We have a 1910 vintage building with sawn cedar shingle siding. The shingles are applied over red rosin paper. We are going to replace the shingle siding with new cedar shingles, and wonder how to best flash the joint between the shingles and the trim around the windows. We will probably be using Tyvek under the new shingles. As the windows in question are fixed sash stained glass, I want to disturb them as little as possible. Any help would be very much appreciated.
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Replies
I would use water and ice shield--the kind that is sticky and you remove a backing sheet and stick the membrane down. I think they even make something specifically for this purpose (flashing) now. I was thinking that the less hammering you do, the better, as far as the windows are concerned.
You're better off using regular old fashioned tar paper under cedar shingles.
The oils in the cedar will eat away at Tyvek.
Use 15# only if you're going to get the shingles up pretty quick. Otherwise use 30#.
As far as flashing the joint between the window and siding, I'd try to pry the casings out just a little, and slide the tar paper under the casing. Maybe slip a long metal recip saw blade under the casings to cut the nails.
I'd also use wood and metal drip edge on the window head, and run the paper over that.
Thats what I was gonna say about prying them out a little, but I had no idea about the tyvek and cedar. Is it a big problem or one of those minor things that seperates the better contractors from the rest. I have put them up over a tyvek like product but not the name brand.
I think it was typar? That type of stuff is why I come here because I love to get the best information like that.
typar is a different product than tyvek, from what I have read it is not a problem using this with cedar. That being said I would still use tarpaper, sometimes the old method is best.
Nice picture in the post on flashing!
Thanks to all for the replies. 30# felt paper it is, and Vycor flashing. We will be using white cedar shingles. Hope to find a good oil base dark brown stain. Thanks again.
Use 30# building paper, not Tyvek.
Copper (white cedar only) or lead-coated copper caps on wood cap molding (assumed).
Use Grace Vycor to lap from the 30# just onto (1/8") the window casing on sides. Vycor over copper cap flange. Leave existing flashing exposed under sill (do not tape over).
See notes in attachment.
Jeff
Edited 6/18/2008 12:09 am ET by Jeff_Clarke