Since the slab on my addition was not square I had to adjust the bottom plates of my walls accordingly. In some areas the wall sheathing will have to be cut down since the bottom plate is not flush with the outer edge of the slab and I can’t over hang the sheathing past the slab. Should I use some kind of flashing on the lower edge of the wall sheathing? I added a crude sketch to show what I’m talking about.
Thanks
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Replies
Please tell me you didn't hold the bottom plate in more than 1/2".
I had no choice in some areas. The slab bowed out in some sections. My bottom plates would have looked like snakes if I lined it up with the slab.
Can you cut the slab back?
Possibly, that would take a lot of cutting though.
Then I would fashion a pice of aluminun flashing, simular to window flashing.
Wouldn't AL corrode from the alkali in the concrete? I would think he would have to be very careful to isolate the metal from the concrete.
Jon Blakemore RappahannockINC.com Fredericksburg, VA
Doesn't around here>G<
aluminum and concrete with water are a bad combo. conventional wisdom is the concrete will eat the alum. But you can just serparate the alum from the concrete and solve the problem.
How bad is it? You may be able to run bitchythane door and window tape and cover that with galvanized door/window head flashing?
I went down to the lobby
To make a small call out.
A pretty dancing girl was there,
And she began to shout,
"Go on back to see the gypsy.
He can move you from the rear,
Drive you from your fear,
Bring you through the mirror.
He did it in Las Vegas,
And he can do it here."
I'll post some pics. in a little bit.
Here is an old pic. that I took to show how out of square and level the slab is. This is where my bottom plate lies, at this end on the slab my bottom plate extends in from the edge of the slab by 1-1/4".
Youch! I think I would have opted for framing a little out of square or a bigger plate overhang. Sounds silly, but I wonder if you should fir out the exterior to allow the siding to at least overhang the foundation (if your already framed, that is). Makes for some interesting soffit, though.Or maybe incorporate a band board at the base of the siding? Depends what the exterior finish is going to be.
It's framed already so I can't change much. Does the sheathing usually overhang past the bottom plate and cover some of the slab?
No, I usually drive a couple 16D nails (spacers) between the sill plate and concrete before I sheath. Don't know if more space would be preferred - it's just the way I do it. Just so you got some nailer into the sill. I wouldn't put plywood over the foundation.I'm not an "everyday" pro framer - maybe someone else will chime in...edit to add - pull those spacer nails out as soon as you're done with them, I've been known to get hung up on them, hard on the clothes - lol.
Edited 3/28/2009 5:10 pm ET by back2work
use a piece of 8" lead flashing and a block of wood to form it to the irregular shape of slab then lift up edge and apply a bead of silicone made to adhere to masonary
In that situation, I might caulk the sill/foundation joint (I don't think I saw sill sealer) run some window wrap about 1/4" over the foundation top to isolate the metal from the seement, sheath 1/2" above the foundation, then the appropriate galvanized head or zee flashing. I can get head flashing in different projections. What you want is something that doesn't touch the cementitious stuff. Then, housewrap over the flashing.http://www.tvwsolar.com
I went down to the lobby
To make a small call out.
A pretty dancing girl was there,
And she began to shout,
"Go on back to see the gypsy.
He can move you from the rear,
Drive you from your fear,
Bring you through the mirror.
He did it in Las Vegas,
And he can do it here."
Cut some strips of rubberized roofing and torch it onto the extended part of the foundation and up the wall a few inches. Then bend some aluminum flashing to sit ontop of that.
Just a thought.~ Ted W ~
Tool Auctions - MyToolbox.netSee my work - TedsCarpentry.com
Different approach - how about cut some arc pieces and install along the studs, and flare the bottom 3-4 clapboards out a few inches?
Forresr
I would flash it like Frammer said but just lay down a thin membrane first of ice & water shield between the concrete & aluminum. Run a straight line with your drip edge of the flashing and then finish parge the exposed wall to that straight line.
What happened that it wasn't square?
Slab was not framed square. I noticed when I started doing my layout. I think the forms might have bulged out during the pour. Good ideas you suggested. I think with all the suggestions here I will be able to get it figured.Thanks
It's happened to me. Hell, it happened on my own house addition and who was the one building the footing forms?...yours truly. When my 2 mason buddies came to build the block walls they discovered the footings out something like 5" over a 16' span. I was sooooo embarrassed, 'cause I should have known better to double check before I called for the redimix truck. They fudged it around and made it work and I did all the mixing for them and made them a big spread for their lunches.
How many times have I laid out and built forms?....too many to count. I was just going too fast and had too much on my mind.
"I was just going too fast and had too much on my mind."
I have been down that road before and i'm sure i'll be heading there again.
The framing contractors did the same thing at my house. What kills me is that the framing isn't all that square either. The only solution that I can come up with is to fur out the sheathing with 1x's. The siding contractor just made that corner his lowest point and sided from there up. On the lowest corner, I can actually see the sheathing. My quick fix was just to paint and caulk that corner, but three years later it is bugging the hell out of me. The proper fix involves tearing that whole side of the house off and I guess either furring out the new sheathing or adding furring to the existing sub-wall. Then, the rest of the house wont be off of the lowest point any more. I thought about just retro-fitting a band board, then I would only need to replace the corner trim.
My advice? fix it now.
Thanks Exc. If I go with 1/2" sheathing and gring back a little of the slab I think I'll be able to extend the Hardi siding past the slab a little.