Flashing new window in old walls
BillHartmann
| Posted in Construction Techniques on
I have been asked to install 2 new windows (new holes, not replacement) in a house. I am not sure if this is a job that I want to do or not.
I am conformatable with the framing and inside details.
The problem is that the siding is vertical sheets. Not sure of the details, it might be T-111 or “board and batten” with the board being hardboard siding. The house was built in the 80’s I am guessing.
The problem is how do you weather proof an installation like this.
And what type of window would you use?
One though would be to use windows with intergal brick mold and caulk the sh*t behing the brick molding and the siding.
But I don’t like the idea of that, but I don’t know what other optiosn there are.
Replies
peel the siding and install a "new" window as you would in new construction and put everything back together..
Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming
WOW!!! What a Ride!
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
But what to you flash it to after you peal it back?If this is what I am thinking that it is the siding is also the sheathing and just studs behind it.
okay...
make the RO a super close fit and flash it ti the siding and relief cut the trim to handle the window flange...
or
install a retro window...Life is not a journey to the grave with the intention of arriving safely in a pretty and well preserved body, but rather to skid in broadside, thoroughly used up, totally worn out, and loudly proclaiming<!----><!---->
WOW!!! What a Ride!<!---->
Forget the primal scream, just ROAR!!!
Maybe do some exploratory demo and find out if there's any kind of moisture barrier to flash to behind the siding -- and what condition it's in. If it's old crumbly tar paper like mine, that's a real pain.
-- J.S.
bill... i would treat the existing siding as the sheathing... install my new windows... flashing......pack out the trim.. and add new siding
as to the texture 1-11 question.. the window gets installed on the face of the framing.. the t1-11 is carefull cut around the window and over the nailing fins... the bottom is flashed with a z-flash..
guess what... it sucks... i hate T 1-11....Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
Maybe do some exploratory demo and find out if there's any kind of moisture barrier to flash to behind the siding -- and what condition it's in. If it's old crumbly tar paper like mine, that's a real pain.
Luxury....I dream of having crumbly tar paper..... If you can peel back the siding 9" can you put in felt splines, promise yourself you'll come back some day and fill in the moisture barrier.... Asking cause it's what I'm planning.....
Is there trim around the the windows?
What type of windows?
Do they have nail flanges?
Best installation technique would be to remove siding and prepare opening as new. However you can still achieve this by cutting the siding back to where the finished trim will be (if there is trim). Pry siding away from wall to allow for waterproofing.
Cut the rough opening in the sheathing (is the interior sheetrock going to be removed). If the windows are large you might need to shore the ceiling during the new header installation. Cut out studs and install header, trimmers and sill.
Install any wall sheathing that is necessary. Use membrane flashing at bottom of window counterflashing existing waterproofing membrane. Some people like to install housewrap up the sides before the window is nailed in place (I prefer this technique).
Slip two membranes under the upper housewrap. Slip a head piece of flashing (copper, SS painted steel, ext.) under the outer layer of housewraps and push it tight to the T-111 or board and batten. Fold lower layer up above window and temporarily fasten it there (staples or tape).
Install window. Use membrane flashing or housewrap and flash the sides of the window over the nailing flange. Fold the inner layer of the upper housewrap over the sides and fasten it there. Install window trim and your good to go.
This method does not rely on caulking. There was good article on this in Fine Homebuilding a few issues back.
Wood is Good
Adam Greisz
Edited 8/18/2005 1:16 pm ET by AdamGreisz
Edited 8/18/2005 1:18 pm ET by AdamGreisz
I just came in on this discussion and have a similar question, only with new construction, a 16 x 24 workshop with 2 x 4 walls. I'm planning on using T-111 siding and I'm not sure how to handle the trim and flashing details around the windows and doors. I've never used T-111 before, only beveled lap siding. Does it require another layer of solid sheathing underneath it, or can it be attached directly over studs or 1/2 " insulating board?
Also, in what issue was that article? I would appreciate seeing a drawing with the trim details.
Thanks!
p.s. I'm also looking for recommendations for a good multi-purpose nail gun, for framing, sheathing and roofing if such an animal exists.
Edited 8/29/2005 11:24 pm ET by KylefromKy