Replies

1. 
   calvin | Jun 19, 2003 01:54pm | #1

   If the cabinet door style would allow it, I might use the factory supplied sq. edge fills available out of 3/4 stock x 8'.   Available usually in 3"/6".  Or perhaps some matching flat stock with a decorative edge.   Apply a ledger to the back of the fill that slips over the top of the cabs to register an even reveal, screw up through the cab  into the ledger.  How tall are the uppers you are using?  With only a 30" and an 8' ceiling, you'd have room to apply a crown to the fill, holding a level line.  If I understand you correctly, you are looking to go right up to the ceiling line.  If a 36" upper, you could still use the crown, running with the ceiling.  If you're building these custom, add and extend a top fill and scribe to the ceiling line.  Best of luck.

   __________________________________________

   Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   http://quittintime.infopop.cc/ubbthreads/categories.php?Cat=

   
   

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   Edited 6/19/2003 6:56:09 AM ET by calvin

2. 
   calvin | Jun 19, 2003 02:11pm | #2

   Here's a big fill/crown on top of Frameless.

   __________________________________________

   Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.

   http://quittintime.infopop.cc/ubbthreads/categories.php?Cat=

   
1. 
   brianspages | Jun 19, 2003 04:47pm | #3

   thanks, calvin.

   Basically, you've documented the typical approach.   Real nice.   Whether ceilings are flat/level or not...

   But when the ceiling drops 1" over 8', would you simply apply the crown up to the ceiling?  Probably, though it would look cockeyed...  Practically speaking, how would one scribe a crown?  You probably wouldn't even want to for aesthetic reasons at 1" over 8', but in general...

   Here, the plan called for neither "soffits"/drops or crown, but the space is too wide to fill with caulking.  The 8' finished stock that's available from Mill's Pride is the toe kick that I referred to (3/4" thick).  That I can scribe (1" tapered over 8') and use as fill...

   The wall cabinets are 42" in height.

   I guess the last alternative (and maybe the best) would be to drop the cabs 2" or so below the ceiling and replace the ducted range hood with a ductless.

   brian

   Edited 6/19/2003 9:52:11 AM ET by brian smith

3. 
   r_ignacki | Jun 19, 2003 06:43pm | #4

   there's been at least one time when I filled it with mud.

   Yep, a good inch. after the cabinets and painting were compleated. Floated an area close to two feet toward the center of the cieling.

   Anothere time, once we had a problem with the doors hitting the recessed light trim. Damn kitchen designers    <G>
4. 
   migraine | Jun 20, 2003 01:39am | #5

   Ultimately one of the drawbacks to framless cabinetry.  I agree with "Panama Red"(and I do remember what panama red is, just haven't touched it in 20 yrs). Re float the ceiling or hold the cabinets down 12", but I think it's too late for that.  I have never liked using the large filler above, but thats personal preference.

   One way I deal with crown on frameless is to hold  a small filler flush or 1/4"-1/2" proud of the door line and then attach the crown to the filler and ceiling.  This would give a filler reveal of 1" to 1 1/2"

5. 
   wrick2003 | Jun 20, 2003 02:52am | #6

   why can't you consider levelling the ceiling with 1x2 and a layer of 1/4" drywall?

   a ceiling isn't such a big deal, you can do it when the room is empty, it kinda makes more sense than scribing everything  to a crooked plane.

   my next door neighbours kitchen was 3" out of level across 10'. we levelled the ceiling, levelled the floor as much as possible considering that there were three doorways into the room, and the crown had as much as a 1/4" caulk line at some points by the time we were done. some creative painting made any discrepancy go away. 

   if you really wanted to do it right, you would demo all the plaster, and level from the ceiling joists, adding a layer of 5/8" rock.

   sometimes on a mildly out of level ceiling, i like to hang the cabinets a little lower so the crown has a shadow line when installed. the shadow is greater in some spots than others, but it is an easy way to hide the situation. or deal with a lack of budget.

   good luck     rg

6. 
   steve | Jun 20, 2003 03:11am | #7

   scribing toekick material to the ceiling is really the only way, ive done it many times and it is tricky, especially when doing returns at the ends of the cabinets

   one way to make it a little easier is to set the scribed filler pieces back about a half inch from the cabinet fronts so that any gaps to the cabinets are not so visible. then a piece of trim between the filler and the ceiling will hide any gaps there. door stop material works well or something bigger depending the budget and space.

   scribing even the small crown mold from mills pride will be tricky and unsightly

7. 
   geob21 | Jun 20, 2003 04:07am | #8

   Brian- Whats the length of the run of cabinets? Dealing with 1" in 8' has different resolution the 1" in 25'.

   If you were arrested for being a quality builder would there be enough evidence to convict you?