Replies

1. 
   WayneL5 | Sep 18, 2003 06:03pm | #1

   Gee, it sticks like crazy so it's not a whacky thought.  Don't forget it swells with great pressure, and keeps swelling for days, and can easily bow your jambs so the windows won't operate.  It would be tricky to pull off.

   I assumed you're talking about polyurethane foam.  The latex foam is not sticky nor strong.

2. 
   Clay | Sep 18, 2003 06:36pm | #2

   I do it all the time, doors too.  I don't like to depend totally on foam or any adhesive system so I usually try to get some key points fastened mechanically.  Cement is easy to get anchors into but brick and block can be tricky.  I use a variety of anchoring techniques but often will set a dowel into a driill hole (I glue them in with Gorilla glue) to get a bite for a screw.  Brick seems to be best handled by using soft tubing for expansion sleeves for screws.   Brace and or put in spacer shims till the foam is cured so that it doesn't push jambs in too tightly.

3. 
   kostello | Sep 18, 2003 10:42pm | #3

   yeah i've even put a door frame in with it once .

   the brickwork was in bits.

   the doors still hanging several years on.

   you've got to brace everything really well as the foam will push everthing out of square very easily.

   if you wet the surfaces first by misting them with watrer the foam sets faster

   aleks

1. 
   dc1874 | Sep 18, 2003 11:08pm | #4

   great..thanks for the info!!can anyone recomened one type of foam over another??

1. 
   joeh | Sep 18, 2003 11:30pm | #5

   This is the stuff. http://www.dow.com/pusystems/product/efprod.htm

   This is the place to get it. http://www.icfpro.com/proshop/enter.html?target=Adhesives.html

   Joe H

2. 
   kostello | Sep 18, 2003 11:49pm | #6

   if you're only going to be using a fairly small aomount get a can of solvent(acetone i think) too as it will clean the nozzle of the can and any spills on yourself or on the window etc....

   its much easier to clean it off before its cured than after

   aleks

4. 
   timberline | Sep 19, 2003 12:30am | #7

   I have used this system for years when installing windows and doors into masonry and wood openings.  I use the low expansion polyurethane foam.  Make sure it is the low expansion foam.  It still expands but is more manageable.  When doing windows i make sure that they are closed and latched.  When doing doors I put a cardboard shim - drywall shim - between the door and the jamb so that nothing has an opportunity to change.  If the clearance is less than the shim they are easy to peel off the right thickness so that you can hold the clearance.  Try one first so that you get the hang of it before you do the whole house.  I started doing this in 1992 and have never had a call back.

5. 
   mdresimprov | Sep 19, 2003 04:08am | #8

   Some thoughts:

   1) Their are window manufactures out there who void the warranty if foam is used.

   2) Someone suggested Acetone for cleanup. If is has a wood exterior this maybe OK, but no way for a painted extruded metal cladding. Ask an auto body shop what ecetone will do to a finish.

   3) I've used the wood dowels as someone suggested. They are excellent. Also masonry anchors with GRK (torx head) screws work well.

   4) Always shim the door/window plumb, level and square before anchoring. Don't depend on nailing flanges alone.

1. 
   Piffin | Sep 19, 2003 04:26am | #9

   enerfoam and the low expansion foams are actually glues more than expanding foams. Enerfoam was developed as a sheetrock adhesive.

   I wouldn't asay I do this all the time or that I like to but it has a place. Not that I would want to have it in the path of Isabelle..

   Excellence is its own reward!

6. 
   Davo304 | Sep 19, 2003 06:26am | #10

   I have used foam at times when installing both doors and windows; along with mechanical fasteners as well. It can swell your window/door frame out of square so you must be careful...there are new foams on the market designed not to be as destructive...it's labeled as a door/window foam.

   One thing though, don't use this type of system on glass block windows...it will work just fine, BUT, the sunlight shining through the glass block will also disintegrate the foam and turn it black. The windows won't look too pretty after a few months of sunlight. As long as the foam will be hidden from sunlight...such as installing jamb stops that cover the foamed area...then you'll be OK...otherwise...those glass block windows will only look good when sighted directly head-on...any side angle view will reveal black colored sidewalls.

   Just my 2 cents.

   Davo