Replies

1. 
   JohnSprung | Dec 07, 2006 11:23pm | #1

   Where are you located?  Look for a response from "Seeyou" -- he's the resident copper roof expert here.  Check his web site,

   http://www.grantlogan.net

   There's a picture there of a round tower roof that he did by making parts to the dimensions supplied by another contractor, and shipping them from Lexington KY to California.

    

    

   -- J.S.

    

1. 
   kfisch | Dec 07, 2006 11:36pm | #2

   Thank you John - Near Ann Arbor, Michigan.

2. 
   Piffin | Dec 08, 2006 12:34am | #3

   Is this round like a cone pointing up with the front wall of the dormer round, or is it a half cylinder laying down?

    

    

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   Taunton University of Knowledge FHB Campus at Breaktime.
    where ...
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1. 
   kfisch | Dec 08, 2006 12:47am | #4

   Thank you - The half-cylinder is laying down comprising the roof face.

   Where it meets the 10/12 plane of the roof, it would be a valley flashing if I were using a pitched roof dormer.

1. 
   seeyou | Dec 08, 2006 02:11am | #5

   Here's one we did recently. The valley needs to be installed in short pieces.http://logancustomcopper.com

   http://grantlogan.net/

   http://www.chicagotribune.com/classified/realestate/homeimprovement/chi-010316outdoorrenovation,0,2786095.htmlstory?coll=chi-classifiedhomeimprove-utl

    

1. 
   kfisch | Dec 08, 2006 02:26am | #7

   Excellent! Was it difficult to solder the flashing pieces?

1. 
   Sphere | Dec 08, 2006 02:33am | #8

   I actually did the soldering, and yes , there is  a learning phase, and the proper soldering equipment and supplies.  But if you can adequately solder plumbing parts you get the hang of it with practice.

   I am thinking my Sievert torch was about 370.00 or so. New tips are currently about 40 bucks if you waste one by overheating it too often or grind it away while reshaping/cleaning.

   I would NOT like John said above, use an open flame torch, that would be a nightmare. Or a house fire, and it is next to imposible to control where the heat is going....and where the solder will follow.

   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   I have irriatable Vowel syndrome.

2. 
   JohnSprung | Dec 08, 2006 02:53am | #9

   Working with torches in the driveway, I had the advantage of being able to prop and clamp things in whatever position made gravity work for me.  Without that, it would have been a mess -- or at least a much bigger mess than it was. 

   The other important thing was to design it so everything locks and crimps together mechanically.  That way the solder flows in by capillary action, just like with plumbing.  The one thing I couldn't do that on was locking strips on the valleys.  They were hell to do, had to do them in 6" sections, with a clamp every inch and a half, and a wet rag to protect the finished work.  Flat pieces warp and bulge away from each other when the heat hits them.   

    

   -- J.S.

    

3. 
   Sphere | Dec 08, 2006 03:19am | #12

   Man,that sounds like the hard way...ABC sells Irons that you could heat up in a charcoal or gas cooker. Cheap compared to what you endured. Ya need two..use one while one cooks.

   Copper poprivets help keep warpage of non-locked seams held to a minimun.

   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   I have irriatable Vowel syndrome.

4. 
   seeyou | Dec 08, 2006 02:58am | #10

   There you are. You standing by the stove?http://logancustomcopper.com

   http://grantlogan.net/

   http://www.chicagotribune.com/classified/realestate/homeimprovement/chi-010316outdoorrenovation,0,2786095.htmlstory?coll=chi-classifiedhomeimprove-utl

    

5. 
   Sphere | Dec 08, 2006 03:14am | #11

   I finally got thawed out( after a copious amount of chili) and yes, I have been loading up the inside woodpile so the I don't have to keep opening the damm door..LOL

   Doing great so far..the house is behaving like a real house..holding 60 some downstairs...70 some up...left the water dripping tho' ...I don't wanna hear the dreaded " honey? how come we have no water?" at 530 am.

   I guess we'll start late. in the AM?

   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   I have irriatable Vowel syndrome.

6. 
   jayzog | Dec 08, 2006 03:50am | #13

   You and Grant continually post fabulous copper work on this site, so I really hate to diagree with you,but I have done my own copper work for 20 sumpon years, and have been through the irons to heat in the fire, the torch -iron to attach to the B-tank, but I gotta say, I get the best results with the $40 Berzomatic propane torch with the trigger ignition. A little heat- feed a little solder-Alittle heat- on off onn off on off- works the best I've found.

   I guess it is a "feel" thing, as is not setting the house on fire.

    Mechanical joints and pop rivets are key also.

7. 
   Sphere | Dec 08, 2006 04:07am | #14

   I did it that way before I HAD a torchhead iron for my chimney chase cover pipe collar. So, yeah..its very do-able, I just prefer the new tools (G).

   Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks

   I have irriatable Vowel syndrome.

8. 
   JohnSprung | Dec 08, 2006 04:55am | #15

   Yeah, definitely a feel thing. 

   I already had the torch "feel" from lots of plumbing, and didn't do enough with the two coppers in the furnace to get that new feel.  By the time I got to those lock strips, I'd already given up on them.  (Also, I didn't want to put rivets in the valley, so I went with clamps.)  

    

   -- J.S.

    

3. 
   JohnSprung | Dec 08, 2006 02:26am | #6

   Soldering is an option.  To do it on the roof, you have to use heated soldering coppers, which isn't particularly easy.  I've done it only once, and had better luck working in the driveway with propane and MAPP torches.  You can't use torches on the roof due to the danger of setting the whole place on fire.  To work off the roof, you have to dry fit and mark everything, and design an assembly that you can still lift up there.

   Wait, though, for Seeyou or his associate Spheramid.  They do this all the time, and know it far better than I do.

    

    

   -- J.S.