Replies

1. 
   RalphWicklund | Dec 28, 2005 02:04am | #1

   For drilling through framing members, top plates included, I would have picked up a spade bit instead of a Forstner. Forstners are primarily used where you need to have a neat flat bottomed hole that doesn't go all the way through, such as when setting balusters.

   Costs less, too.

   Hex shank is on the spade bit. Keeps it from spinning in the chuck when you use it hard and also fits the quick click or fast change tool. None of my Forstners have a hex shank.

1. 
   Nuke | Dec 28, 2005 02:28am | #3

   I would tend to agree on the spade bits unless you run into a need of drilling through a top-plate of a 9" knee wall and then a subfloor, and then a bottom plate above. There just isn't sufficient room for the stem on the spade blade. Also figured I could always add to my collection of Forstner bits, which up until today I had none.

   BTW, you hit the nail on the head regarding a smooth shank on this Freud Forstner bit and spinning the chuck.

   Mark, I hadn't thought about an auger. Back to HD ...

1. 
   RalphWicklund | Dec 28, 2005 04:57am | #8

   Tight fit for standard shank drill bit with ordinary drill?

   You need another tool.

   Right now!

   No excuses!

   http://www.tylertool.com/mi0312inclqu.html

1. 
   MarkH | Dec 28, 2005 05:04am | #9

   Nah, he needs a holehawg!

2. 
   CAGIV | Dec 28, 2005 10:32pm | #18

   Come on Ralph,  he need's a real drill

   http://www.tylertool.com/mi1612inhodr.html

1. 
   DanH | Dec 28, 2005 10:45pm | #19

   That ain't no drill. Now the hydraulic one I saw 'em using to core a 10 inch hole through about 15 inches of concrete -- now THAT'S a drill!
   If ignorance is bliss why aren't more people

   happy?

2. 
   MarkH | Dec 28, 2005 02:06am | #2

   I never tried a forstner bit in a hand drill. I'd get a ship auger if you're drilling framing.

3. 
   DanH | Dec 28, 2005 02:53am | #4

   To answer your original question, it doesn't matter that much whether round or hex for smaller diameter Forstners. You get up into the 2 inch range and you start wanting hex.

   I too wouldn't pick a Forstner as my first choice for rough drilling (though I've been known to use one in a pinch). The Forstner's really intended for relatively "fine" drilling, or for blind holes. A spade bit will cut more agressively in framing lumber (and is cheaper to boot).

   Of course, a spade bit can take your arm off if grabs while you're using a big-adzed drill. A Forstner is less apt to grab. I have seen bits for drilling framing that were kind of a hybrid between Forstner and spade -- supposedly less apt to grab.

   If ignorance is bliss why aren't more people

   happy?

1. 
   Nuke | Dec 28, 2005 05:05am | #10

   Dan, you are correct about a spade grabbing and torquing your hand off. I swore I almost did that once with a 1-1/2" spade going through seom 2x6 studs. Damn, you'd think those studs were heart of pine or something. Whenever I got to the end of the wood the spade would grab, I'd hold onto the drill and something from a circus event ending with me holding my wrist in pain for weeks.

4. 
   BossHog | Dec 28, 2005 02:58am | #5

   I've used Freud forstner bits in hand held drills a lot of times. Once the bit has started it's not a problem.

   Never had any problem with the bit spinning in the chuck.

   The only downdside I know of is that these bits aren't AT ALL tolerant of nails. One hit on a nail and the bit is ruined.

   I personally have had little luck with spade bits. They don't seem to hold an edge or drill very fast.

   I would suggest an auger bit if you're drilling top plates and such. They cut well and don't dull as easily as spade bits.

   As a computer, I find your faith in technology amusing.
5. 
   PhillGiles | Dec 28, 2005 03:07am | #6

   IMHO, what you really want is an electrian's bit, or better yet, a Greenlee Naileater II. I've seen both in HD, the Naileater comes in an 8" version and an 18" version.

   .
   Phill Giles
   The Unionville Woodwright
   Unionville, Ontario
6. 
   rasconc | Dec 28, 2005 03:25am | #7

   HD has a three piece Ridgid set in their current paper ad.  It has 5/8, 3/4, 1" with quick change hex.  

   http://homedepot.shoplocal.com/homedepot/default.aspx?action=detail&flashbrowse=y&storeid=2398669&rapid=215535&pagenumber=11&listingid=-2096004842&ref=%2fhomedepot%2fdefault.aspx%3faction%3dbrowsepageflash%26storeid%3d2398669%26pagenumber%3d11%26rapid%3d215535%26prvid%3dhd-051225-t122505

   View Image

     I have a handfull of DeWalt short ship augers I got on ebay. Also have bunch of the DW spade bits that have the outer edge corner sharpened, sort of the reverse of the Irwin with the points.  Either do a great job.  Milwaukee has some pretty neat "steerable" ones that can drill an arc shaped hole.  They are "Pathfinder" by name.

