Replies

1. 
   Fred_Lugano | Mar 29, 2002 08:11pm | #1

   Dear Ron,

   Your instinct was correct. To keep the porch roof dry, you'll need to tuck your roof flashing up the wall and under the siding underlayment.

   Regards, Fred

   [email protected]

1. 
   DaveMason2 | Mar 29, 2002 09:27pm | #2

   If you're like me, and I know I am. :-) I would cut out the siding from the bottom of where you're gonna put that 2x6 to 2" above where the roofing is gonna be.So you'll end up with an eight inch wide by whatever length you need hole. Then slide the flashing up behind the siding, then bolt on the 2x6. I would leave the flashing loose until I was done roofing, and then attach it accordingly.

   Good luck, Dave

   This was to "all" not Nate

   Edited 3/29/2002 2:29:52 PM ET by DAVE_MASON

   Edited 3/29/2002 2:30:35 PM ET by DAVE_MASON

2. 
   Geoffrey | Mar 30, 2002 07:28am | #3

   Ron, one other method, make a kerf cut along the point where you want the flashing to be, set the blade at 22 1/2` or similiar, with the angle going up the wall!! Put your 2x on then sheath and roof as normal, then slip the flashing(with a slight crimp in it)into the kerf and let the bottom rest on top of the shingles as usual. You gotta be right on where you cut your kerf though!!

                                                                                Geoff

3. 
   JeffBuck | Mar 30, 2002 09:49am | #4

   There's your 3 options! Build it that way first. OR Cut out the siding and make as though you built it that way first. OR retrofit and kerf the flashing in.

   Option 1 is too late. Option 2 give you a chance to slip taller flashing up under the siding...depending on the blind nails.

   Option 3 is what most contractors would give ya if they were called in to build a roof after the fact. Only problem with option 3....it becomes more of a maintenence isue keeping up on the caulking that seals the flashing from the wood.

   But...even with No 2...the end grain above the flashing is still an issue...and caulking must be maintained. But it is cedar so it should do OK on it's own. Me......I'd do the quick kerf...and keep an eye on the sealant on top. Once in the kerf and under should do the trick.

   Just don't wanna trap any water between the siding and the ledger. Some running down even would be better......everything gets a chance to dry that way.....if it were exposed. Jeff

      *  Jeff J. Buck/ Buck Construction/ Pittsburgh, PA  *    

   2nd Generation Buck Const, 3rd generation Craftsman                         

1. 
   Geoffrey | Mar 31, 2002 10:21pm | #5

    Hey Jeff, option 2 or 3 no need to caulk, just paint/stain prior to installing flashing. I know that might be trickier on my method, but I also make the kerf so it is 1 1/2" above the shingled roof AND I put a small reverse hem on the leg that slips into the kerf, this keeps the water out and acts to keep the flashing from slipping back out of the kerf (similiar to re-flashing the counter-flashing on a chimney)

                                                              Geoff

1. 
   JeffBuck | Apr 01, 2002 09:02am | #6

   I was thinking about the new end grain of the vertical siding sucking up any standing water or snow.  Paint and.or stain would help....but I'm thinking over time...the wicking action would take over.

   Then again......when relying on caulking....sooner or later the caulk's gonna fail.....and possibly trap water in there....which would lead to a quicker failure than letting the paint/stain seal a bit and leaving some room for air circulation to dry things out. I know he said cedar...but wood's wood!

   I did catch the part about the angled kerf...which I think would add years to the siding.

   Still torn....don't know if there is a best way......for my area...which gets snow. I'd just try to get the end grain sealed up good. Jeff   *  Jeff J. Buck/ Buck Construction/ Pittsburgh, PA  *    

   2nd Generation Buck Const, 3rd generation Craftsman                         

1. 
   Geoffrey | Apr 02, 2002 03:59am | #7

   Hey Jeff , I agree , it's a toss-up. I'm in Boston area so we get snow too, just not this year!!!    

       I just like to use as little caulking as possible, and rely on the tried and true methods of the past, i.e. good carpentry and building practices.

      Geoff