a copper thru-flash
this is a dinky chimney... the mason should be installing the flashing and the roofer can then come back and patch in the shingles and install the steps and counterflash
i would defintely install a cricket too
this dufus mason is going to leave out the flashing all-together
sure is nice of him to leave the mortar out of the joints so at least that step can be saved
of course... both trades are normally cross-trained in this .. the mason should be installing the flashing and patching the roof.... and any decent roofer should also be able to install the flashing.... without directions
sounds like lavina is dealing with either sharks or incompetents
Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Edited 10/9/2006 4:33 pm ET by MikeSmith
When I was in the south, I never saw a mason install the flashing, so that does not suprise me, but you are right, it is a piece of cake for the mason to lay in lead as he goes. They all do it that way here too.
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I have never, ever seen a mason around here do any flashing. I've also seen very few chimneys in these parts flashed with lead or aluminum. The metal of choice used to be terne and occasionally galvanized. Now, you seldom see anything but copper used. When we thru flash, we have to co-ordinate the process with the mason. Leaving the mortar out is a joke, 'cause they never leave it out in the right place. I'd rather they fill the joints and we'll grind 'em where we want 'em.
"Let's go to Memphis in the meantime, baby" - John Hiatt.
http://grantlogan.net/
I have never in all the places I worked seen any AL flashing on a chimney. When I started and learned the ropes in Florida, we used a lot of 24GA galvanized. I think half or more of what we used out west was too. I wonder if Mike meant coil stock prepainted?
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>>>>>I wonder if Mike meant coil stock prepainted?I'm sure he did, but that's still aluminum. Every now and then, you'll see a beginner flashing job done with mill finish aluminum that was purchased at the big box. I see some chases that get flashed by the siding guys, but mostly nobody wants to flash except the flashers. I've got two guys that spend 90% of their time flashing. We've got several shingle crews that don't flash that we follow around.
"Let's go to Memphis in the meantime, baby" - John Hiatt.
http://grantlogan.net/
Real young guys too, I'll bet!Age of specialization. Can't have that on an island. Gotta have a basket full of hats
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>>>>>>>Gotta have a basket full of hatsYeah - my grandfather and a helper built houses. The two of them did everything - no subs. I used to work for a restoration company. There were eight of us when I was hired. Plumbing, electrical, and major masonry were subbed. Everything else was done in house. Plaster one day, framing the next. Flashing a chimney the day after that and so on. It never got boring.
"Let's go to Memphis in the meantime, baby" - John Hiatt.
http://grantlogan.net/
Around here, about all I see is aluminum chimney flashing. Occasionally copper.
It may not be perfect, but it does seem to last the life of a roof .
But we don't have to deal with the salt air that you do.
But the flashing oughta last as long as the house, not just the rooof.BTW, your acids rain is hard on AL too
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It's the same here-most masons install lead as counterflashing while laying up the brickwork-but they don't have the tools or skills to do sheetmetal work that is required for a large penetration to be watertight.
It was always two trades-masons and roofers/metal workers.
I agree also that aluminum makes terrible flashing-can't be soldered,etc.
>>>>>>>>most masons install lead as counterflashing while laying up the brickworkThey don't do that here - no flashing what so ever.
"Let's go to Memphis in the meantime, baby" - John Hiatt.
http://grantlogan.net/
" ... but I do get a comment now and then about reading too much. "
The proper come back for that comment is, "I buys ya books, and buys ya books, and all you do is look at the dirty pictures..." LOL
I won't tell you what the improper come-back is, it wouldn't be proper...you being a lady and all.
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Lavina,
ABC Supply sells flashing kits that look perfect for a rookie.
Here's one. http://www.abccatalog.com/store/viewitem.asp?idproduct=0150001229
KK
Thanks for the info on the rookie kit at ABC. Apparently there's a store not too far--about 40 miles from me, which is par for the course around here. I am going to check it out.
