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I built my utility shed with a wood-framed floor elevated about 8 inches above grade. Over 20 years the space below the floor has become the home to many varmints, the most troublesome being the present woodchuck inhabitants. If I had it to do over, I’d build it with no floor and just pack the earth with modified gravel.
TD
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Replies
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What type of foundation or base does an outdoor shed roughly 10x10 need to have? I seen a show with our friend Norm, where he dug out the topsoil, filled it with crushed gravel and set PT 6x6's on it and secured them with rebar driven through them into the ground and built on them.
I've also seen people who buy the "wayoverpriced" kits and just set them on the ground where their built. Is there a right way to do this?
I live in the northeast and we usually get a lot of snow and cold so the freeze and thaw cycle is alive and well.
*Are you looking for a "permanent" or "non-permanent" structure. I'm not talking "long-lasting", I'm talking "the tax man cometh."For a small, non-permanent (in my locale) shed, I'll dig holes down about 30" (my frost line is 42" deep) and fill them to the top with concrete. I use these as pads (non-permanent) for the 4-by PT posts (18"-24" long) that are bolted to the inside face of the PT joist/rimjoist assembly, raising the joist assembly off the ground. A 10' square shed, I'd use 9 holes spaced 5' apart.For any outbuilding/shed, I'd stick frame it. Much better quality, your custom design, for near the same price.
*A 10' square shed with holes spaced 5' apart. Doesn't that come out to 8 holes?Wonderin' if I'm looking silly here (again!)...Rich Beckman
*Mongo,I agree with building your own shed but I have to disagree with the near the same price line. I just received a Home Depot flyer today and in it they have a "great deal" on a 10x10x9 shed kit for $1200.00.Some details: "solid 2x4 construction, real plywood siding, 6'wide x 7'H double doors, 2x4 stiffners prevent warping, 7'high side walls and 9'high peek provide easy access, features a plywood deck with treated framing 2x4 spaced 12" on center for a rock solid foundation"What a deal!Now some current lumber prices in my area: 2x4x8-$1.99 2x4 PT-$2.494x8 1/2cdx 3-ply $9.58 3/4cdx $17.68Like you said build your own. For the record I am building my own just not sure of what to put under it.
*... center bearing makes it 9 total: 10'+ --- + --- ++ --- + --- + - 10'+ --- + --- +Jeff
*10x10 requires a foundation here and is permanent (no body enforces it but it's a rule)
*Thanks.Rich Beckman
*About three years ago a windstorm destroyed a customer's Sears 10x10 metal shed and I replaced it with the stick framed shed in the pix below. The existing slab is about 11x11, the shed has a 2x4 frame w/10 ft trusses and T1-11 siding. It has remained standing through a storm with winds exceeding 90 mph. (Scaled, dimensioned plans and instructions are available for a nominal fee ;->) At that time materials cost $350-$400.
*Thanks for the pix allaround,I have a couple of questions, could you describe the slab foundation that you poured, its thickness? depth of stone base? any wire or rebar? spacing of sill plate bolts? Also it looks like the shed was built near a few tall trees, any problems with roots during the slab excavation? Your slab appears to be at grade or even slightly lower, this would allow rain water and mud to flow in, is this a problem with this shed?Nice touch on the sliding doors rather than duel opening.Jeff
*Ryan,What type of foundation would you use if building one? Also your thoughts on Allaround's slab foundation in pix or do you prefer a poured post?Jeff
*Don't mean to pick, but the slab that allaround showed us seems too low to the ground. The barn boards should be starting to rot where they're making contact with the ground.Floating slabs (or raft slabs as some people call them) is ideal for small, shed type buildings.Pour a 6 inch high slab right on top of the ground. Removing the grass first and laying down a four inch bed of gravel would be very nice, but if you don't have it, don't worry about it.Either install a mat of 1/2 inch rebar 12 inches OC (this procedure provides best strength) or install 6 inch welded wire mesh and use cement with the fiberglass additive.For a 10ft X 10ft slab (or slightly larger) we are talking about 2 yards of concrete....about $150.Wood used for forms and bracing will cost you around $30.This foundation will outlast the others. The 6 inch height helps keep your building dry by eliminating ground contactwith your framing. The shed can be built on top of this slab, and then drill holes through the sill plate and install concrete "quick bolts" to anchor the shed to its foundation. Or you can install anchor bolts into the wet concrete when pouring.Davo.
*Jeff,If a concrete slab seems more work and/or expense than you want to go through, then do the 6X6 PT thing. It will work just find and should give you many years of service.Make sure the 6X6s are rated at at least "40" for ground contact. Pressure treated wood rated at "20" or so is not suitable. The higher the number, the longer your beams will last. Railroad ties work great in these situations. They will last forever; though creosote is not always good to handle. Bury the ties a couple of inches into the gravel if you don't want an 8 inch height.I have built sheds with treated 4X4s that came in a kit package. I substituted 4X6s in their place. Would not use anything smaller than a 4X6 for a 10 X 10 shed.Davo.
*Jeff,If a concrete slab seems more work and/or expense than you want to go through, then do the 6X6 PT thing. It will work just find and should give you many years of service.Make sure the 6X6s are rated at at least "40" for ground contact. Pressure treated wood rated at "20" or so is not suitable. The higher the number, the longer your beams will last. Railroad ties work great in these situations. They will last forever; though creosote is not always good to handle. Bury the ties a couple of inches into the gravel if you don't want an 8 inch height.I have built sheds with treated 4X4s that came in a kit package. I substituted 4X6s in their place. Would not use anything smaller than a 4X6 for a 10 X 10 shed.Davo.
*I built my utility shed with a wood-framed floor elevated about 8 inches above grade. Over 20 years the space below the floor has become the home to many varmints, the most troublesome being the present woodchuck inhabitants. If I had it to do over, I'd build it with no floor and just pack the earth with modified gravel.TD