Replies

1. 
   calvin | Jan 17, 2012 09:08pm | #1

   qori

   What area of the country?

   Is this shop for daily use?

   I assume you're going to at least have the apt. structure roughed in?

   How do you plan, or what are your ideas for heat and/or cooling?

2. 
   BossHog | Jan 18, 2012 06:55am | #2

   Are you asking about floor framing, or the actual floor surface?

1. 
   qori | Jan 18, 2012 01:08pm | #4

   woodshop floor

   Boss Hog;

   sorry i did not include the minor detail :)

   I am talking about the floor framing.  i plan to use plywood (3/4") unless you have other suggestions.

   thanks

1. 
   HarryLudke | Jan 18, 2012 05:03pm | #6

   Subflooring

   I wouldn't use 3/4" plywood. It usually is somewhat warped and it's a bit** to get the  tongue and grove to line up. Many builders use AdvanTech 3/4" subflooring 16" on center. It has alot of advantages over plywood. First off it's usually cheaper than plywood. It's a wood fiber material that's made with waterproof glue so it's straight and true, never warped. The waterproof glue means it can stand up to a fair amount of rain exposure and not warp or buckle giving you some time getting your roof on. It's extremely strong and should meet most building codes. The tongue and groves have a tapered desigh making it very easy to bang the sheets together.

   I would do the glue and screw method using PL subfloor adhesive. When your done, you'll have an extremely strong structure !

2. 
   BossHog | Jan 19, 2012 06:56am | #10

   O.K., so we're talking about framing.

   If you want clear span framing, I think wood webbed floor trusses are the best option. The downside is that they'll be 22" to 24" deep. They'll be expensive.  But it's awfully nice not to have any posts in your garage/storage area.

   If you go to a truss manufacturer and tell them what you have in mind they can design somethign for you. Tell them it's a shop, and tell them what live loading you want.  Offhand I'd think 60 PSF would be plenty.

   If you want a center beam with 2x floor joists, you'll neeed to find span charts for whatever lumber is available in your area.  They're available online. Again, I'd suggest a 60 PSF live load.  You can come up with the size and spacing based on that.

   You might want to consider I-joists instead of 2x lumber. You'll have to find a place that can get them or stocks them. They may have span charts or software there. If not they'll know who to call to specify the type of I-joist and spacing.

   Any place that sells I-joists will also be able to get an LVL beam designed for you. If you need sealed drawings for them in your area they should know how to get those too.

3. 
   qori | Jan 18, 2012 01:04pm | #3

   Flooring for woodshop

   the woodshop will be located in VA.  My concern deals with the structure i need to use to support the equipment mentioned before based on the size and weight.  do i need 2x8 or 2x10 or 2x12.  as for the floor itself, it will be plywood. 

   the walls to the shop will be 2x6 and i will rough in the apartment on top to finish it later

   thanks

1. 
   calvin | Jan 18, 2012 04:53pm | #5

   qori, respectfully..................

   You need an engineer.

   or someone that can figure the calculations according to the weight of your equipment, the potential location of the equipment, the span and direction you will allow the joists to have according to your lower level layout and then while you're at it, the layout, loads etc of your upper floor, roof, windows doors................

   When you build, all these things interact to either hold it up or let it fall down.

   In other words, you need code approved plans figured out which will then tell you the size, length and position of ALL the framing.

   Things to think of:

   How much clear space do you NEED in the lower level, this holds up the shop floor and all that equipment.

   Interior stairs?  Where?  Lower to shop?  shop to apt.?

   Size of doors and their position-garage door(s)?  man doors?  Windows and their position? 

   Then you've got the separations between a garage/shop/living area.  There are firecodes and means of egress to think of.

   It isn't rocket science, but there's alot that goes into a building before the first nail is driven.

   Best of luck.

4. 
   [email protected] | Jan 18, 2012 06:10pm | #7

   Like Callvin Said

   You need to get this engineered. 

   You can save money on the fees if you do some leg work first. 

   Draw up the ideal shop, so they know what you want to put where.  Look up the weights and footprints of the machines.  If you can do at least a rough layout and floor plan of the final building, so the engineer knows what you want. 

   Decide how much you are willing to have the supports for the shop intrude into the lower level.  A single run of posts down the center?  Two rows of posts at ten feet on center?  A load bearing wall down the middle with a couple of passage doors? 

   The more you think this through, define the problem, and do the leg work, the less the engineer has to do, and charge you for. 

5. 
   qori | Jan 18, 2012 09:52pm | #8

   Flooring for woodshop

   to all who have responded to the question, THANKS!!!

   your ideas and concerns confirm the challenge i had while doing the research.  I will continue developing the design in general but will have to find an engineer to give me the final advice on the structure.

   thanks again to all

   Rico 

6. 
   DanH | Jan 18, 2012 10:43pm | #9

   Why don't you spend some time figuring out what equipement and supplies you might have (figure worst-case), and then search out the specs to see what sort of total weight and what weight concentrations you will be dealing with.  Will take a lot of guess-work out of sizing the floor framing.