Replies

1. 
   coonass | Jan 21, 2019 12:41pm | #1

   Modern,

   I am not exactly sure what you are doing but it is easy enough to glue down wood flooring to concrete.

   Ask at BT3 and you will get more answers.

   KK

1. 
   ModernHaus | Jan 21, 2019 12:50pm | #2

   Flooring Height Issue

   Thanks for the response. I guess I wasn't exactly clear. If I have floor-to-ceiling windows/doors and a "flush" concrete floor (For ease of maintenance with kids/it's economical now), I can't just install hardwood on top if I decide to go that route down the road. The hardwood would sit above the windows/doors, which wouldn't work, obviously. 

   I was wondering if anyone had any experience with this. I'm just trying to plan/think in advance. I'd rather learn the easy way than the hard way :).

1. 
   tguinn | Jan 21, 2019 04:17pm | #3

   Flooring options

   You might want to choose your finished flooring now, making sure the manufactuer says it's approved for radiant heat. When I built mine with radiant floor heat, some listed the max. temp allowed which could make a difference what you can possible use and still get enough heat out of the floor.

   I looked at the Hambro you mentioned, my only concern is how you would isolate the radiant heat,(making sure it went  up as well as down).

1. 
   ModernHaus | Jan 21, 2019 06:04pm | #4

   Check

   I am going with Warmboard (Upstairs) and they recommend Carlisle Hardwood Flooring (And Carlisle recommends Warmboard) and work with many other manufactures. Not saying they'll be around in 10-15 years, but if I rip out the concrete, I'd most likely go with them or a similar company if they're no longer around. My concern is not liking concrete floors a year in; I would have to flip over to hardwood floors. I wasn't sure if - through the wealth of your knowledge - there was an easier way than chipping out concrete and building up the floor from there. Seems like that's my only option. 

   I was thinking of Hambro with a 6" RC Slab (Or whatever the engineers call for) then 4" of EPS then 3" (Or whatever the engineers call for) of concrete, where the hydronic heat would be placed. That way, I can chip out the top layer of concrete and throw the Warmboard panels on top if I go to hardwood. But hey, who knows, maybe I'll like the concrete floors! Just trying to plan in advance. 

1. 
   tguinn | Jan 22, 2019 10:14am | #5

   When i did mine, i considered placing the tubes on top of the wood subfloor, then using a lightweight concrete mix approx 1 1/2 - 2" thick on top of that so i didn't have to try to heat all the way through the subfllor. That limited my flooring options at the time.

   Are you using a heating contractor for the radiant heat placement? I would ask them what they think before i got too far into it, I had alot of discussions with mine, and years later found that there alot of things to consider.

   Since you are using ICF, that should isolate your inside floor, keeping it from radiating sideways towards the outside. Most of the time if you are using concrete with encapuslated tubes in the concrete, water temps should be in the 85-100 degree range max. If you have a finished floor that insulates it too much, you won't get the temps needed to heat the room.

   I would suggest finding a reputable dealer  for radiant that you like, they should be able to calculate heat load, required BTU's and temps required to heat the room.

2. 
   calvin | Jan 22, 2019 01:50pm | #6

   T

   Most of the time if you are using concrete with encapuslated tubes in the concrete, water temps should be in the 85-100 degree range max.

   With hose embedded in concrete, tile finish....are you sure about this range?  I’ve heard of lower temps with a wood floor as finish.  Where did you get the info?

   thanks

3. 
   tguinn | Jan 22, 2019 03:34pm | #7

   That,s where your load calculations come into play based on heat loss, windows floor coverings, avg. temp, etc.

   That range is the max. it can be lower if needed, mine measures 95 degrees entering the concrete slab, and the loops under the wood subfloor average 150 degrees

4. 
   calvin | Jan 22, 2019 09:06pm | #8

   well isn’t that something, we have the flip side, 125 in the slab and under upper bath ply subfloor w/tile.  On one install with hose in gypcrete atop original concrete with bamboo finish, under 100.  The wood flooring manufacturer determined the allowable temp.

   I realize the layout and concentration of the hose along with the set temp are what are used to reach the desired comfort level.

   Only time I’ve heard of boiler temp as high as 150 was for baseboard, radiator, or using the boiler to heat the domestic hot water tank.

   This is why I asked as our situations seem directly opposite.

   thanks

2. 
   DoRight | Jan 24, 2019 01:20pm | #9

   Seems like you answered your own question.  You CAN't add hardwood later if the doors are flush with the concrete.

   Ok, I will bite.  When it comes time to add the wood floors grind the concrete down to accomadate the thickness of teh wood.