Replies

1. 
   Piffin | Nov 30, 2002 09:52pm | #1

   One way would be to set the flange to the outside of the boards, then use 5/4" boards for trimming it out ( or use 3/4" trim and then use 1/2"or less battens). Caulk the trim to the flange as you install it. At the head trim, use a bead of caulk at the top too, and then caulk at the outside of that joint.

   A lot depends on your climate and the amt. of overhang you have on the roof - in other words, how much water is likely to hit it. If the windows are pretty much right out in the stream of rain, I would recess further back into the wall with the flange on the sheathing to water proof traditionally and use a very thick trim.

   .

   Excellence is its own reward!

   "The first rule is to keep an untroubled spirit.

   The second is to look things in the face and know them for what they are."

   --Marcus Aurelius

2. 
   DavidxDoud | Dec 01, 2002 12:19am | #2

   I don't like horizontal trim with B&B - a scheme that negates the strength of the design by giving water a place to get between wood surfaces at the bottom of a watershed,  cross grain movement between board and trim guarentees caulk failure eventually - if under a sheltering eve,  you can get by with it,  secure flashing to furring behind board -

   a suggestion:  set the the window frame first (actually,  flash under the window and then set)  so that it will end up even with the outside of the board, nail a board up on either side of the window, attach flashing to furring/nailers over window,  rip/space boards to fill space above window leaving them to die slightly above the flashing with a 45* drip cut at the bottom -  use battens to trim from board to window at the sides,  batten above window with battens also drip cut at the bottom @ 45* (these should extend below the drip edge as tho the 45* of the boards were extended with the battens)

   a nice minimalist scheme that uses the strength of the componets to shed water -