Replies

1. 
   WayneL5 | Apr 23, 2004 01:08am | #1

   I don't know of a good hardware source, but have the following suggestions.

   If the table folds up instead of down, you can make braces pinned to each end of the table that slide up and down which form a 45° brace when the table is down.

   Be careful on the height.  It may need to be shorter for her use and stowage than you might be inclined to mount it for you.  Particle board is quite heavy, and it sags, besides.  I'd recommend birch plywood.  In my opinion the extra few bucks would be worth the weight savings for this particular client.  The latching mechanism needs to be so safe that arthritic hands can't lose control and drop the table.  Maybe rounded corners, too.

2. 
   aimless | Apr 23, 2004 01:20am | #2

   My 1950's era sewing table has a 1/2" square metal arm that swings out under the wood to support it when unfolded. It seems pretty sturdy to me and has similar dimensions to the folding table you are building, although in my case the support is from the short end and it extends out long. When done it slides back into a slot in the table base. If they don't still make such hardware, then you could probably cannibalize a couple of old sewing tables for it.

3. 
   SgianDubh | Apr 23, 2004 02:26am | #3

   Häfele have three different models, cat. no's. 568.65.700, 568.65.100, 568.66.700, or 568.60.710. In US tel 800-423-3531. Slainte.

   RJFurniture

4. 
   archyII | Apr 23, 2004 03:20am | #4

   I would be concerned about the weight of the table.  A 24x36 piece of particule board maybe kind of heavy for an 85 year old woman.  Cut a piece an see if she can lift it.

5. 
   DanH | Apr 23, 2004 05:58am | #5

   There are several special locking hinges and props available, but they tend to be fairly hard to operate.

   You can make your own, easier-operating unit, using three hinges and two pieces of wood. (There are two or three basic configurations.) The trick is getting the geometry right.

6. 
   gdcarpenter | Apr 23, 2004 06:32am | #6

   My suggestion, forget the piano hinge, I find them a pain, plus you still need brackets.  Get a pair of folding shelf brackets from Rockler, part no. 65806.   they are rated at 750 lb. a pair, open and fold up easy.  Have been using them for a chop saw mount on my trailer for over a year, even cutting the heavy ends of 10' 6x6's (as opposed to cutting the light end) and they stand up.  They are 16" long but will carry a 24" deep shelf nicely.  I've also ordered them through ACE hardware.

   Let's not confuse the issue with facts!

7. 
   AdamB | Apr 23, 2004 06:17pm | #7

   I have a different way to go....  This is someone that might have arthritis, and probably is kind of on the weak side.

   Here is a bad drawing of one I did for my grandmother.

   The magnetic catch is just to make sure that the shelf doesn't come crashing down.  It doesn't have to be very strong

   There is about 2 ounces of lift required to put the self back in this position.  This is to make sure the shelf doesn't spring back up by itself.

   The pulley and counterweight is actualy in the wall but the next one I do it will be all exposed and just in a slot that has a door over it.  The drawing doesn't say but the pulley counterweight system is actually behind the shelf in the wall.

   The two legs are tapered and have some hinges installed in such a manner that they drop down when the shelf is pulled on...

   Adam

   Edit to try to add pic.....

   edit to try to add pic... I was trying to just paste the pic in the message but I guess I will have to attach it.  aaaag... no I cant do that have to post another one
   

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   Edited 4/23/2004 11:18 am ET by AdamB

   
   

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   Edited 4/23/2004 11:20 am ET by AdamB

1. 
   AdamB | Apr 23, 2004 06:23pm | #8

   ok try 3Adam

8. 
   UncleDunc | Apr 23, 2004 07:13pm | #9

   Gas springs would be another possibility.

9. 
   CapnMac | Apr 23, 2004 07:46pm | #10

   I've always liked folding up rather than down, as it (seems) like you are building a weakness where you want strength (you don't want to collapse the table surface in use, but it has to be easy to collapse).

   I'd use butt hinges over the piano hinge, if only for whoever comes along later to fix/repair/renovate the table.  I agree with the idea of birch ply, too; but my first choice would be laminate-covered fir ply (same strength, but a bit less weight).

   I'd use a ledger board to take the butt hinges, this will provide additional strenght at the wall connection (which might be needed if there are grandkids about, like on a rainy day).  Since, you'd rather not have legs, use a traingular brace hinged to the underside of the table surface (where I would use piano hinges).  That way, folding the table down lets the braces drop open by gravity (though a cleat or two on the wall would not go amiss).

   Magnetic catches to hold folded are good, but a touch-latch might be better for opening the table.

   Or not, just my opinion.

   Occupational hazard of my occupation not being around (sorry Bubba)