Replies

1. 
   r_ignacki | Nov 10, 2002 06:32pm | #1

   putting a wall on it? you could cut studs longer in whatever increments.

   maybe you want to start with a level sill? you could taper a piece of pt 5/4 decking, if it's not that bad you could level a mortar bed and drop in some #5 rebar, you could shim it up and pack in some n.s. grout. Now the anchor bolts are too short, put in some longer ones while you're at it.

   listening for the secret.......searching for the sound...

1. 
   GJR | Nov 10, 2002 06:45pm | #2

   FramerPa,  you definitely want to start with a level and square sill.  Are you using a double mud sill?  If you are,  just lay your first 2x6 down on the sill then shim the second one level. 

1. 
   Nails | Nov 10, 2002 09:13pm | #5

   I've had a question come up from time to time about shims and the potental of them compressing later got any thoughts on that?

1. 
   GJR | Nov 10, 2002 10:47pm | #6

   Joe, good observation.  The wall adjoining the out of  level wall must be off the same amount.

   Nails,  The shims are centered under the framing.  Compression is minimal if any.  The real culprit with any new construction is shrinkage."Don't take life too seriously, you are not getting out of it alive"

1. 
   brownbagg | Nov 10, 2002 10:52pm | #7

   is it a slab on grade or justa foundation wall with floor joist on top. If its slab on grade, then wall,cabinet, doors etc will be off so topping is neccasary. If it just outer wall then shimming or topping the wall. What type floor.

2. 
   framer_pa | Nov 11, 2002 12:37am | #8

   Your Answer/reply was the actual point of my question. Shimming will level the mudsill (btw we do use dbl mudsill) I usually shim between the two , at least every 12 " , but i still think about those points compressing in the future. my suggestion is to have the block layer/poured wall contractor take a few of these down and re-do em. it just doesnt seem right to have a 400 k house sitting on shims IMHO. thanks for the replies.

3. 
   GJR | Nov 11, 2002 01:22am | #9

   framer-pa,

       If the wall in question is the only wall that is not level (which I doubt) and the floor joists will be running perpendicular to that wall, then another alternative would be to notch the bottom of the floor joists where they make contact with the sill.  This notching of course is done only on the high points. , not the other way around (Shimming).   Then taper your rim joist the amount of 0" to 1 1/4" to match. 

       You could also reform the top portion of the foundation wall and pour a self leveling compound.  Feasible? I  don't know.   Will it be level ? most certainly would.  Just a thought.

   "Don't take life too seriously, you are not getting out of it alive"

2. 
   Framer | Nov 10, 2002 06:55pm | #3

   FramerPa,

   Is this house a rectangle let's say 32' x 40' and the gable end being 32'? If the gable is facing the side of the house and the 40' is the front of the house and your gable end is out of level an 1-1/4".

   If it's 1-1/4" out of level going towards the front of the house, this means your not going to be just shimming the gable, your whole front wall could be out of level from front to back.

   You can't just have the gable wall out of level and your front and back walls be level. Did you put a transit or a 32' TJI or a line in the middle of the foundation and check for level?

   Joe Carola

3. 
   Framer | Nov 10, 2002 07:04pm | #4

   FramerPa,

   I forgot to mention in my post above that if it's out of level towards the front of the house 1-1/4" let's say looking at the front of the house that it's the left side, this also means that your front wall from right to left could be out of level 1-1/4" in 40' and just that corner is the lowest spot.

   Joe Carola

   
   

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   Edited 11/10/2002 3:06:44 PM ET by Framer