I’m moving a laundry room and taking the formica clad cabinets and rehanging them on what would be the opposite wall if I stayed in the same room. The problem is that the side that was tight to the wall has a filler piece attached to the cabinet and a full piece of formica to cover the face frame and all seams–now I’ve turned the cabinet so the end with the filler piece is exposed. My question is, how do I cut the filler piece off without chipping up the formica?
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Use a heat gun to melt the glue between the formica & the filler, pull the filler off the cabinet, must be nailed, stapled or screwed, & then trim the formica with a router.
That work's fine to.
Two things I' want to make sure with this method.
Don't burn the mica (take yout time)
, and glue it back before trimming.
YCF Dino
many ways you can cut the mica. The first one is to score it with a utility knife first.(few times) and use an edge guide and a circular saw.Cut 1/8 before the scoring line and continue with a belt sander holding the sander with the belt pushing and not lifting the mica.(vertical)
The other way is to use an edge guide and a circular saw with a good blade. You can lower the blade only enough to cut the mica and cut backwards one time then reset your edge 1/64 and cut again with the blade adjusted to the depth of the filler + 1/4.
In the picture's bellow is another way,but in your case (one filler)you can do with out it. just take your time with the offset measurements..and good luck.
YCF Dino
View Image
View Image
Clamp a straightedge on the frame for the setback of your circular saw.Install a sharp combination blade with at least 40 teeth. Score formica by setting saw blade for 1/8" projection and pull saw backwards against the fence. Then set blade for depth, 1/4" or so more than frame thickness.Saw as you normally do ,pushing saw. You will get a clean cut without chipping, no need to tape, score with knife or any other precautions.When pulling saw backwards, you have to raise guard slightly. Keep it raised so the guard does not mar the surface.
mike
The first time I' cut mica like that, I' was so proud.. until the homeowner notice the mark's on the surface from the saw base. On the picture's above nothing but blade come's in contact with the surface. Left and right of the blade is plastics antichips that preventing the surface from lifting up.
in this case I' will go as far taping the mica to eliminate the scratches's.
Thanks for remind me of m screw-up's.
Time for another coffee?
YCF Dino
Edited 11/27/2004 8:41 am ET by YCFriend
Scratches could be from the guard too, if you let the guard down after starting cut it rubs the surface. I should have said to use a straightedge that is composed of a piece of masonite or 1/4"plywood, and a straight piece of 1x attached to it. This takes care of any marring ,either from sawbase or guard.I used to tape, score etc, until I had a job in a hospital where we hung about 400 doors. They were plastic laminate covered, stock doors. All had to be cut for height. After cutting a few doors I thought there had to be an easier way. I have used a scoring saw in a shop, got me thinking how to score a door and then cut it. Came up with this idea that I have used since early 70's. Works great on veneered panels, formica and even wood doors without chipping bottom.
mike
Mike. don't give all your ideas away.We may go out of business.
Your way make's a lot sense. I' use it for few years my self. And after the scoring backwards I' reset the edge guide just a bit. (just in case) For someone new I' will suggest both hands at the saw and lower the blade only 1/8''. It can be dangerous if your blade is lower more than 1/4"" and you cut backwards with the other hand holding the straight edge.
YCF Dino
You can use a 'down-cut' blade in a jig saw, just be sure to go slow, and anchor the front of the saw foot with you free hand, those blade are a little jumpy. this bit is designed to do the job you're doing, or for sink cut-outs. They will not chip the mica.
Another option is to use a flush-cut bit in a router. This will work best of all methods, unless there is a rough surface on the blank end.
After trimming, take the sharp edge off the mica with a flat bastrd.
Reminds me of the woman who went to the store for a file...salesman says " here we have a flat bastard"she replies " i kinda like the round muther f**ker better"
Spheramid Enterprises Architectural Woodworks
Repairs, Remodeling, Restorations.
Excellent advice from all. The project was pulled off flawlessly by combining several steps and techniques -- first I scored the surface with my Knack knife against a straraight edge. Blue tape went down on the good side of the score, and covered any surface that my circular saw would come in contact with. Next, I clamped the straight edge 5" away from my cut line, set the 40 tooth blade in my circular saw to 1/8" depth and ran it backwards against the straight edge, then ran the saw forward (depth set 1/4" below bottom of plywood). The cut was so nice, no additional work was necessary... except for hanging it.
Thanks!
LOL! Good one.
Isn't there a joke about a woman shopping for a didlo in a sex toy store, and she picked the clerks plaid thermos?
Yeah, it did turn out to be the Thermos (big, silver and similarly shaped), but I think she was told it was backordered.I worry about those stores that have dildos and fireworks on the same shelf.
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."
Wow, I didn't think knots would let that word through(dildo), hence my funny spelling.
I wasn't sure it would, either, but I suppose they can be made of wood, so.....I figured that maybe it was a Spellchecker thing. Maybe we should call them something else from now on. (B.O.B. comes to mind)
"I cut this piece four times and it's still too short."