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Flooring Clamp?

Alpinist | Posted in Tools for Home Building on July 17, 2006 11:57am

Recently I was fitting some reluctant Tongue and Groove pine boards, and was using my usual method of making up a couple of wedges. I then fix one to the joist and hammer the other one in to tighten up the board. Are there any tools that do this better? The only one available easily here is called a Vaugn Bowwrench, but I have not met anyone who has used it.

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  1. Shep | Jul 18, 2006 01:32am | #1

    I've got a Bowwrench, but I don't think it's meant for what you want.

    I use it on decks, where it sits over a joist, you pull on the handle, and it grabs the joist and applies pressure to the decking.

    I don't know if it'll work over a flat surface; maybe they have some accessories for it that I don't know about.

  2. User avater
    zak | Jul 18, 2006 01:56am | #2

    How about this? flooring clamp.  I've never used it, but I've noticed it there before.

    zak

    "so it goes"

    1. calvin | Jul 18, 2006 03:31am | #4

      I've used the bessey type clamping system for laminate floors.  It is used primarily to hold them together, tho is will pull the tongue into the groove on those products.  However, the tongue length is not very big on a lam floor.  If the gap in your HW is of any distance, not sure if these would pull them together.  Laminate is pretty true (straight).  Too much torque on the clamp and it's liable to pull the board up you're pulling in. my method for hw is the wedge block or chisel driven in and pulled back.  A great place for Information, Comraderie, and a sucker punch.

      Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

      Quittin' Time

       

  3. User avater
    JeffBuck | Jul 18, 2006 03:19am | #3

    porch boards over open joists or flooring over plywood sheeting subfloors?

     

    Jeff

        Buck Construction

     Artistry In Carpentry

         Pittsburgh Pa

  4. DustyandLefty | Jul 19, 2006 07:57pm | #5

    That twisty pine is a pain, but it sure looks nice at the end.  I've used sets of wedges screwed into the subfloor (didn't need to use the joists) and extended pipe clamps when I've been able to.  With the 1/2 pipe clamps, you can reverse the working end with the handle to push instead of pull, by adding a 4" piece of pipe.  But everything I've tried has been very slow, so I'd be glad to read about other ideas. 

    D&L

    1. Alpinist | Jul 20, 2006 08:32am | #6

      http://www.axminster.co.uk/product.asp?pf_id=31839&name=flooring+nailer&user_search=1&sfile=1&jump=0

      This is the one I meant, I have tried the ratchet types with limited success.

  5. User avater
    trout | Jul 20, 2006 09:10am | #7

    A decent strength deck screw can be drilled in with enough space to wedge a claw hammer between it and a scrap of wood.  Likewise, a cats paw can pry between the screw and the block.

    Many times a cats paw or dull chisel is partially driven into the decking and used to pry against a wood scrap.  A small to moderate size japanese cats paw seems especially good at this.  This is the quickest route.

    Sometimes if the joint is almost closed, a 15g finish nail will hold the pine and allow one hammer hit (to a scrap block for cusion) to slightly tighten the joint, while two will simply allow the wood to spring back.  After each hit another 15 g nail is driven.  Good for 2-3 nails.

    The 15g nailer can quickly shoot scrap blocks to the subfloor that can be pried against.  The trick is using short enough nails that it pulls off easily while providing a good prying pivot.

     

    1. Alpinist | Jul 20, 2006 11:22pm | #9

      Thanks for that. I was getting enough leverage with my scraps of wood to snap or bend the screws holding them in place. The idea of slowly nailing into place is a good one. I think the problem was partly the quality of the planks, I should'nt complain, as it is the carpenters job to make things look good!

      1. User avater
        trout | Jul 21, 2006 06:37am | #10

        I think the problem was partly the quality of the planks, I should'nt complain, as it is the carpenters job to make things look good!

        It sure is hard to get good pine anymore!  Someone was telling me that none of the biggest lumber yards stock clear pine (select d or c) since it was "old school".  ?????

        The 15g nail trick works well.  If something is especially difficult, you might also try two nails with each hammer blow.  That combined with some additional help from a prying chisel or cats paw can be quick and provide a great deal of pressure. 

  6. Big Red | Jul 20, 2006 09:43am | #8

    Check out Cepco Tool QuikJack Mod. QJ1XXX at Amazon.com. It's salty but works great!                      RED

  7. RenaissanceRestorations | Jul 22, 2006 05:11pm | #11

    I've used the CEPCO Quickjack, available on amazon.com, with good success on a couple of flooring jobs I've done.

    J

    Renaissance Restorations LLC
    Victorian Home Restoration Services

    http://www.renaissancerestorations.com

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