I have some one foot square parquet flooring to sand & finish & I’m thinking the 16″ or so disc would be the way to go
called Home Depot to confirm whether they had one to rent and yes they do but the guy mentioned he has heard reports of experienced users having this tool get away from them / comments??
white oak no stain topped w/ waterlox
I’ve used the drum but thinking disc for parquet
also like the idea of it being less aggressive than drum as there is not much wood left
Replies
Check out a Squar Buff Sander...usually found with Varathane finishes.
Edit to add:
http://www.flecto.com/product.asp?frm_product_id=188&SBL=5
Edited 10/23/2006 9:57 pm ET by basswood
There is also the 4-disk random orbit floor sander. U-Sand.
The local HD rents them also.
Square Sander is the ticket. HD has it for sure in WI I don't know about your location. The Sander is 18 by 24 or so and vibrates like hell. It'd only get away from you if you were 9 years old. Don't even think of a drum unless you are doing a gym floor.
Don't fret over what kind of grit to use. You "buy all the grits" and return what you don't need. For Parquet I'd start at no less than 60. 60 will get you there but depending on the size of the room you could opt for a lower number to speed it up. If you go to the 32 grit it'll chew up the oak in quick time. Finish at your call but this isn't furniture. I stop at somewhere short of 100. After all you are pooling finish over the wood.
Save the fines (fines being dust from 60 to 80 grit. Mix em up with Shellac and work it in the cracks with a putty knife. I've used every kind of factory made filler but that home-brew version is the best. It is dead on after it is final sanded and coated with the floor finish. I only wish I thought of using it sooner.
Get on it!
and ALLnever thought the square would be aggressive enoughwill go w/ that at 32 grit to 100like the fines w/ shellac / this is 1912 face nail so I'll be doing a lot of setting & your filler will work sweet
I imagine this is obvious to anyone other than the people who did my floor, but with face nailing, after you sand, be sure to check that you don't have any 'shiners'. If you do, use a nail set and punch them down.Then do the filling with the shellac/dust.
BTW, why shellac rather than the finish being used on the floor?
Shellac is boo bo proof. If it gets too thick loosen it with more alcohol. Plus it sets up really quickly. floor finish is a couple to many hours before it is sandable. Try it if you like but why reinvent something that really works well? I guess some could be too cheap to buy 3 dollars worth of shellac?Jack of all trades and master of none - you got a problem with that?
I just figured shellac might set up too fast. I just had some non-tongue pine floors done, and I'm pretty sure they used the poly that we finished the floors with. I would also think the expansion contraction of shellac would not be as good as poly, but maybe that doesn't matter with all the sawdust. But I like the idea of shellac too.
Well I had an old can of shellac and it worked for me pretty sweetly. I think the sanding factor is the primary issue.
However I have to say the Jatobia flooring I laid was awfull to fill after the original face nailing. Nothing I tried worked and looked good. Every closet looks like the face of Dennis the menace. Off color freckles everywhere a nail is set.
I did use Walnut filler (Famowood) on walnut cabinets and it worked Fabulously. However there was no match with Jatobia, no matter how I mixed the std. colors and tried to tint. Nothing was good.
The shellac and fines version is undetectable. And this is in the middle of a big sweeping hallway.
If you try the poly let us know. All the best
Jack of all trades and master of none - you got a problem with that?