Replies

1. 
   Matt | Jul 26, 2008 09:01pm | #1

   As depressing as it sounds - caulk.  Even if you do a really nice job of breaking some metal - it will still have to be caulked to the brick at a vertical seam.   Go for some polyurethane or some other high tech caulk like OSI Quad.

1. 
   ben047 | Jul 27, 2008 12:10am | #2

   Thanks, Matt. My preference would be to place metal flashing on the stud next to the brick and caulk it to the brick then bend the flashing back over the OSB. With Tyvek over that. I think I can get away with aluminum flashing since the brick wall has been in place for 40 years.

1. 
   Matt | Jul 27, 2008 12:58am | #3

   Maybe if it's painted aluminum.  There are chemicals in the cement component of the mortar that corrode aluminum.  Really though, I'd use galvanized metal or something else.  You can get some pre-bent roof flashings that would probably work well.  Here, they now sell vinyl flashing at blowes that might be perfect for this application.  Cheaper than Gal metal too and you can install it with a stapler - comes in rolls.  The metal might be petter though just to create a rigid corner against the masonry.  The other thing is that the stud that is against the brick should probably be PT lumber - doubling the need for something better than aluminum.

1. 
   ben047 | Jul 27, 2008 02:01am | #4

   Matt--
   Good idea on the vinyl flashing. Ill check it out.Ben

2. 
   BillHartmann | Jul 27, 2008 04:26am | #5

   Is this a brick veneer wall?

   I am assuming that the new stud wall is perpendicular to the brick wall.

   If so then are you going to have tie the w parts together.

   As I see it you can either cut back the brick and tie to the old framing.

   Or leave it the end of the new wall floating. In that case you need something between the studs and bricks that form an expansion joint.

   Possibly keep it gap of about 1/2". Then put in backerrod and caulk. Or fill with expansing foam. But that is an for air sealing. Not as a weather seal.

   For the weather seal I would put in L flashing nailed to the new sheathing and caulked to the brick. the new part covered by the felt.

   But I wonder about adding some "counter flashing". I know that this is done on horizontal flashing. But I wonder aobut doing it for vertical flashing.

   It would help keep the weather off the primary flashing so that any separation of the caulk would be sheilded.

   However, major opening of the caulked joint won't be observed.

   Note - I am not a builder, but bringing this up for discussion.

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   A-holes. Hey every group has to have one. And I have been elected to be the one. I should make that my tagline.