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Discussion Forum

flexible elbow for water service pipe

Rikar | Posted in Construction Techniques on April 3, 2009 04:08am

Just wondering if there was any flexible fitting for incoming water line (2″ schedule 40 PVC) like those super fittings for drain lines.

The problem is I listened to the “expert” backhoe operator/licensed contractor….  When the PVC water service line was buried (about 4′ down, it entered through the poured concrete basement wall by connecting to the 2″ PVC section embedded through the wall.

I asked him if we shouldn’t compact the ditch before laying, connecting, and burying the pipe?  He said naw, wasn’t necessary.

About a year later the 2″ PVC water line running about 1/4 mile from the main line by the highway developed a major leak and horrendous water bill.  Brought the same “expert” (I know, but he’s my neighbor) back to check it out.  After digging the line at the house, sure enough, the fitting had cracked where the line entered the wall.

I asked him if there was anything we could do now to ensure it didn’t happen again.  He said for sure now the soil had settled all it was going to.  New elbow fittings to allow for the settling and reconnected and buried with shutoff valve a couple of feet upstream.

Sure enough, this year that line has developed another bad leak with two horrendous water bills.  I suspect the same problem area.  Before I have another operator out to dig it up, i wanted to get yourall’s take (not on what an idiot i am but) on what is the best course of action upon uncovering the problem.

If it is the same problem in the same place, I thought it surely would be nice if there was a potable service (as opposed to drain) fitting that was flexible enough to withstand a little more settling rather than doing anything more drastic, but if not, what drastic action do i need to take….

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Replies

  1. DanH | Apr 03, 2009 05:16am | #1

    It's called "copper".

    The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. -John Kenneth Galbraith
    1. Rikar | Apr 03, 2009 08:38am | #8

      So, i can go from 2" PVC to copper and back to 2" PVC.  Didn't know that....

  2. levelone | Apr 03, 2009 05:28am | #2

    You idiot!

    Just kidding...

    First, I want to say I am not an expert and I'm sure you will get better advice soon.

    With that said, I would abandon the embedded sleeve that runs through the foundation wall.  I'd drill a 4" hole through the concrete and run my 2" PVC through that, sealing it with expanding foam or something that will allow movement of the pipe but also keep water and critters out.

    If possible, I would drill this hole about 2' horizontally from the original hole to allow the pipe some twisting action.  Isn't this the way they designed the Alaskan Pipeline to allow for movement?

    Also, after digging everything up, I'd backfill with sand.

    Those are my thoughts.  Hope they help.

    1. Rikar | Apr 03, 2009 08:29am | #6

      Groan....  Really a clever idea tho, but in that "drastic" category.  Be my luck to hit the reinforcing rebar, too (5/8" on 16" grid in 6" concrete).  Thanks levelone.  Will give that some serious thought if other easier measures don't pan out.

  3. peteshlagor | Apr 03, 2009 05:52am | #3

    Swimming pools have pumps and stuff that require flexible hoses from one machine to another.   Commonly a flexible PVC.  Usually in 2" sizes. 

    Call your local pool house for availablity.

     

     

    1. User avater
      BillHartmann | Apr 03, 2009 08:03am | #5

      swimming pool pressures are fairly low.And line pressure can be up to 80psi or much higher and regulated inside.The pressure there might be 120, 150 or even higher..
      William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe

    2. Rikar | Apr 03, 2009 08:32am | #7

      Will definitely check that out, Pete.  Thanks.

      And, will check on specs, Bill.  Thanks, too.

      Edited 4/3/2009 1:35 am ET by Rikar

  4. jigs_n_fixtures@icloud.com | Apr 03, 2009 06:14am | #4

    It can done with a series of threaded elbows and nipples. You make a ninety with a nipple to another ninety, then another nipple with another ninety.

    The other option would be copper, or a short section of poly pipe.

    1. Rikar | Apr 03, 2009 08:44am | #9

      Not sure i get the whole picture, Jigs.  Are we missing one ninety?  Does it make a "U"?  Do we spread any settling over all those joints to lessen the effect on each?  Might be really workable if that's the case.  Thanks.

  5. DanH | Apr 03, 2009 02:53pm | #10

    How about PEX?

    The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. -John Kenneth Galbraith
    1. User avater
      BillHartmann | Apr 03, 2009 03:35pm | #11

      PEX or PE. PE might be a little easier to do for repair like this. Because all it uses is a hose clamps to attach it to the ends and some heat to soften it up to get it over the barbs.But either is a great idea. A couple of foot of one of those and put in a slight S shape and the connection can move up or down or sideways or in or out a 6 inches without any problem.
      .
      William the Geezer, the sequel to Billy the Kid - Shoe

  6. rdesigns | Apr 03, 2009 04:51pm | #12

    Your problem, as you know by now, is the settling of the backfill moreso than the kind of pipe, and I have seen many cases where ANY kind of pipe (copper, pex, polyethylene, etc) has failed due to settling. The joints are almost always the source of the leak, and you will not be able to avoid joints of some kind because of the need to repair and, if you go to another kind of pipe, transition fittings between it and your existing 2" PVC line.

    Solvent-welded (glued) PVC joints are forever if made right. PVC's weakness, you already know, is its inflexibilty compared to other types.

    Bottom line:  repair the line with glued PVC, but encase it with a section of 4" plastic drain line, like ABS or PVC about 8 ft. long. Backfill with sand or pea gravel, and tuck it under the 4" sleeve so that the annular space between the 2" line and the sleeve is all above the 2" PVC line. Make sure the sleeve is forced tight to the foundation wall.

    This will give you about 2" of possible movement before affecting the PVC line. And if you are meticulous about the backfill UNDER the line, there will not likely be enough movement to ever cause this problem again. If you want more of a safety factor, go with a bigger sleeve.

  7. DaveRicheson | Apr 03, 2009 07:04pm | #13

    As Dan suggested, transition to PEX for a few feet and then back to the PVC.

    Others have suggested sand or pea gravel. I use sand, but I dont stop at just the area around the fitting. I fill the hole to within a foot of the top and then put the top soil over that. I also hose down the sand a little as I back fill the hole to be sure I've got all the ltlle air pockets out..

    By filling to within a foot of grade yo also have an easier dig if you need to get to it agian (G).

    Plumbing inspectors here require sand, lime dust or gravel around any buried rugid pipe, before it is backfilled. I even bedded my 300' of PEX line in sand because the fill was so full of rocks that I didn't want them anywhere near my line.

    1. Rikar | Apr 03, 2009 07:46pm | #14

      Thanks, all you guys.  What a bunch of great ideas.  Much to ponder....

      Thanks again!

      1. DanH | Apr 04, 2009 04:14am | #15

        Are you pondering what I'm pondering?
        The modern conservative is engaged in one of man's oldest exercises in moral philosophy; that is, the search for a superior moral justification for selfishness. -John Kenneth Galbraith

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