Replies

1. 
   waynew | Apr 18, 2007 05:35pm | #1

   I'm sure someone must have come up against this problem before.

   I'd be happy to clarify if required..

   Thanks.

2. 
   MrSQL | Apr 18, 2007 07:37pm | #2

   these flooring nailers have a baseplate that determines where the "blind" nail goes.  i.e.

   • Thicker baseplate for thinner wood
   • Thinner baseplate for thicker wood
   • "no" baseplate for really thick wood

   You will need to determine if the nail length is good enough to hold into the substrate (I think at least 3/4" penetration would be required)

   you can also blind nail with a regular framing nailer [sort of like toe nailing].  This will probably be best as you can get 3" x 120 # 10 nails.

   Regards,

   Roger <><

    

1. 
   waynew | Apr 18, 2007 08:59pm | #3

   Thanks for the info Roger, I think the framing nailer sounds like the way to go then. Much perfer to get more penetration into the sleepers and take a little longer to do the job right.Much appreciated,Wayne

3. 
   FastEddie | Apr 18, 2007 09:34pm | #4

   I question the wisdom of using a framing nailer to blind nail t&g boards.  Unless you fully sink the head there are going to be problems getting the next board to fully seat and get a tight joint. 

   "Put your creed in your deed."   Emerson

   "When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it."  T. Roosevelt

1. 
   waynew | Apr 18, 2007 09:40pm | #5

   FastEddie, and your prefered method would be ?

1. 
   MrSQL | Apr 18, 2007 10:49pm | #8

   Fast Eddie does have a point about the countersinking.  Here's some info from my experience:

   framing nailers will generally countersink the nails (overdrive) if set with high enough pressure [especially in softer pines]

   some nailers like the new Hitachi nailer have an adjustment for nailing depth [nails the same clipped head, paper collated nails that my Senco FramePro nails]

   smooth shank framing nails are easier to get to countersink (I think it's because they go in with higher speed and less friction than the ring shank nails)

   The overdriving may cause the tongue to crack if you don't hold the nailer at the right angle (i.e. nailing through the tongue rather through the board just where the tongue meets the board)

   sometimes even if the nail head is a bit high, the next board will seat well enough (i.e. the softwood on the next board groove gives a bit around the nail when persuaded into place)

     

2. 
   FastEddie | Apr 18, 2007 11:27pm | #9

   A framing nailer might be the right tool, just be sure to sink the heads."Put your creed in your deed."   Emerson

   "When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it."  T. Roosevelt

1. 
   waynew | Apr 18, 2007 11:41pm | #10

   Fasteddie & Roger,Much appreciated, I think the best way forward from here is for me to do some test runs on scrap material to get the hang of it before starting on the floor. That way I'll know whether its going to work for me and will feel more confident doing the real thing.Thanks again,Wayne

4. 
   MikeHennessy | Apr 18, 2007 09:45pm | #6

   Never thought about this before. I guess the only 1-1/2" T&G I've seen was for roofs/ceilings, and they could be face nailed. Are these strips already milled, or are you making them? If the latter, you could simply keep the T&G offset so they would be within stock nailer range.

   Mike Hennessy
   Pittsburgh, PA

1. 
   waynew | Apr 18, 2007 09:55pm | #7

   Hi Mike,They were purchased milled.Wayne

5. 
   BoJangles | Apr 19, 2007 02:53am | #11

   We actually do a fair amount of this in camps and other more rustic buildings that we encounter from time to time.

   I just use a 15 gauge finish nailer held perpendicular to the length of the board and shoot 2 1/2" nails into the tongue as you would with regular t&g flooring.

   We use a ribbon of PL Premium about 3" long between the board and each joist ( the PL is centered on the width of the board )

   I debated this the first time we had to install this stuff and came up with this method and it has worked perfectly so far.

    

1. 
   waynew | Apr 19, 2007 09:08pm | #14

   BoJangles,Just a thought but with all the heavy traffic on this workshop floor could the PL Premium eventually crumble away (over a longer period of time) leaving a gap between the boards and sleepers?Regards,Wayne

1. 
   BoJangles | Apr 20, 2007 02:14am | #18

   PL Premium is bulletproof!

   Make sure you use a heavy enough bead to insure good bonding.

   A Bo Wrench for this job is the best money you will spend.  You press the boards into place and nail.  If you are nailing to open joists, use a couple of nails per joist.

   You can also easily hand nail using a nail and a punch.

   Be sure to start out with a straight board on a chalk line.

   Edited 4/19/2007 7:45 pm ET by BoJangles

   Edited 4/19/2007 7:48 pm ET by BoJangles

6. 
   handymanvan | Apr 19, 2007 03:14am | #12

   I used 2 3/8 ring shank on 5/4 flooring(full one inch) with my framing nailer with the no mar pad removed. Set the nailer to shoot deep and shoot at a 45 degree above the top of the tounge. A Bo Wrench might come in real handy for this job.

   Nobody is as good as they seem, nobody is as bad as they seem either.
1. 
   BoJangles | Apr 19, 2007 09:04pm | #13

   I forgot to mention that....a Bo Wrench is indispensible for this job!!

1. 
   waynew | Apr 19, 2007 09:12pm | #15

   >I forgot to mention that....a Bo Wrench is indispensible for this job!!

   I saw one in the recent Lee Valley catelogue, wasn't too expensive but I think I could make up some wedges to do the same thing. Either way its going to help get the boards nice and snug.I plan using pure tung oil as the finish as its non film forming yet relatively hard when dry, anyone got some thoughts on this.Here is a step by step for the tung oil: http://www.realmilkpaint.com/floortung.htmlWayne

   Edited 4/19/2007 2:20 pm ET by waynew

1. 
   FastEddie | Apr 19, 2007 09:53pm | #16

   Does pure tung oil or pure linseed oil ever dry?  I thought it stayed sticky for months."Put your creed in your deed."   Emerson

   "When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it."  T. Roosevelt

1. 
   waynew | Apr 19, 2007 10:26pm | #17

   I questioned this too but according to the article it takes about 10 days. Perhaps mixing the pure tung oil with 50% thinners is what makes the difference, along with following the procedure to a tee. From what I read in other articles its better to thin down too much that not enough. If anyone has direct experience with this I'd be really interested to get your comments.Wayne