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Discussion Forum

Foundation coating for ICF’s

JonE | Posted in General Discussion on July 20, 2009 03:48am

I still have exposed ICF’s on my foundation wall and it’s been going on five years now. After I brush them clean, I want to put some sort of cement-based coating on (like stucco). I’ve looked at Styro Industries Tuff II and Grail Coat. Anyone have other suggestions or have used either one of these products and can comment pro or con on them? My biggest worry is that the stuff won’t actually stick to the ICF’s and will wind up peeling off eventually.

Also, I can get the Styro coating locally; the Grail Coat I’d have to order.

 

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  1. frenchy | Jul 20, 2009 04:03am | #1

    You in effect have a EFIS type system.. check with your local masonary supply. I looked at some thing called I think sikaflex.  Looks like stucco. simply wipe it on and you're done..

  2. CRF | Jul 20, 2009 04:22am | #2

    Jon, I have been down this road, okay am still going down this road. My basement is also ICF and I did part of my foundation a couple of years ago before I built my deck. (I wanted to do that part before the deck so I wouldn't have to do it on my knees under a deck)

    Anyway, don't remember the brand of stuff but was recommended by my ICF dealer(LOGIX) and it worked very nice. In fact, I was just outside doing a yard tour with DW and commented how 5 years have gone by and I really should get the rest of the stucco done!

    Take your weedeater and trim everything down as close to the foam as you can get. Take your shovel and dig back the dirt from the foam a couple of inches below your finished grade. Take a stiff push broom and broom all the yellowy powder off. Then, attach a fiberglass mesh screen to the foam, I used 1/4 1" staples. Pull it tight to remove the wrinkles. Then mix up the mortar/stucco/scratch coat per bag directions and trowel it on. Let dry and then backfill.

    I wasn't worried about looks on my first attempt since it would be hidden under a deck, but it doesn't look bad at all. Kind of like a stucco job. Make sure you mix each batch the same or you will be able to tell where you started a new bucket.

    Let me go get a picture and I'll post it.

    Aaron

    1. CRF | Jul 20, 2009 04:34am | #3

      see if the pictures are here...First pic shows the mesh screen and the scratch coat as well as the waterproofing membrane I used. I ran the mesh right over it and under the final grade. Still need to backfill a bit more it appearsAnother view from the other deckWhat I still need to get done, Maybe this summer?I call it a scratch coat since long term I would like to add cultured ledgestone someday but i'm pleased with the result. It has even held up very well against the weedeater. Aaron

      Edited 7/19/2009 9:47 pm by CRF

  3. Piffin | Jul 20, 2009 07:55am | #4

    I second the FG mesh screen or use a Stack'N'bond product. Either will limit telegraphing joints.

    you biggest concern is not the name brand of the product you use, but how you apply it. Since that foam has been exposed so long, the UV has weakened it. Do not just sweep it clean on surface, but take a wire brush to it to get rid of surface cells that are destroyed by the sun and weather, and to rough the surface so there is 'tooth' for th ecoating to grab mechanically. I also use a primer/bonding agent first and let it dry until slightly tacky before mixing the mud.

    The other thing is to keep it damp or misted if it is hot or in direct sun. Drying too fast while it cures will leave you some hairline cracks.

     

     

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  4. BDohrn | Jul 20, 2009 09:23am | #5

    I have used a product produced here in the Northwest called Xypex with success, so far. However my ICF's are Faswall -- they absorb differetnly than foam.

    1. Marson | Jul 20, 2009 02:20pm | #6

      I have used Tuff II and also Senergy. Both worked fine, though the Senergy, which is an EIFS product, is probably better and also more expensive. It has one product for a base coat and another for a top coat, and is available in a wide range of colors. The top coat has a texture material added, and you can pick from textures like "sand" and "spanish lace". Haven't had a problem with adhesion, but I'd definitely follow Piffin's advice.I'd echo the suggestion of putting mesh on. I saw a job once where the builder put on a cheap roll-on stucco product without mesh, and every joint between the ICF blocks telegraphed through. Use the mesh.

      1. JonE | Jul 20, 2009 03:53pm | #7

        No doubt I'd use the mesh. I just can't see the coating sticking too well to the ICF.Would stapling the mesh to the plastic webs in the ICF help? My concern would be the staples rusting and the whole thing looking like rusty polkadots. Stainless staples, maybe 1/4" narrow crown, 3/4" long? Do they make such a thing? Or is the mesh sticking to the ICF enough? 

        1. Snort | Jul 20, 2009 06:23pm | #8

          I worked on a SIPS house that got Grail Coat. At the time, only certified installers were allowed to apply it. GC brought in some guys from Florida.I think it is normally applied over foam, but this was over osb with a fiberglass mesh. Several coats that were sprayed on. Very messy, but the finished product was nice... until a bobcat hit a corner<G>http://www.tvwsolar.com

          We'll have a kid

          Or maybe we'll rent one

          He's got to be straight

          We don't want a bent one

          He'll drink his baby brew

          From a big brass cup

          Someday he may be president

          If things loosen up

          1. frenchy | Jul 20, 2009 07:48pm | #9

            Yeh those bobcats,  Took off the siding on my housewhen the operator lost control.  Mine was only shingles but that's a lot of repair work and I haven't gotten around to repairing it yet..

        2. CRF | Jul 20, 2009 07:57pm | #10

          I used regular pneumatic staples and its been almost five years with no rust showing through. Of course, I'm in a high mountain desert Idaho = low humidity year round.When I started stapling I was trying to hit the plastic webs but soon was just putting them anywhere to hold the mesh straight. You can see in the corner picture just how well they have held the mesh on there even after 4 years, and I get snow over the top of the foundation.I second the "keep it moist while it cures" advice, I forgot that part. I lightly sprayed water several times a day as it was curing and have had no cracks.When I said to broom it with a stiff broom, i meant just that. Broom all the yellow powder off down to clean white foam and you will not have any problems.

          Edited 7/20/2009 1:00 pm by CRF

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