I was wondering about the aluminum--I thought aluminum corrodes in contact with concrete? Which flashing weathers so you don't notice it so much around a grayish brick chimney, with medium gray roof, or am I being too picky? I guess so. Just so it lasts and keeps the rain out.
aluminum would not be my choice....BUT.. it is used a lot.. i've seen it in many areas , and it always struck me as odd... why use aluminum when lead is so much easier to work with ?
but, it is used
i don't understand why your mason won't lay in the flashing as he goes
Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
i don't understand why your mason won't lay in the flashing as he goes
I've never seen a mason with a piece of flashing in his hands either Mike. Masons do masonry, roofers do flashings. I don't think the unions would allow any else.
blueOur Skytrak is for sale. It has 500 hrs on it. We want 50k (you pay the freight) and we'll finance it. Drop me an email; it's a good buy.
definitely a regional thing.. here, if a mason is on the roof , he installs the let-in counter-flashing..
the roofer installs the steps and weaves his roofing
either one can, and usuually is qualified to, flash the chimney
here it is all lead and a little copper..
get 100 miles south in CT and you will start to see a lot of aluminum
when chimneys get repointed they often get totally new or partial replacement of the flashings..
no roofer is going to repoint the chimey.. so it will usually be either one on the flashings
now.. if it's a thru-flash, it will be a tin-knocker installing the flashingMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Mike,
Are you going to post thru flash pics on the cedar roof thread?
Walter
you bet... right now that area has a blue tarp on it .. so no pics yet..
the thru-flash is done, but there are no shingles around itMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Thought some folks might like to see a chimney flashing job on slate roof-where the mason had already installed the lead counterflashing.
I don't think that other link worked ,I'm going to try this again.http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=8cbsmrhqzYY¬ag=1
If you hit the" select all "tab then view as slideshow you can view the progression of the work being done.
Here's another illustrating a thru flashing job with red cedar shingles.
http://share.shutterfly.com/action/welcome?sid=8cbsmrhqzWg
Hey Mike, isn't Connecticut west of you?Let me save you some trouble..."Bite ..."
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>>>>>>Thanks for the info on the rookie kit at ABC.Better call 'em before you drive. I'd be surprised if they carry that in stock. They got lots of stuff in the catalogs, but a pretty limited selection in stock at the stores. They can get it in pretty quick. Their main business is selling roofing products (shingles, epdm, etc.). Most roofers make their own flashings and my ABC discourages homeowners since they're wholesale only.
"Let's go to Memphis in the meantime, baby" - John Hiatt.
http://grantlogan.net/
huddledmass.. said to google on this dmr gutter site
what a trip.. the guy really lays it all out on the line
anyways there is an excellent pic ( hundreds of excellent pics ) of a copper chimney flash
http://dmr-gutters.com/pg/fs/FScgutters.htmMike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Yeah - he got run off from here for spamming and he's gotten run off of several other roofer's forums for the same offence. I'm just bummed out 'cause I didn't get invited to the "Vampire Ball".Best as I can tell, he just uses a portable brake and hand tools. Fairly impressive work, but a strange cat. Check his wife's website out. Get's even stranger.
"Let's go to Memphis in the meantime, baby" - John Hiatt.
http://grantlogan.net/
http://copper-by-design.com/pg/chimney/tn/Stakely45.jpgif he had done this for me at $625, I would ask him when he was gonna finish the job. I'd be embarrassed to do that job let alone charge like that for it or put it online to brag about
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>>>>>>>I would ask him when he was gonna finish the job.I was assuming that was an "in progress" pic. Plus, that's about a $350 flashing job. I guess he's making up for all the jobs he whines about that he lost $ on.
"Let's go to Memphis in the meantime, baby" - John Hiatt.
http://grantlogan.net/
Yeah, especially when they have it available in so many different pitches! It would be a nighhtmare stocking that kind of item when your primary customer base - professionals - would be making their own.but I bet she could order it online from them and have it delivered.I just don't see it as a good way to get it done, but if her labor force is halfway conscientious, maybe.
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>>>>>especially when they have it available in so many different pitches! Look at it again. The flashing kit just caulks to the face. It's not let in in any way. It's a one size fits all as long as it 32" sq or less.
"Let's go to Memphis in the meantime, baby" - John Hiatt.
http://grantlogan.net/
Hey, while I got ya...we need a doo dad to use my 10'' pulley to lower all these bricks down..you have something like that? A stand off or arm for the scaffold?
And, want a play -by -play of pics for this one? You can even pick the title, and i won't waste time taking too many pics, just what needs showing, like how these bricks are smushed between the two plates and the lookouts are gone, not just rotted, G-O-N-E.
