Replies

1. 
   DanH | Jan 27, 2014 07:24pm | #1

   One option would be to lay tapered sleepers and then roof over those.

   Note that since whatever you do is bound to still be low slope you don't want to use shingles, but rather some sort of sheet material.

1. 
   AndyEngel | Feb 07, 2014 11:58am | #2

   Sleepers for sure.

   Followed with EPDM or some easy-to-use, self-adhering low slope stuff like GAF Liberty. One thing I like about the Liberty is that you can apply it over a nailed-on base sheet, instead of adhering the roofing directly to the sheathing. If you ever end up re-roofing, you'll be glad you spent the extra bucks for the nailed base.

2. 
   MBaybut | Feb 07, 2014 12:14pm | #3

   Thanks,

   I was also trying to add a little insulation. Maybe some thing like a SIP panel idea??

   Mike

3. 
   jimblodgett | Feb 07, 2014 02:22pm | #4

   Is that chimney functional, or the remmnants of a no longer used system?

   What's the slope of the existing roof?  Maybe 3/12? 

1. 
   MBaybut | Feb 07, 2014 02:26pm | #5

   Chimney functional. Never been used. Clean as a whistle. Not sure about pitch. I think you're about right. Maybe 4/12

1. 
   jimblodgett | Feb 07, 2014 02:40pm | #8

   How is the adjacent roof framed?  The one you were standing on when you took the second photo in your original post?  Trusses?  Rafters?

   What does the foundation of that little addition look like.  Is it a proper foundation (whatever folks do around there) or was that addition once a screened porch or something and closed in at some point?

   You're gonna have some new weight loading, on some walls, and/or the existing roof.  Just trying to get some idea where to best distribute the load.

   Inside the house, is the ceiling flat from the little addition into the rooms adjacent to it, or where are the walls inside?  You said there was a crack.  You might have a flexing due to overloaded something or other already.  Should really try to figure out what you have before adding any loads.

1. 
   MBaybut | Feb 11, 2014 12:39pm | #11

   Rafters. foundation looks adequate, not a converted sunroom. The crack appears to be where the ceiling joins with the old. Simply not a well done job.  I think I'll go ahead and tear it off. Looking at the pics it appears I'll have to go up about 8 shingles. Should I remove them or can I go over the top?

   Thanks,

   Mike

1. 
   jimblodgett | Feb 11, 2014 07:18pm | #12

   Header?

   So here's the thing.  The original roof was bearing on the exterior wall, right?  If there was originally some type of opening there, like say a sliding glass door, then there might be a header somewhere in that structure (could be below or above the plateline) to carry the roof load.

   But it's also possible that wall was originally designed for studs to carry the roof load down to the foundation directly, or maybe even with a smaller opening than what you now have between the two rooms.  You still with me?

   So if the latter's the case, and some studs were removed to open the wall up between the original room and the new addition, that wall might no longer be adequate to carry that load, much less the load of the newly framed roof, so it sagged, creating the low spot Andy asked you about, cracking the interior ceiling joint and warning you to get in there and do some remedial framing.

   But this is all just guess work from 3000 miles away. 

   The reason I asked about the foundation is although there'd be nothing wrong with adding sleepers, I'd also consider bearing on the front and back walls with two planes of a small hip roof, which wouldn't put much load on the exisiting big roof structure.  The one issue really unresolved there would be the chimney, depending on exactly where that is in relation to the natural place for the three planes of a hip to intersect.

   But yes, whatever you end up doing, I'd tear the old roofing off and tie directly to existing framing.  You're going to have to lap those higher shingles up over the lower membrane anyways, right?.  Tear it back a few feet, far enough you'll be able to walk around, lay tools and materials down without tredding on shingles - not good for them.

2. 
   MBaybut | Feb 12, 2014 09:09am | #14

   Went up in the attic this morning, thank God it's not August. I pulled back the insulation and it appears, to me, that they have the rafters and ceiling joist face nailed to the header. I think I'll wait until I take the roof off to be certain what's going on.

   Mike

   
4. 
   AndyEngel | Feb 07, 2014 02:29pm | #6

   Another thought

   Why is there a low spot? Make sure there's noting ongoing there before you attempt any fix.

1. 
   MBaybut | Feb 07, 2014 02:34pm | #7

   That I don't know without tearing it off. I tried remove a soffit vent to peer in but there's batt insulation in there. No leaks on the inside

1. 
   AndyEngel | Feb 10, 2014 10:07am | #9

   I'd tear it off...

   ...when I knew I was facing a few days of good weather. That way, there's time to fix anything you might find.

1. 
   DanH | Feb 10, 2014 06:53pm | #10

   Yeah, any time this week should be fine.

5. 
   MBaybut | Feb 11, 2014 07:54pm | #13

   You know that was my fear. I just looked back at the old permits. Looked like it was done about 10 years ago from I can tell. I had an inspection done before I bought a year ago. No mention of a header missing although the joint on the ceiling was clearly visable. And it's clearly obvious it was an addition. I'm off to take another peak in the attic, It's a bit tight where the joint is but I'll see if the header is there.

   Thanks for the insight,

   Mike