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Are floor tiles typically laid half way into the doorway of each room that abuts the floor being covered with tile? (I refer to doorways without doors here.)
Since the baseboard of a tiled room will be higher than the base of an adjoining room that is already carpeted, what is a good method of treating the baseboard in such rooms that the tile meets? Would it be practicable to raise the base around the perimeter of the room to accommodate the thickness of the tile?
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Where you stop your tile is a matter of personal preference. I would definitly go under the baseboard trim instead of up to it, leaving about 1/4"+/- gap between tile and wall, depending on the thickness of your base, for expansion. This gap gets covered by the base The base will need to be ripped to match where the floor transitions to a different height.
Dave
*I agree with Dave, but would add the following comments.First, while your post is not entirely clear, I assume that the tile and finished wood floor in the other room are at different elevations. Indeed, if the tile was laid on top of the same subfloor, the tile is probably about 1/2" higher than the finish floor, accounting for a mortar base and the tile. If the tile is laid on top of the same finished floor, it is even higher.Second, whenever possible, I try to lay the tile at the same elevation. It does involve quite a bit of extra labor, but it can be done, usually in two ways. I have rebuilt the subfloor not on top of the joists, but in between them, using blocking. This saves you 3/4", and if you use 1/2" wonder board, this puts the finished tile at the same elevation as the finish floor. The other way is even more labor intensive, and involves trimming 3/4" off the joists (e.g., knotching them) for the new subfloor. If you use either one of these two alternatives, your problem is moot. This method is not entirely kosher, and many homeowners do not like you cutting away sections of the floor joists, and indeed would want to make an informed decision as to the structure before recommend this. Building the subfloor between the joists is not as stable as on top of the joists, and the surface has to be dead level, with absolutely no breaks or voids. I often add a strip of 1/8" or 1/4" ply just to be sure the substrate does not flex and crack.Assuming that for either cost or structural reasons, you can not have the finish tile be at the same elevation as the finish adjacent floor, then I terminate the tile somewhere between the wall stud, and cap the transition with a threshold. The exact termination point then becomes irrelevant. As for you base, I assume you have the same base in each room, and want to use the existing base. Like Dave, I would rip a section of the base off at the bottom to accomodate the thickness of the tile and mortar/wonder board. That way the top of the base is at the same elevation in both rooms.You didn't mention this, but I also re-case the door/entryway, pulling off the casings in the tiled sections, and knotching a section off to accomodate the thickness of the tile. The inner casing/jamb should also be knotched, and this doesn't have to be too accurate, as your threshold will cover up the cut.Hope this helps.
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Are floor tiles typically laid half way into the doorway of each room that abuts the floor being covered with tile? (I refer to doorways without doors here.)
Since the baseboard of a tiled room will be higher than the base of an adjoining room that is already carpeted, what is a good method of treating the baseboard in such rooms that the tile meets? Would it be practicable to raise the base around the perimeter of the room to accommodate the thickness of the tile?