I purchased vellums from Home Plans Inc. The plans are for a crawlspace with poured concrete walls that are 2500 psi. My question is, can I use a different foundation system (ex. block and mortar) or do I have to do what is on the plans? I will be the owner and builder of this house? I want a foundation that I can do by myself. Thanks in advance.
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you can use any foundation that will fit the dimensions of your walls and bearing points as long as you build it to your local codes...
you would be well advised to take the plans to your building inspector for his helpful input before you get too far along, plan service plans usually have some defects that he can help you with
Mike Smith Rhode Island : Design / Build / Repair / Restore
It may just be me, but for a full footing foundation, I don't see much to be easier then poured concrete. Less expensive then block also.
Most of the time all you need is a wall section showing the type of foundation, location of stairs. Make sure you make changes before you start building.
Tim
I would like poured walls but I would like to do my own foundation. I don't have much concrete experience. What would it cost me to have someone come in and pour the foundation? I know there are alot of variables but is there a ballpark estimate? It would be in TN. Thanks
In general...as a wag...
You first need to figure out how much concrete you'll need in cubic yards. Concrete is sold by the yard, which is 27 cu ft. Figure the volume for the footers, walls, and slab, each as a separate entity.
Call a couple of concrete places, tell them your house is going up, and simply ask how much they charge per yard for delivery to your area.
Take whatever figure they offer..say $60 a yard...and multiply it by your requirements. There are your material costs.
In general...as a wag...that cost for concrete will also be what the sub will charge you for his labor and his forms.
In general...as a wag...a fairly rectangular house, about 35' by 45', will have about 10 yards for the footers, 40 yards for 10" walls, and 20 yards for a 4" thick slab.
70 yards @ $60 a yard is $4200 for the mix and $4200 for the sub, a total of $8400. You'll get a great foundation with zero effort and zero risk to you.
You can break out any of the three parts (footers, walls, slab) and do them on your own. Footers will require 2x12 forming material, which can be reused later, some skill, possibly to include surveying items, to lay out square and level footing forms. If you do your own footers to save the theoretical $600, you may not be able to find a crew to form and pour walls on your footers. If you do your own walls compare the $2400 saved vs the cost of renting forms, setting them up squarely, taking them down, placing the mix solo when it arrives, and taking responsibility for a possible form blowout. You can do the flatwork (slab) if you have the confidence and skill.
Concrete work is not as easy as it appears. In a sense, it's not rocket science, but instead, in some ways, an art. You get one easy chance to do it right. Mistakes are difficult to repair.
Two thing that I'm always happy to watch others do: Foundations and drywall. Yeah, I could do them...but I'd rather not. Personal preference.
If you do proceed and do this on your own, do follow up with more posts. I wish you the best.
I'd say Mongo is fairly accurate although the concrete price would go up here, but the labor will go down. Pay close attention to his estimation of mistakes. Below grade mistakes are not akin to resetting a door! As for here, the block would be less expensive, but the labor much more then getting a wall poured. Big difference between masons and concrete guys, plus bear in mind they have the forms which you would not have to rent or make. You could also go with the foam forms where the forms stay as insulation. If you do the block yourself, you best stay on a line around here, or it will never pass. Foundation work is the big "thing" in this neck of the woods highlighted in the storage container shop thread.
I would remove the drywall, but add roofing to Mongo's don'ts.
Don
Like Mike sed...
Look over every stinking measurement on those plans. Make sure they add up. Ensure that window centerlines and rough openings are where they are supposed to be as well as the right size. Compare one floor to the other. Make sure thing stack properly. On and on and on...
Building your own block wall is a noble thing, but I highly encourage you to sub out a poured foundation. It'll be up quick, easy, level, and square, will be superior to a block foundation, and will allow you to save your strength for framing.
It's one area where your time isn't worth the little savings that you'll glean from doing the work youself. And, it's likley that your block wall may actually cost you more in the long run.
If do-it-yourself is paramount then consider renting forms ....or step into the past !
"The crew framed the crawlspce/basement pour with the 5/8 ply that would later be used on the roof or subfloor. The system was held together by "wall ties" (which still are available) designed for the thickness of the desired wall plus the size of 2x's used as horizontal "whalers" (form stiffeners). After the pour the 16' 2x's were used as plates and studs. Little was lost and it produced lots of job security ."
Sort of sounds archaic, but 30 years ago it was "sop" in our backward rural area. Nothing as sweet as a "poured wall"..............skip the blocks if at all possible!!!!
...................Iron Helix
Double ditto to what Mike and Mongo said about checking the plans. You should work out the details before you move the first bit of earth. As Mike said, your local building inspector is a good place to start- do the plans meet code as drawn -things like egress windows in bedrooms. Double check all dimensions- do they add up? Will the washer and dryer you want to use fit in the laundry room? Same goes for kitchen appliances- will they fit? Check with your HVAC and plumbing people- is there space enough for furnace/ac/ductwork and hotwater heater? Check with your electrical people,too. Where will the service go? And the basic design itself- is the main entrance under the edge of a roof where rain, snow and ice run/fall off on to you as you walk in? As for the foundation, if you go with a full basement, what about an entrance/exit? Some home plans designed for slab on grade or crawl space have no interior access. A little time spent now will save some big headaches down the road.
One thing I'd like to add to the good advice these other guys have posted - structural requirements like foundations, framing, siesmic hold downs, footing shape and size, foundation wall depth and thickness...many other details, are location dependant. So what is standard practice here in the Great Northwest would be unusual in New England, Texas, California, Minnesota or Tennessee.
Now, I'm not sure about where your plans were designed to be used, but it makes a huge difference. There is simply nothing better than talking with local builders about your plans, and how they might or might not work well for your soils, site, and climate. You should be able to locate a "consultant" with the knowledge to help you far better than people posting online from who knows where.
Good advice. It's probably also true that many specs on these store bought plans are generic. For example, stair spindles are probably spec'd at 4 inch where some states and locales allow for a greater distance, but at 4 inch, you know you're probably covered. Something to check for possible savings.
Don