Replies

1. 
   MojoMan | Jun 12, 2004 02:40pm | #1

   This should be simple enough. (Oh, wait, this is Breaktime. You'll get a dozen different plans!) Dig holes for about eight piers in two parallel lines about ten feet apart. The piers should be on footings below the frost line. Build two parallel beams on the piers of doubled 2x8's (pressure-treated). Build a deck with 2x8's 16" o.c. on top of those. Use 3/4" cdx for the floor. A nice, sturdy ramp should get the equipment in and out. 

   Al Mollitor, Sharon MA

1. 
   RogerDumas | Jun 12, 2004 02:59pm | #2

   Thanks, Al,

   That does sound straight forward.  Pretty much like building a deck!

   Cheers!"When I read about the evils of drinking, I gave up reading." ~ Henny Youngman

1. 
   OneofmanyBobs | Jun 12, 2004 06:29pm | #3

   Mostly OK except for the beams and joists.  Doubled 2x8 beams, 10 foot span carrying 12 foot floor joists gives you 40 PSF, not counting structure loads.  3x4 foot lawn tractor with rider will be more than that.  I'd do doubled 12s for the beams and 2x10 joists.  Plus PT 2x decking. 

   If you're driving a mower in and out it needs to be pretty heavy duty.  Usually with a pole barn, you just use a dirt or gravel floor.  Cheaper and stronger.  Also easier to drive in sonce you need no ramp.  If you want it fancier, just lay concrete pavers dry and sweep some sand on it.  Probably way cheaper than a joist floor system given the price of lumber these days.

1. 
   MojoMan | Jun 12, 2004 08:20pm | #5

   Just to be clear: I was suggesting a 10-foot joist span with 1-foot cantilevers for the 2x8's with 4 piers under each beam.

   I have a 12' x 16' shed built this way with 2x6 joists and 4x6 beams. It's a little bouncey (That's why I suggested larger-dimension material in my post.), but works fine and is about 10 years old and still plumb and level. 

   Sure, it could be stonger but sometimes sheds call for a different blend of strength and economy.

   Al Mollitor, Sharon MA

1. 
   OneofmanyBobs | Jun 12, 2004 11:02pm | #9

   Sorry, I didn't see the part about 4 piers.  That would be OK. 

    More of a concern to me that the floor is elevated.  Especially in winter if you have a little plow.  My mower weighs about a half ton with operator.  Not so bad if you just have a little MTD.  But, bigger stuff or that old Edsel you have up on blocks would be a problem.  I'm planning a shed now for myself.  Concrete block footings.  Pavers set on gravel for the floor.  I'd do poured concrete, but not possible to get a truck back there and I don't care to wheelbarrow it a couple hundred feet uphill.  Could rent a buggy, but its a lot of work either way.  For wood, figure a buck a SF for framing and another buck for decking at the cheapest.  For a 4 inch slab, concrete is cheaper. 

2. 
   RogerDumas | Jun 13, 2004 01:15am | #10

   Thanks, everyone!  I really appreciate the feedback.  The location is accessible for a cement truck so that's a possibility.  I'll present the options to my bro-in-law and the inspector and do a few cost calculations.  The shed will be near Worcester, MA so they can often have a lot of snow (as much as 4' on the ground during a bad winter).

   Great advice!  Thanks gain!"When I read about the evils of drinking, I gave up reading." ~ Henny Youngman

3. 
   Dryrot | Jun 13, 2004 06:14am | #11

   I have built quite a few 12 x 16' Mini Barns. (slow time work for my guys) Around here they are considered portable temporary structures and didn't have to meet any code till last year. I frame them just like Piffin says, only we put them on 6" x 6" skids. The floor feels very solid with 2 x 8" joists. I did a few with 2 x 6" joists and they work fine too, but the floor is a little springy.

    --- BRICK

    

   "They say that there is a fine line between genius and insanity. I like to color outside the lines...and then eat the crayons." ~ Me

2. 
   teasea | Jun 12, 2004 06:51pm | #4

   concrete!  concrete!  concrete!  concrete!

3. 
   davidmeiland | Jun 12, 2004 08:28pm | #6

   I wouldn't do a wood-framed floor. Pour a concrete pad with a thickened edge and frame up walls on that. If you want to go all out use footings. A slab is more appropriate for what you want to store, and you won't need a ramp.

4. 
   WorkshopJon | Jun 12, 2004 08:48pm | #7

   "My brother-in-law wants to build a 12' x 24' shed to house his riding lawn mower, snow blower, etc."

   Roger,

   What part of the country? How strict are the building codes? What's the budget.  I like what DavidM. said, but you could also more cheaply go with a gravel base pole structure if allowed.

   Jon

5. 
   MisterT | Jun 12, 2004 08:59pm | #8

   Pick a spot with good drainage.

   take away any topsoil (at least 6")

   replace with crushed stone

   compact and level

   build floor system of PT 2x6 directly on compacted gravel bed.

   no sag because there is no span!!!

   use 2 layers of ply to help hold up against tractor.

   Mr T

   Happiness is a cold wet nose

   Life is is never to busy to stop and pet the Doggies!!

6. 
   butch | Jun 13, 2004 01:32pm | #12

   Here's one I built, Its 14x20

   It's got 3 6x6 runners w/2x6 on 12"o.c. w/2x4 blocking on 4' centers for the 3/4"

   plywood (all pressure treated). The runners are on 3 -12" sonotubes per runner.

   The thing is rock solid.  Used 2x6s because I had height restrictions and I needed

   the couple of inches in the diff. of 2x6s and 2x8s. I couldn't exceed 16' (height) with

   the setback the homeowner wanted from the property line.

   If  I were to do it again I would have looked at the cost diff. between 6x6 and 3-2x6

   because those 6x6s weren't cheap. And I probably could have achieved the same

   results w/3-2x6s.

7. 
   mdresimprov | Jun 13, 2004 05:36pm | #13

   I agree with MojoMan sono tubes and 2X8s with one difference. In snow country I like to use 5/4 PT decking for flooring to give someplace for the snow/ice on the snow blower to go.

   MES