Replies

1. 
   davidmeiland | Aug 12, 2010 10:30pm | #1

   Lots of shoring

   You support the floor joists by building a temporary wall under them a few feet inside the room.

   You support the wall above by lagging a beam to the wall studs. Two choices... one is to lag the beam to the outside of the studs and install temporary posts down to grade to support it. Or... you lag the beam to the inside of the wall studs and support it using the floor, which you are supporting from below. 

   Either way, decide whether or not you need to pre-position the new beam before you get all the shoring in your way.

1. 
   haldi | Aug 12, 2010 11:47pm | #2

   shoring

   thanks Dave.

   My plan was to lag bolt something big like a 2x10 to the outside of the studs on the upper wall and post down at a slight angle to give myself just enough room to slide my beam in place.

1. 
   davidmeiland | Aug 13, 2010 12:40am | #3

   You're

   hired!

   I always add some metal straps to my temporary posts and whatnot. I know some guys who had the new beam get out of control and knock out their shoring. 

1. 
   haldi | Aug 13, 2010 12:59pm | #4

   flush beam

   Thanks Boss!

   Now I have to decide on the beam itself.

   The engineer gave me 2 ways to go.

   I think I'll post a new thread to seek some coment on that

2. 
   calvin | Aug 13, 2010 03:24pm | #5

   You might want to keep it here

   All related to 'flush beam'.  Might be something in the size/configuration of the beam that will add to the installation advice.

1. 
   haldi | Aug 13, 2010 09:59pm | #6

   keep it here

   I had two ways to go on this beam. Originally it was drawn as a steel I beam. I asked for an alternate flitch plate of MLams and steel. he came up with a 4 microlam 3 pieces of steel sandwich.

   My choice was the cheaper, heavier, I beam or the more expensive but easier to handle (for a 3 man crew), built up flitch beam.

   I got on the horn to price it today, and was told by my steel supplier that the flat bar steel I needed is only available 20' lengths .The beam needs to be 22'.  So now I have to go with the I Beam. at almost 800lbs.

2. 
   calvin | Aug 14, 2010 05:58am | #7

   800.........

   Yow, as a one man crew I would be seeking more than information...............

   Best of luck.

   Does site access allow you any equipment to make this easier?  And I suppose staggered seams in the available steel won't cut it.

3. 
   davidmeiland | Aug 14, 2010 10:55am | #8

   I would look for

   an alternate to the steel flitch plate. The engineer should be looking up the available choices and should know the lengths. I seriously doubt the mill is producing them at 20 feet... probably more like 40-60 feet. 

   Also, look into "Better Header" beams and "Lite Steel Beams" using Google. The salespeople from both of those outfits will size their products for you using info you already have from the engineer.

4. 
   haldi | Aug 14, 2010 08:50pm | #9

   I was told by 1 steel supplier that 5/8" x 9" flat steel only comes 20'. On Monday I will verify with another. I also will contact architect, and ask why specified a 22' flitch plate beam, if the steel only comes 20'.

   As for Lite Steel, On their website under loads, a 10" beam at 20' only handles 208lbs /ft. at L480. At 22' I would need at least 7 of those to do the job.

   I am resigned to the fact that steel is the answer and will look into renting a genie to help me hump it into place.

   Thanks for all the comments,

   Haldi

5. 
   davidmeiland | Aug 15, 2010 12:15am | #10

   I've used

   I-beams several times and they handle loads that wood will not handle without getting too big. You can probably pack your beam out with a single 2x to nail the hangers to, and chunks behind it to bring it out to the right plane. No need to layer 3 pieces. Usually the engineer can do a quick calc and determine that the bottom flange alone is enough to carry the joists. Have the steel supplier punch holes for you.

6. 
   haldi | Aug 15, 2010 04:46pm | #11

   I Beam

   I'm going to pack out an I beam. get the web punched with holes. I'll have 3 7/8" on each side of the web to pack out, and like you said I may use blocks behind the 2x10 face.

   But I will check the folks at Better Header. they make a packed I-beam ready to go, but looking at their charts I don't see a 10"  W beam beefy enough. They do say they will make custom size. I'll call, they don't even say where to buy these or where they will deliver to.

7. 
   Piffin | Aug 16, 2010 04:27pm | #12

   Welders can make that flitch longer

8. 
   davidmeiland | Aug 16, 2010 11:20pm | #13

   I would need

   a welding inspector to observe that, believe it or not.

   $$$$

2. 
   Clewless1 | Aug 21, 2010 09:54am | #14

   You didn't detail a description of what you need to support. What is the new beam for? Supporting new roof/ceiling joists/trusses? Supporting the ends of old 2nd floor joists? Supporting a bearing wall above?

   Is the wall a bearing wall ... or an end wall in a gable roof. Do the existing 2nd floor joists run parallel to the wall?

   Temporary support should be comensurate w/ the amount of loading on that wall (if any). Don't overdo something that may not need to be overdone. So understanding the loads first is important in strategizing your temp support.