Replies

1. 
   jcallahan | Apr 13, 1999 02:44am | #1

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   Some friends have v match yp floors ..... used stain and polyurethane ......looks great and has held up well. I'm sure there are tougher finishes (Glitsa comes to mind) but I think stain and poly would work fine.

2. 
   Guest_ | Apr 13, 1999 06:35am | #2

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   Water or oil-based poly? I've always believed that oil-based poly resulted in a tougher finish than water-based, but I am curious as to whether water-based poly has improved.

   What is 'Glitsa' is that a brand or type of finish and where could I get some?

   Will I need to sand between coats, or is that an 'as needed' sort of thing? The last floor I varnished I used alkyd based poly. It has not chipped or pealed, but I did no sanding between coats and found the result a bit rough. The material did not seem to level itself completely, perhaps a result of the very hot, humid weather at the time and the fact that I used a roller and did not brush the varnish out after rolling (ah ya live and learn, I really thought it would level out). I would like better results this time and was hoping for a few suggestions and tips.

   Thanks for any you can provide.

3. 
   jcallahan | Apr 13, 1999 10:32pm | #3

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   I've used both and I prefer oil based poly ......I think it is more durable ( some would disagree) and it doesn't raise the grain of the wood the way the water based products seem to. Water based products are becoming more popular because they allow for recoating in a short period of time.I'd sand between coats. Most rental places have the machine (looks like a commercial floor polisher and the sanding screens. Areas like closets you can do by hand. Vacuum well and then use a tack rag to get ALL the dust. A back issue of FHB had a good article on Swedish floor finishes(Glitsa etc.)( sorry ...can't recall which one). What kind of roller cover did you use (material, length of nap)?

1. 
   Wayne_D._Muck | Apr 14, 1999 05:10am | #4

   *I've finished several pine floors and some hard woods with gym floor finish and had excellent results. The product I used was a commercial product that we brushed on. Been awhile since I used it, so the recommended procedure may have changed. What I used came from a company called Northland Parker located in Green Bay, Wi.

4. 
   Guest_ | Apr 20, 1999 12:32pm | #5

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   We oil-base polyurethaned our heart-pine floors, but have to do it every ten years or so. I'm getting ready to lightly refinish again (don't want to eat the floor up with a drum sander - can only use those things once or twice!), using the screens. I would
   i really
   like to know if there's something that would show wear and tear less easily! Sometimes I wish I had done it the old-fashioned way, but then I'd spend my life paste-waxing. *sigh* I'm tempted to put Spar varnish down!

   Thanks!

   Patty

   P.S. Just joking about the spar varnish... I think...

5. 
   jcallahan | Apr 20, 1999 08:28pm | #6

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   If you have kids and dogs, and a lot of foot (feet?) traffic, I think a 10 year life is good for most any finish .... I'm not so sure that comercial finishes would last that much longer. I have not used them but most I have seen have a plastic coated look. I've used spar varnish on doors but not on floors ....may try it some time.

1. 
   david_sorg | Apr 21, 1999 08:22am | #7

   *True spar varnishes aren't as hard or as tough as polyurethanes. They are much more flexible which is why they're good for outdoor wood which moves so much with temperature and moisture variations. I also think 10 years is pretty good for any high traffic areas. I still (and always) vote for shellac, which, while not as tough or water resistant, looks marvelous and is ever so easy to touch-up or refinish.

6. 
   Guest_ | Apr 21, 1999 05:43pm | #8

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   After reviewing previous FH articles, I am leaning towards "water-borne polyurethane". Seems to have the advantage of a durable, hard finish, low VOC's and rapid drying time. rapid enough that adding a retardant seems advisable. This is an advantage for me since this room is the main entry to our house and will need to be usable quickly. Low VOC's should also return the house to livable sooner. My GC's floor finisher (who is too busy for such a "small" job) uses water-borne poly, but I have yet to talk with him.

   Have any of you used this finish?

7. 
   jcallahan | Apr 21, 1999 09:05pm | #9

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   I've used water- born poly (Benjamin Moore brand)on an island job. From what your needs are, water-born poly is probrably the way to go. Quick recoat times tho' you will need to screen between coats -the water based product tends to raise the grain of the wood.

8. 
   Guest_ | Apr 21, 1999 09:05pm | #10

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   I have just finished sanding a 50 year old narrow width (2.5") yellow pine floor in a room that will be a kitchen/dining room. What will be the best finish for this floor?