Hello all- I’m building a small shed for bicycles next a garage sided with T1-11 plywood. The shed roof slopes down along the garage, so I’m using step flashing for each course of roof shingles, with the flashing under the siding and the siding cut about an inch above the roof surface to prevent water wicking up into the plywood. But what’s the right way to finish up the flashing detail at the bottom of the roof slope where the garage wall continues? It seems there will be an exposed edge and a path for water to get under the siding. The shed roof will have a gutter that also ends against the garage wall. This project is in Virginia (Washington DC suburbs) and there is also the possibility of snow piling up at the roof-wall junction and possibly melting into a bad joint.
Thanks in advance!
Replies
Separate piece first as a kicker to divert water out at battom. You are right to be concerned about this item. A lot of the rot in EIFS homes has come from bad falshing details providing an entry point for water.
Thanks- I haven't seen a roof like this yet, (never thought I'd be doing one!) so that is very helpful. If I understand it, the bottom (first) piece of flashing should have a bend or small box shape so water running down the wall-roof junction is sent into the gutter, and then the regular step flashing up the rest of the roof goes over it. We need to re-side the garage too, so we'll have access. The original siding is 30 years old, only 3/8 thick, and on the south side. It's ready for replacement.
That's one of the trickier details to flash. You might want to actually add a piece to the lower end of your lowest step shingle that will divert the water, not just put a bend in it. This would be easier to draw than it is to describe.
I read somewhere once that the trick to successful flashing is to think like a drop of water.
Is there a good reference book to see this sketched out?
I thiunk FHB had an article on flashings not long ago - maybe it was JLCExcellence is its own reward!
Thanks- FHB had one on flashing brick walls, and one on windows, but not one on roof-to-wall joints- It's probably so basic that I'm the only one who doesn't know the right answer! I just subscribed to JLC.
The easiest way to make the "kicker " flash is with some sheet lead, shape it so it goes above the T-1-11 and under the first step flash.. the lead can be painted to match the T1-11...Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
I have a 1and half story that has three places as bubblehog described. Step flashing was used on the roof to the wall joint but nothing was used differently at the bottom where the gutter and the wall/roof is. At one location a kitchen window is right below that area and after alot of rain this past spring water came pouring in at the bottom casing around the window onto the kitchen counter top. After investigating outside that whole area of western cedar siding was rotted. No telling what condition the inside wall, studs etc. are in. So when I reroof I need to address that. I can understand what Mike Smith had to say and his lead sheet flashing can be covered with a trim board for looks. But I don't see how it can be totally flashed waterproof without depending some on silicone caulk on the backside of the flashing that is over the siding. By the way the article on wall flashing in the FHB magazine did not address this situation. I guess if a true way of doing it has been stated so far I (and I think bubblehog) am not getting it. It is definitely a s####y area to try to dry out. Any further expanations are appreciated. Tony
Tony, this is something that you'd have to see a drawing or better yet, a picture of the finished product, to understand. Ideally there's something in print of the step by step method but I'm not aware of it. Maybe Mike can pull over at one of his jobs and post a pic here. I'm sure you'd grasp it.
As an aside, only once have I seen a reroof done properly using that kick flashing. A guy could make a killing just going around a development (after 8-10 years) and dealing with this often forgotten detail. This past summer I did see a new house where the roofer left some loose flashing at every wall/roof juncture so the siding guy could (and did) bend and place it accordingly.
Maybe Andy Engle has a "Tip" laying around the magazine that shows it. Or better yet, ask Shazlett here on the board.__________________________________________
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/
Thanks for your interest. I sure would like to get a picture of it in my head. I did see in the last issue of FHB on vinyl siding how they slit the siding and run the J channel through it but step flashing and thick siding are a little diff. I will be out of town for the next couple days starting now so I won't be able to respond but thanks for any other comments. I feel when it gets to that point when I reroof, I'll figure it out , I usuallly do. Tony
Thanks for the help- I asked the original question, and I plan to try the library for a roofing book that may show how to do this right.
Way to go. If you get this detail right you'll have gone farther than many run of the mill roofers. I think that with vinyl, tho the siding can't rot, the job of proper flashing is actually harder. There are many points of water entry in most vinyl installations. Diverting things you can't see has got to be harder. Best of luck.__________________________________________
Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
http://www.quittintime.com/