I will be installing a ceramic tile over a 60 year old concrete floor. This floor slopes 2.25″ over approx. 12′ and 2″ over 8′ in another direction. The floor originally was pitched to a now removed floor drain.
How do I best level this floor for tile? Should I try to only reduce this pitch in half? I am concerened that I’m too thin for a concrete pour, yet too thick for floor leveler. I’m also concerned with any new product bonding with the old. I’ll aim to do the correct fix as long as it does not mean ripping out the existing.
thanks in advance
Replies
make up the thickness with CC starting from about 1"....
add binder.. (that CC glue that looks like milk)
follow the instruction on the jug...
finish to grade with leveler...
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There are different grades of floor leveler designed for everything from 0" to 2" thick. Just do some research and see what is available.
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That's just what I planned on doing..I don't want to have this project lift in a year or two.thanks.
I believe some floor levelers can accept aggregate in order to make them suitable for thicker placement.
I'd call the gypcrete guys.
You have a few options depending on whether you want to save on material or labor.
No matter which path you take you need to make sure the floor is clean -- no paint, oil, or cutback adhesive.
You can build up a mud bed with dry packed concrete "mud" or you can use self-leveling cement (SLC). The SLC material cost is high but the labor cost is low. The mud bed material cost is cheap but it will take more time.
If you build a mud bed then you should bond it to the slab with modified thinset and try to get a minimum of about an inch (or maybe a half inch) thickness above the slab. See below:
http://www.johnbridge.com/deckmud.htm
Related info:
http://johnbridge.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=5434
If you use SLC then make sure you first spread the primer sold by the manufacturer on the slab. If you pour multiple layers then you need to prime the top of each layer before pouring a new one. SLC is expensive but to reduce the cost you can add pea gravel in the deepest part of your pour. You will want to pour up to about 1/8 or 1/4 inch above the high point of your current floor.
See below:
http://johnbridge.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=1807
If you use SLC you need to have everything ready and move fast. It is best to have a helper. I mix two bags at a time in a plastic garbage can, and I use a bucket with a premeasured line for adding water. I fill a clean trash can with water at the mixing site so I can quickly fill the bucket with water, without waiting for a hose or faucet. Did I say you have to work fast?
Here's another good SLC article, although it involves electric radiant heat as well:
http://johnbridge.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=36020
I suggest avoiding gypcrete, particularly if the slab is on or below grade. It takes a long time to fully cure.
http://johnbridge.com/vbulletin/showthread.php?t=1804
Billy
Edited 9/13/2007 10:28 pm ET by Billy
thnaks for all your knowledge and links.