We are renovating the bathroom and many have convinced us that removing the original pine flooring all the way down to the joists is best. We’ll start fresh with two layers of plywood, CBU, and tile.
The problem is that I noticed the studs for the wall to the room next door don’t rest on a bottom plate–they are nailed directly into the t&g pine. What’s more, they don’t rest on top of a joist but are a couple of inches away from the closest joist under the room next door. I’ll be cutting the pine off against the face of the studs on the bathroom side, but then there’s nothing directly under the ends of the remaining pine, and I’m wondering if this is a big issue. These studs are turned the shallow way and I don’t think provide much structural/load-bearing function. Perhaps a bigger issue is that the new floor laid on the bathroom side of the wall will then have over a foot until it has a joist under it, and there will be a clawfoot tub right in this space. See attached photo (reposted in message #8 below) to visualize what I’m talking about.
Solutions? We are sistering the joists, and blocking between them. Will blocking installed every foot or so below this wall be enough?
Replies
If I understand the question, your answer is yes. Those studs are obviously not a load bearing wall.
Okay. But what about the flooring on that bathroom side of those studs that will hold the clawfoot tub? These things can weigh 350 pounds without any water or a person in them. The floor overhang to the next joist on this side is about a foot, where it's only a couple of inches for the unsupported studs...
Blocking? New tub install or old one?
It's a new tub install.I'm not sure how to answer "Blocking?" Are you asking me what I mean by that or are you making an uncertain suggestion to try blocking?Thanks for your time.
Blocking the floor joists together would help, to be honest, I am responding to you to help keep this question on the first page, that means more of a chance others may jump in to help.
There is a lot of talent responding and someone may have run into situation you have and can give you answers how they solved it.<G>
If the tub is really heavy, you might want to consider beefing up the floor joists while ya can.BTW - Posting monster pics like that makes it difficult for those of us without high speed internet to look at them.
Laugh and the world laughs with you, cry, and you're probably watching the wrong channel.
“[Deleted]”
It's more correct to install a joist under the wall rather than block between, probably faster as well.
Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.
Ah, the joys of home owneership!place a joist running directly under the studwall, and another immediately next to it on the bath side to receive the new subfloor.
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The nails from the studs coming down through the floor above are angled and will prevent me from putting a stud directly under them. Unless I cut them off where they exit the bottom of the floor...is this what I should do? Also, adding two new joists into this space probably means I don't need to sister the joist next to them on the bath side, right? I think this would be overkill unless there is something structurally wrong with the old joist, which I don't think there is.
Besides the angled nail problem, there's a stud coming down the exterior wall onto the top plate right where the joist under those nails would go. Should I put a joist a couple of inches over, cut off the pine a little further into the bathroom and have it rest on half of the new joist and the plywood rest on the other half?
Yes, you probably don't need to doubl eup the nearest one too."he nails from the studs coming down through the floor above are angled and will prevent me from putting a stud directly under them. Unless I cut them off where they exit the bottom of the floor...is this what I should do?"Lot of options here. You can clinch them over flat to the underside of the flooring there.You can back them up to flush, then drive then in tight again after getting the underframing done.You can use a sawsall or a grinder to cut them off in place."putting a stud directly under them"This is a joist you are putting in under.
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"This is a joist you are putting in under"--right, this was a typo. See my post below it where I correctly called it a joist. Any suggestions for what to do about a stud coming down the wall cavity and resting on the top plate right where the joist would sit if I were putting it directly under the nails?Thanks for the ideas!
use sawsall again.cut it so that it is 1/8" or so above top of the joist, and once joist is in place, drive cedar shim tight.
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Ugh. This is becoming complicated! My sawzall technique is still in its developing stages and I'm worried about kickback while trying to cut that stud out of the wall cavity. It just doesn't seem like there's enough space to have the saw at the right orientation.So what if I opt to NOT cut out all of the original pine tongue and groove??? Then I wouldn't have this support issue. There are a few places around the tub drain, toilet and vanity where these boards have been cut out to some degree. Is there any problem with leaving this layer, trimming those holes so the edges always fall halfway across a joist and then just cutting patches from 3/4" plywood to insert in these areas???? Then I would put my 1/2" ply and 1/4" CBU layers on top of this.This seems like so much less effort on so many counts, but am I compromising anything by going this route?
That would probably work fine too as long as you glue and screw the 1/2" down
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I've become aware that the 3/4" ply is not actually 3/4" and is therefore slightly different in height than the pine floor around it would be. I like this idea, though. Are there ways to solve this issue?
You could buy real 3/4"A lot of the old flooring i've seen was 13/16"Sometimes you can shim with 30# tarpaper, but the disallows glue. You can squeaze some extra PL Premium down when overlaying. When it hardens, it has become a shim at the transition.
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