Is there a limiting size for a frame and panel door (will be paint grade poplar rails and stiles with MDF or birch ply panels) to where it won’t twist? I need to replace some ktichen cabinet doors that are roughly 23 inches square at the largest and about 18 in. x 23 in. on the smaller and I don’t know if the materials I’m planning above will handle it – do I need to use thicker MDF (3/8 in. vs. 1/4 in. panel)?. The doors on them now are lip molding mitered around 3/4 in. plywood.
Thanks
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Replies
Your door sizes should be ok for rail and stile with 3/4" MDF raised panel doors.
If you're using cope and stick frames and euro hinges, make the rails and stiles AT LEAST 2" wide or you'll have problems with the panel slot interfering with the hinge cup holes.
I'm actually going to make them flat panel MDF (1/4 or 3/8 in. thick panels) doors instead of raised panel. Will that still be ok?
If you're going with flat panels, I would use 1/4" maple or birch ply. I think that it would be stronger than 1/4" MDF and it's definitely lighter.Be warned, however that 1/4" ply isn't really 1/4" thick so you'll need a cope and stick cutter set that is sized for metric instead of imperial material. I got mine several years ago from http://www.mlcs.comIf you can't get metric cutters, the 1/4" MDF would work, but make sure that it's actually 1/4" thick.
For flat panel doors I still prefer 1/2" for the panel.
I use a back cutter bit or waste stock away on the table saw for a reveal on the inside face of the panel. The outside still shows as a typical flat panel door.
I just did a run of doors like that for my home office. The faces of the 1/2" birch ply panels are recessed about 3/8" back from the faces of the poplar frames, so the inside face of the panel stands about 1/8" proud of the frame.
You have to be real careful with 1/4" ply.
1/4" ply panels (unless you use spaceballs) will produce a very 'cheap' door sound when the doors close.
Jeff
Agreed, that's why I use 1/2".There's just no heft to a door with 1/4" panels.