Anyone have experience putting floating plank flooring over a concrete slab?
I’ve got a basement remodel project starting up here. I’ve been talking to the HOs about doing cork plank flooring in the basement to help warm up the space.
The floor is in pretty good shape, but it’s 100 years old, definitely a few small dips and some gentle rolling going on.
I’ve only put the cork planks over a level plywood subfloor, so I’m not sure what kind of tolerance it will have for small inconsistencies.
Anyone have experience with this kind of click together flooring over old concrete?
I may use some self leveling concrete to even things out, however I just chiseled up all of the old vinyl tile in there and there’s quite a bit of old adhesive on the slab. I know the SLC directions call for getting rid of all adhesive residue before use, which could be quite an extra task.
I had thought about attaching plywood to the slab somehow, but that would necessitate PT plywood over the slab and then a vapor barrier over that. I’d be worried that if the plywood came loose over time it would be really noisy and crappy.
Any advice? Either on SLC application over old concrete, attaching plywood to a slab, or tolerance of plank flooring to inconsistencies in the floor?
Feel free to tell me I’m crazy also, or offer ideas of some other things you’ve done for basement flooring to brighten and warm things up. (They don’t want carpet, or lino, marmoleum is an option, but cork seems like a good way to go)
thanks
Paul
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Oh yeah,
The basement is about 425 sq ft in the main area, another 150 in the laundry area, 60 in the bathroom (will be tiled), and the rest won't need flooring.
Paul
I have a two story slab on grade. The slab was poured by hand in three sections. Leveling between the sections was an after thought. I did some pourable concrete in a few areas but I wish I had done more after I had finished a couple of rooms (dining and living). Decided to spend a lot more time ensuring a level floor for the kitchen. I went with engineered maple hardwood as I managed to get it at 2.25 sq.ft from a flooring auction. I've put down about a thousand sqft so far and I can see the job ending soon.
Here is one method being used that uses 4x8 T&G on top of dimpled plastic
http://www.systemplaton.com/pdf/ARM-Platon-install-int-10.pdf
I have used the DELTA FL system as the PLATON system only had foundation protection available when I was scoping out options.
http://www.deltafl.com/
I like using the DELTA FL. The rolls are a bit cheaper than the 4x8 cut sheets that are also available. I wanted to decrease any chance of mold developing that was apparent with the carpet and foam underlay. Although the carpet really hid all the problems with the concrete floor. After the floor was put down, I found a bit of a hollow sound when walking on it. In the end I am happy but it isn't a good hardwood nail down job which I would have really liked.
Floor leveling is going to be an issue no matter what you put down so spend the time to get it level.
Thanks, that's good info. I actually haven't seen either of those products before. Any rough idea on sq. ft. price?
Also, you mentioned a hollow sound, I'm assuming that you put down plywood on top of the mat. If so, did you screw it down fairly often, or only around the perimter as the Platon system suggested (seems kinda underkill since that TNG plywood's still gonna want to move a little, seems like it could potentially buckle up a little bit at the joints if it's not screwed down anywhere but the outside edges)
The slab I'm dealing with is actually fairly level overall as far as 100 year old slabs go, but there's definitely some spots to address, and I think there's unfortunately a hump right around the middle.
Hey Paul
I installed as per specs. Engineered hardwood over a laminate foam right on top of the DELETA FL. I didn't use any plywood. I figured this cut the cost and work substantially (cost of ply, tapcons etc.). I suspect the places where I hear the hollow sound, while walking is in areas where I wasn't as good with the floor levelling compound. Any areas where furniture or tables are placed it sounds like a regular soild floor. I think the DELTA FL was running just over $1 a sq ft (maybe a $1.15) plus the foam then the engineered flooring.
Paul -
Your flooring manufacturer should have some specs about the allowable variation in the floor's "flatness" - as well as recommended installation methods over concrete (e.g. vapor barrier, etc)
Since level and flat aren't the same thing, I would also want to really check on the floor's level. A floor that old may be quite a bit out of level which could make using leveling compounds something of an adventure.
I've done two installatons of cork floating planks in basements. Both basements already had old vinyl asbestos tiles over a concrete slab. I laid down that super-thin foam padding layer on top of the old tile with no other prep whatsoever. The planks are thick enough to bridge chipped and partly missing tiles no problem. They bridge divots left from pulling out old tack strips no problem. By and large the installations have held up great (4 years now) and the cork is a very nice surface to walk on. Provides some insulation as well.
One warning: if you keep the cork dressed (mop on a coat of sealer once or twice a year) it handles water spills just fine. But if you ever get standing water UNDER the cork - forget it. In one basement, the Aprilaire unit on the furnace leaked and flooded under the cork planks. The planks immediately swelled and buckled, and when they dried out they shrank like crazy. I'm talking shrinkage enough to pull the planks completely apart. About 40 sq. ft had to be replaced. The rest of the basement still looks perfect. Slight seasonal movement due to humidity, but no worse than a hardwood strip floor.
I really like the feel of cork underfoot. That's why I was pushing for it as the flooring in this basement. The HOs had the same concern about moisture and whether the cork would be especially prone to it. I've put it down in a kitchen and laundry room before as well as other non-wet areas and felt that it holds its own as far as top side moisture control, but was concerned about water getting underneath it. I guess it's good to know that it will be a problem if something fails and water gets underneath.
The basement itself is dry, and even though it's slab below grade, the property was actually graded correctly so that there's never been any leakage before. That's not to say it couldn't happen in the future, but that would be an issue with pretty much any flooring at that point.