We got the lumber this afternoon, tore out about 30 some feet and dried in real well, I bought a ( shhhhhh,harbor feight,) 10 slider saw for 99.00, gonna leave it up on the scaffold for the duration, if it lives that long.
Rain tomorrow=work at Dales if you have nuthing else, finish yer rack and then plumbing that bathroom and wire it up too.
Lemme know.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
" If ya plan to face tomorrow, do it soon"
>>>>>we need a doo dad to use my 10'' pulley to lower all these bricks down.All of what bricks? Do you all really have to take out everything between plates? Is the brick out of plumb? I'm probably gonna have to get a change order if you've got to do this to the whole house or get A&D's carpenters to do it from the inside. I've got that electric hoist to drop the bricks or we can get a pulley boom that hooks to the scaffold.Take lots of pics - this is a weird situation, but about the 5th or 6th time I've seen it.
"Let's go to Memphis in the meantime, baby" - John Hiatt.
http://grantlogan.net/
Pulley boom, not the hoist. gonna tie a bucket in the middle of the rope, and ground guy (Mikey, being as he is herniated and getting cut to fix it) can both raise and lower.
The bricke between the wall plate and the rafter plate are 60% crumbled ( SO FAR) and where the lookouts jutted are all fallen down behind the metal cornice in bits.
We plan to make little crippple walls and wail them in place to attach the lookouts to, and in places R&R the lower plate with 2x10 as well. This not pretty up there. Just getting the debris of those salmon bricks which run both across the width and along, is added trouble, but we have to , to attach new lookouts to solid.
I don't think getting inside will help, the joists run from Broadway to Jefferson across the house, all that angled stuff is just cantileverd off the wall top plate and was bricked infilled ABOVE( and inbetween) to hold the level to where the load was bearing on the rafter attachment plate, see- saw if you will.
Remember my old place , DAle says it is worse than that was.
Ideally, we need to get the weight of the crap out from behind the metal cornice, it is blowing out the joints.
Thats why we requested a dumpster, we have a ton of debris, and handling it over and over just fluffs it up and makes more.
Pics wil be a daily. This is awesome.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
" If ya plan to face tomorrow, do it soon"
>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>Remember my old place , DAle says it is worse than that was.I didn't work on that house - that was Dale's baby.>>>>>>>>>>>>>>>we have a ton of debris, and handling it over and over just fluffs it up and makes more.I didn't understand about the brick- I thought you just had liner trash. I'll get the trailer over there.>>>>>>>>>>>>Pics wil be a daily. This is awesome.Yeah, this one ought to interest some people.
"Let's go to Memphis in the meantime, baby" - John Hiatt.
http://grantlogan.net/
Not today.
I'll do a fire wood run with the big truck, then go be a plumber and ele. Maybe we'll get the welding done on yer copper rack, I'd rather stay home. Sore as hell from yesterdays foray.
I'll beep ya later.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
" If ya plan to face tomorrow, do it soon"
I hadn't noticed that about no counterflashjing included. I assumed the base apron would be longer so you could and joint left and right corners and lap in the middle, but I couldn't see how they could sell a "one size fits all" cricket or top flashing to fit right..That guy seems to be mostly a CU gutterman. That is the only chimney flashing on the site that I saw and there were other things - minor ones - that would have done a roof more harm than good.He is a weiner isn't he?But some of the house he works on weere pretty
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>>>>>>>>>>>>I couldn't see how they could sell a "one size fits all" cricket or top flashing to fit right..There is a "counter" flashing - it's a 4" or so wide strip that tapcons to the brick and gets caulked to the face rather than let into a kerf. Anybody can flash a chimney. I think the "cricket" piece is just a flat back pan. >>>>>>>>>>>That guy seems to be mostly a CU gutterman.He's got another site where he shows bay roofs and chimney caps, etc he's done. It rambles on and on about how he constantly looses his butt on every job, his religious history, and has lots of pictures of him and his wife at every formal affair they've ever been to. It took him about 6 hours one Saturday recently to get run away from here by sysop. He came in with a full court press spam attack. He's done that before on other forums I sometimes check out. I get a big kick out of his Subaru work truck.
