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Tool Crib of the North (maybe others too) has an adapter for a Milwaukee circular saw that allows cutting flush to a vertical surface. I think it’s $89. I wouldn’t mind going for that (can’t seem to find one for rent) but I really don’t need to buy a Milwaukee circular saw too.
Are these available for any other brands? Would this one, while specced for Milwaukee, fit any other brands? What I have is DeW 7 1/4. Would any of the trim saws work? I only need about 3/8 of cut depth for this project. Is the new Fein detail sander with saw attachment an option for this?
What’s the used tool market like for Milwaukee circular saws? I could scout the flea markets, but most folks seem to hold on to their Milwaukee stuff forever.
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Well guys, did this message get missed during the recent crash or is this something nobody's dealt with. I found a 'toe kick' flush cutting saw in the catalogs; it accomplishes the same thing as the Milwaukee adapter but obviously has a smaller dia. blade; but again around $200.
The problem is a sheet vinyl + 1/4 underlayment over an original hardwood floor goes under a built-in. I'd like not to have to remove the built-in and to be able to cut the stuff back flush to it. I'm not excited about doing that with a mallet & chisel.
I suppose a long, flexible blade in a recip. saw might do it, but depth control would be all touchy-feely.
Any other suggestions? TIA.
*Bosch has a brand new flush cutting saw on the market; as I recall it can also fit in a mitre box. I just went looking for the review I saw, but I can't find it. Not so great as a mitre saw, I remember, but great for flooring installers (trimming jambs flush with the finished floor). It means another tool, but one you may need again. Worth a look maybe.
*I asked a similar question a few months ago, might be in the archives. It was recommended that i try the recip. saw with a milwaukee blade called the axe. I ended up finding a place that would rent the toe kick saw(25 per day) and it worked well, except in the corners where i used the recip saw. I first cut the plywood out as close to the cabinet as i could get with a regular circ. saw, and i think that helped. Im thinking of getting that flush cut adapter too, but it wouldnt work under the toekick. They have one to fit makita saws too. Hope you dont have to do much with the chisel, ive done it that way too and its not fun.
*Well, with no great desire I tackled the job with hand tools. Cut the sheetgoods away with a utility knife; vertical chisel cut at the vertical surface; angled chisel cut to meet it, removed the waste; cut with the ultility knife at the base of the vertical surface in the chisel cut; and the underlayment lifted and snapped off cleanly at the cut! Turned out not to be such a big deal. Of course I was lucky not to hit a single nail along the cut line.Saw the new Bosch saw today. Looks kind of like a powered back saw. Probably great for cutting the bottom off jambs. I don't think I'd want to have to cut too much flooring with it.
*DScott Sorry about the timing. When I've run into this situtation before, I've used a 4" Milwaukee grinder with a Makita carbine trim blade. It not the type of tool you want the help to use and keep your insurance, but in a pinch, it does work.
*Actually the timings not so bad. This nights and weekends DIY job goes on and on. This month's chore is an adjoing room to be turned into a laundry. The old floor (VCT over 5/8 ply) has to come up so the 3/4 oak can come through the threhhold from the other room and a new tile floor go down in the laundry. Yesterday's demo reveals that the partition wall opposite the door wnet in as an afterthought. The drywall and 5/8 underlayment were down before the partition went up. So I may have another flush cut to do.The chisel was OK for the 1/4 in the other room but 5/8 is a chore. Thanks for the suggestion. I've rigged my angle grinder with a diamond blade fro stone and tile but never thought of a trim blade. Are they rated for that kind of RPM's? I can deal with handling the thing without guides and guards but not a blade flying apart. A guess no separate carbide teeth would be a good idea. Thanks again.
*DScott,Have you seen the Crain toe kick saw? I have one that is about 7-8 years old. Sort of a hybrid thing between a length of carpet stretching tube, a BD drill and a cheezy spring loaded guard with a special 3" or so carbide blade. Hold on tite, pucker the spincter and hope you don't hit a nail! Worked fine and you could pound the carbide blade back to flat many times before you had to change it [blade-$20.00-throwaways]. It was standard fare in the not so olden days for us to remove the subfloor down to the bare floor joists, scab on ledgers and fill in between the joists with ply so we could fit in a 1 1/8" mud bed and marble or granite.I would definitely say that as much demo as it sounds like you do, it would be a wise investment. I believe at the time I paid about $230.00 for the tool. Don't take much banged up cabinet framing or chisel time to pay for it.
*Sorry I'm so late...You need a Crain jamb saw in your arsenal. Check with a large carpet suppy house. They can get you one. I don't need mine all the time, but when I do....jj, I didn't know there was such a thing as a "toe kick" saw. I'll have to check into that one. Anything that will pucker my a** has my attention.Ed. Williams
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Tool Crib of the North (maybe others too) has an adapter for a Milwaukee circular saw that allows cutting flush to a vertical surface. I think it's $89. I wouldn't mind going for that (can't seem to find one for rent) but I really don't need to buy a Milwaukee circular saw too.
Are these available for any other brands? Would this one, while specced for Milwaukee, fit any other brands? What I have is DeW 7 1/4. Would any of the trim saws work? I only need about 3/8 of cut depth for this project. Is the new Fein detail sander with saw attachment an option for this?
What's the used tool market like for Milwaukee circular saws? I could scout the flea markets, but most folks seem to hold on to their Milwaukee stuff forever.