   Not the one I was talking about but this is great but pricey.

   http://www.milwaukeeconnect.com/webapp/wcs/stores/servlet/ProductDisplay?storeId=27&catalogId=40027&langId=-1&productId=283409&mainCategoryId=127418&secondRefNum=189326&thirdRefNum=189604&firstHeader=Accessories&secondCatName=Wood+Bits&subCategoryHeader=Wood+Bits&thirdCatHeader=Selfeed+Bits&fromCatalog=Y

    

1. 
   Nuke | Dec 28, 2005 05:08am | #11

   I did see those, but I didn't really know how they differed. Hey, me newbie. Haha. I'll have to go get those 'boring' bits.

   Hey Ralph, I just cannot justify a right-angled drill. I did see Vermont American had a right-angled 'kit' that adapts to any drill, though. That was $30.

   Nothing like another solid reason to go buy more stuff. I'm waiting for the wife to revoke my FH membership.

1. 
   RalphWicklund | Dec 28, 2005 05:46am | #12

   <<I just cannot justify >>

   Hey, this is a family site.

   Just because it has more than four letters doesn't mean it's not one of those "forbidden" words.

   "JUSTIFY" will get you banned from the tool junkie guild.

2. 
   DanH | Dec 28, 2005 07:58am | #13

   Note that the right-angle drill can be dangerous -- it can take your arm off faster than a regular drill if the bit grabs.
   If ignorance is bliss why aren't more people

   happy?

7. 
   plumbbill | Dec 28, 2005 08:25am | #14

   Here is one of my favorites

    

   Yup it's 4 & 5/8" diameter

   
1. 
   Nuke | Dec 28, 2005 03:37pm | #16

   That looks like a whole saw with two teeth for removing the middle material (which a whole saw doesn't have). Interesting, and I did see that at HD, but as someone else pointed out it wasn't cheap.

1. 
   RalphWicklund | Dec 28, 2005 06:08pm | #17

   At times the spade bit is not long enough to get through all the material piled one on another, so to avoid having to buy the set of bits that has the extra long shank, which in some cases is too long to fit into the space allowed even with a right angle drill, I will use a hole saw to take out a core of the 2x4 so the chuck of the drill fits in right down to the next 2x4, as in top plates.

   This get me an extra 1 1/2", does not affect the integrity of the framing and the standard spade bit makes it through.

   Those ship's augers are nice, but long. My electrician uses them like a plumber uses a sawzall. And neither cleans up after themselves.<G>

2. 
   plumbbill | Dec 29, 2005 08:40am | #20

   There self feeding bits that pic was a milwaukee 4&5/8" awsome on wood.

   & no there not cheap at all.

   I throw alot of bits away when they get dull but not these I sharpen them untill I can't sharpen them any more.

   Last time I bought a plumbers bit kit with 3/4" 1&1/8" 1& 3/8" 1&5/8" 2& 1/8"& 2&5/8" bits I think it was $365.00 & that was about 8yrs ago.

1. 
   BillBrennen | Dec 29, 2005 09:41am | #21

   Plumbbill,Does Milwaukee put finer threads on the pilot point for the really big selfeed bits to slow down the cut for safety? I have their bits, but nothing over 2-9/16". The feed threads on mine are coarser than the threads on your 4-5/8" monster.Bill

1. 
   plumbbill | Dec 29, 2005 10:45am | #22

   all the bits I have over 2&9/16" have a finer thread than the smaller ones.

   I use the monster bits with a hole hawg & put about a 3' piece of 1" IP in where the handle would normally go.

8. 
   SBerruezo | Dec 28, 2005 08:27am | #15

   Go for a ship auger or (I don't know if they make them in 1", but we have a 1.5") a cross between a ship auger and a Forstner bit.  Hex shanks are definately what you want for high torque, big bits, and/or hogging through material fast(we use a Dewalt right angle-drill...I'm pushing for Milwaukee when it fails.)

    

   Young, poor, and eager to learn

9. 
   nikkiwood | Dec 29, 2005 04:08pm | #23

   Re: spade bits

   Bosch has a line of spade bits that are way better than others I have used -- mainly because the point is threaded, and it therefore pulls the bit along.

   I bought mine from a local tool outlet in a 6 bit set (to 1") for about $15. They have a larger set that includes bits up to about 1 1/2"

   Here's the Bosch link:

   http://www.boschtools.com/accessories/accessories-detail.htm?H=176245&G=54730

   ********************************************************
   "It is what we learn after we think we know it all, that counts."

   John Wooden 1910-

1. 
   JulianTracy | Jan 05, 2006 02:19am | #24

   I bought the new style Bosch set as well, and they are much better than standard spade bits. The threaded tips just pull the bit right through the wood.Good stuff.JT