"Let's go to Memphis in the meantime, baby" - John Hiatt.
http://grantlogan.net/
Sounds like I missed out on that partynot that life has been boring lately
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Lavina,
I read this post a couple days ago when there were only 6-7 responses--------I couldn't respond then as my 9 year old keyboard died on me LOL
In the mean time you have got a lot of good,and some conflicting advice.
Genes' diagram was good-----probably every roofing book I own has one like it pictured------------but that method is not a requirement.
In the last 20 years or so I would guess that I have worked on( in one capacity or another) more than 2,000---but less than 3,000 roofs.
probably less than 20 had a cricket.I don't think I have run into one this year at all. It is certainly not needed for a chimney 24"wide in my climate (NE ohio).
chimney flashing is largely a regional thing---methods and materials. Here---I have NEVER seen lead used. Very rarely copper. We did 3 chimneys in copper this year---last year none---the year before 1. I don't think i have ever encountered through flashing----nor would i trust flashing installed by a mason.( they won't do it anyway LOL)
Most of the houses we work on are pre-WWII----- most commonly from 1920's----painted galvanized sheet iron originally.In General---when we replace a roof we replace ALL flashing---sidewall step flashing,soil stacks,chimney etc.
aluminum is what we use------and what EVERYONE else in this area uses. DO not fear aluminum to mortar contact---if the mortar is set up. If the mortar is wet----then you might have a concern.
Personally----on a new chimney I would prefer to grind my own reglets with a diamond blade. I can get a very straight---very thin kerf---and by slightly overbending the counter flashing return it will be "self wedging to a large degree within the thin kerf.
Ordinarily--I would shingle up to within a few courses of the bottom of the chimney.--- since we have icegaurd now( wasn't always the case)---I would wrap the chimney in icegaurd with the bottom pan of icegaurd spilling back out onto the top half of the shingles.
the critical area on chimney flashing is the 2 back corners. On a chimney exactly 24" wide---in this area I would bend a back pan exactly 32" wide with a 4" upturn. this would cover the 24" wide chimney and have a 4"X4" Ear protruding beyond each corner. I want those "ears symetrical( 4x4,5x5 etc.) Then I bend the "ears "down into a little triangle forming a roof over each back corner. This way any water collected behind the chimney will drop free and downhill 4" away from the side of the chimney.
the step flashing on the sides of the chimney will have been formed similarly---but on a reduced scale at the front corners. There is no solder necissary for this---even in copper-----and the few copper chimneys I have encountered had no solder either.
unlike in a gutter----here gravity is your friend LOL.
BTW----formerly we used painted aluminum coil stock------but I have noticed it is getting thinner and thinner.for chimneys---I now buy un- bent aluminum W valley flashing which is much heavier, stiffer, and better to work with.
also ,BTW-----I don't think your existing "roofer" is the guy for you. With all due respect--------you don't realy know more about this than your roofer does--------I can't EVER imagine taking suggestions or guidance from a homeowner on flashing a chimney.If I am going to flash a chimney and be responsible for it---it's going to be done MY way----the way I have done it hundreds and hundreds of times without fail.
If I do it YOUR way( the customers)--and it fails---it's still my Rep on the line---and the customer ALWAYS forgets that things were done HIS way. LOL
Very best wishes to you,
Stephen
Stephen,
Have you got a picture of your back corner detail? I don't quite follow how you fold the "ears" and then cover them with your counterflashing.
Thanks, Walter
Walter,
I just spent 20 minutes typing a rather long answer/description---- clicked on Post------and got"this page no longer available."
In short--- bought digital camera in august
collecting pictures
might have relevant detail--not sure
currently incompetent to post pictures here---LOL
Eventually-------if I whine long enough---some kind soul here will give me IDIOT proof step by step instructions( I really mean idiot proof!) on how to post pictures here.
short of that----- in December I hope to have one of my sons( "tech support LOL")---help me post a folder full of stuff I am collecting
Usually I make the counter flashing on a 24" chimney about 26-27" wide, over bend the corners so that an inch or so wraps TIGHT around the corner. counter flashing is 1 brick course higher than pan---- I usually run it straight down the corner to the ear---and then scribe it to flare out with the ear.
most bends on ground with siding brake. Like to use a little hand seamer on the roof for tight corner fit.
hope this posts,
Stephen
"some kind soul here will give me IDIOT proof step by step instructions( I really mean idiot proof!) on how to post pictures here."Are the pics on your computer hard drive already??Rich BeckmanAnother day, another tool.
some are----some are still "inside the camera" LOL
son #2 occasionally does some kind of voodoo for me and cleans out the camera and crams 'em into a couple of folders in the computer.
