I’ve recently installed a floating laminate floor. The floor I installed is level but the tile floor I’m adjoining to isn’t level. I’m using a wood transition strip & the sub-floor is concrete. I have two questions; 1.) whats the best technique for installing this transition strip so that it’s flush across the floor? 2.) How do I fasten the transition strip considering the subfloor is concrete. I would assume glue, but do I glue it the the laminate and tile flooring?
Discussion Forum
Discussion Forum
Up Next
Video Shorts
Featured Story
Hover's smartphone app offers an easier way to get precise 3D scans.
Featured Video
Highlights
"I have learned so much thanks to the searchable articles on the FHB website. I can confidently say that I expect to be a life-long subscriber." - M.K.
Fine Homebuilding Magazine
Fine Home Building
Follow
-
Fine Homebuilding
Dig into cutting-edge approaches and decades of proven solutions with total access to our experts and tradespeople.
Start Free Trial Now -
GBA Prime
Get instant access to the latest developments in green building, research, and reports from the field.
Start Free Trial Now
- Home Group
- Antique Trader
- Arts & Crafts Homes
- Bank Note Reporter
- Cabin Life
- Cuisine at Home
- Fine Gardening
- Fine Woodworking
- Green Building Advisor
- Garden Gate
- Horticulture
- Keep Craft Alive
- Log Home Living
- Military Trader/Vehicles
- Numismatic News
- Numismaster
- Old Cars Weekly
- Old House Journal
- Period Homes
- Popular Woodworking
- Script
- ShopNotes
- Sports Collectors Digest
- Threads
- Timber Home Living
- Traditional Building
- Woodsmith
- World Coin News
- Writer's Digest
Replies
Just did one with a floating eng. wood floor to tile, on concrete. Left room for the movement in the wood (gap between the tile and wood) of about and inch. Glued and screwed a 1/2" plywood backer to the concrete. Glued and nailed the transition that lipped over both the wood and tile, to that. Had to cheat the tile side of the transition (tipped it a bit) to provide an even looking placement. Do not fill up the gap between the floating floor and tile. Don't want to limit seasonal movement.
I agree. I often make custom maple or oak transitions that are stained to match the flooring or the trim that is already there. The only thing that I do differently is drill countersunk, counterbored holes in the transition piece so that I can screw it down and plug the holes -- just in case I have to come back at a later date to make repairs to damaged flooring or in case the owner changes the flooring in the adjacent room. (I admit that nailing probably works as well, but I don't want to risk breaking these custom transitions; they aren't cheap.)
I agree with you whole heartedly on the screws and plugs for the non break install. However, removal later isn't an easy task.
Doing one with floating
Running into the same problem with existing tile that has a 7/8" belly, transitioned to floating laminate in the same room. What shape and size of transition strip did you use? Would rubber be easier for a less custom application?
Ik
Belly? an arc belly or a hump belly?
I used (modified) a transition that came to match the eng. wood floor. Beautiful pc that with a little shaping on the underside, ended up sweet.
I made some for other less homogenous areas that didn't come close to stock offerings. I used poplar for these and stained to match.
If an arc, you might used a wider transition and work most of the non straight arc out of it by cutting the lip in more as you go.
If a hump, same deal-use a thicker transition but cut down it's height where the hump isn't as bad. Make it appear the same on the top and reveal on the high side.