On the big 14/12 job---he made 8 discs so I could give copies to the guysworking on the job.---hopefull 20 years from now when the guys are as old as I am NOW---they will be able to show actual pictures to THEIR kids---of what THEY did when they were 25 or so.
my kids seem to think I was ALWAYS old,bald and fat LOL
Stephen
Email me at [email protected] gimme a phone number to call ya...I'll explain how to embedd or attach as an openable click to view...here all day.
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
" If ya plan to face tomorrow, do it soon"
Well, if the pic is on your computer, it is pretty easy.If you look below the box you type posts into you will see five boxes. They are labeled "Post" "Preview" "Spell Check" "Attach Files" and "Cancel"Click on "Attach Files". This should open up a separate window that has the following
Upload a file for attachment to the message
If you press Browse, be sure to select Files of Type: All Files from the resulting dialog box or you won't see any graphic files.1. Enter Filename to upload: 2. Now press 3. If you are done attaching file(s), press
Right after "1. Enter Filename to upload:" should be a box that says "Choose". Click it.This should open yet another window that is a file management window (just like you get when you click "save as" in almost any program). Work your way through the folders of your hard drive to where the pic is stored. If the pic isn't listed, make sure that the "file type" line lists "all files".Once you see the pic, click on it. That should put the file name into the "file name" line. Then click on "Open".The window will close and you are back to the first window. The file you clicked on will now be listed in the text box after "1. Enter file name to upload:" The full path will be given, so what is visible might be different than the file name.Now click on the box that says "[upload]" in the next line ("2. Now press [upload]Now the tricky part. Wait. Be patient. When the upload is complete, the box will refresh and the file you just uploaded will be listed at the top. Until that is done, the file isn't uploaded.After the file is uploaded you can upload another one. Once you are done uploading go to the third line "3. If you are done attaching file(s), press [done]" and click "done"The window will close and you are back to the window that you type the post into. Finish the post if it isn't already done and click on "Post".And let it load just like always.Or call Sphere.Rich BeckmanAnother day, another tool.
rich,
luka once gave me directions---which i no longer have. I managed to post pictures here once---from a disc a customer gave me.----a year or two later I was un-able to manage the same thing.
I thank you for your directions---really---but hey look WAY complicated for me. Pretty sure NORAD would end up nuking the white house If I attempted it.
Later I will get one or the other son to walk me through your directions with baby steps
( member I said idiot proof--you assumed way more computer literacy than i posess. LOL
thanks again,
Stephen
Hey, steve, If my wife can learn it, you can too!Can always tell when winter is looming. You and David MAson come in out of the cold and start having time to post again!Good post there, BTW, not that I agree with using AL. But this whole thread is a great example of regional differencs and different methods that all work.
Welcome to the Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime. where ... Excellence is its own reward!
actually piffen,
I was gone 'cause Taunton cancelled my account---and told me to re-register---then wouldn't let me re-register---for like 6-8 months.
I finally got around to whining to Taunton enough that they re-registered me and let me back into the sandbox.
Regaurding the computer--- i am a book person---not a computer/tool person. so I tend to use the computer like a book,a library.-- If it wasn't for Breaktime--- i would never touch a computer. Graphically---I just don't care for the layout of web sites or the way info. is presented.
It's just a matter of what i am intersted in.----- finally got a chance to start playing with a ryoba-noko( japanese saw) and start cutting joints with it the last couple days.
much more fun,much faster,and comparable accuracy to the router& jig system I was working on previously----at 1/4 the price. I will put a lot of time and effort into what i am interested in----but the computer---virtually no interest.
stephen
Stephen, thank you for that very informative explanation. I'm glad to know I don't have to compare different materials. Tomorrow I'm going to take the trip to buy the stuff. Plus I'm going to try to find some rustic looking slate to put on the hearth which got poured yesterday.
Things are looking up.
Thanks, Lavina