Hi all,
I am finishing a basement and have furred out all around the foundation walls. That was simple enough, but now I am trying to figure out how to frame a double doorway and a 45 degree angle in the wall about a foot after the door.
Any suggestions?
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Replies
Like any other connection. A full stud within inches of the taper, miter the top and bottom plates at 22.5 and rip the two matching studs at 22.5. Toe nail the two planes together.
Do I need a table saw to cut the studs at 22.5?
A wormdrive works for me. :-)
What's a worm drive???
Sorry. I see you're new here. A wormdrive is one of those circular saws that are too long, heavy and cumbersome for some folks....folks who prefer the lighter alternative, referred to as a "sidewinder".
To be serious, both work just fine, IMO. So to answer your question, you can bevel your studs on a table saw, but if you're experienced and comfortable with a circular saw, you can cut the bevels accurately with the style of your choice.
But, I suspect, from your question and your screen name, the table saw might give you better results (no intent to be condescending).
BUT, if you are ripping framing lumber on a table saw, beware (read some tablesaw safety tips) of bows and crowns and such so that you don't injure yourself! (I'm serious!)
Welcome to Breaktime and, do us a favor and fill out enough of your profile so that we know what part of the planet you live on! It can have a bearing on the the relative accuracy of the responses you get to your questions.
Thanks for the advice, I really appreciate it! I'll be sure to fill out the profile once I find the danged thing.
I only need to frame (2)-45 bends in the wall and thats it. You wouldn't have any other ideas (even time consuming or difficult) aside from buying a table saw for 4 cuts would you?
Buy yourself a five dollar swanson or speedy square and get somebody at your neighbourhood lumberyard (not home depot) to show you how to mark the 22.5 degree angle, or just lie the two studs over each other and mark the centre of the intersection.
Above all else spend two bucks for the paper corner bead for the inside and outside of these angles. They are 135 degrees but that is another story.
Have a good day
Cliffy
I am really sorry if I sound like I don't know what I'm talking about, but guess what? You guessed it, I don't. So here comes the stupid question....
What's a paper corner bead? I sure don't mind spending a couple of bucks for it as compared to what it would cost for a table saw. Is it something that allows for uneven mitered cuts, and helps cover them up? If so, I'm sure I can wing a 22.5 degree (+ or - a couple of degrees) and even a couple of studs to practice.
So the question of the hour is.... "What's a paper corner bead?"
The paper bead is a cornerbead that is a relative new invention. The drywall taper will apply it to your 45degree angle both inside and outside so you end up with a nice straight crisp line at the angle. I like the paper beads instead of the old fashioned steel beads because they set in the mud with no screws so no popped screws either. Also paint sticks and stays on better.
Have a good day
Cliffy
P.
Scooter1 explained the method. To do it with a circular saw, set the saw bevel to 22 1/2 degrees. measure from the outside (longest) point of your corner to the stud (with scooters directions, the distance should be the same on both sides).
That distance will be the rip width for your saw. Since studs are seldom straight, don't snap a line, but instead, spot the location of the foot of your saw relative to the edge of the board when the blade is aligned with your cutline. The foot may have some index marks on the leading edge to help. You can scribe a cut line the length of the board to rip to....OR...
....If the saw foot is overhanging the edge, you can pinch your fingers at the overhang and use them as a sawguide as you make your cut, or you can clamp a set of vise-grip pliers on the foot to follow the edge, or, if your saw has an edge guide attachment, you can use that.
Watch out for your fingers under the board.....
Thanx for the advice. I am way more inclined to spare a couple (if not more) of studs for practice, than spending more $ on a table saw. At least, if nothing else, to figure out if I can do it or not before I spend the $ on the sure thing.
Thanx for the input.
I might add that-- This site has been GREAT!!!!
There is nothing more comforting in knowing that you can ask a question and being able to get advice from others (FAST) that are capable and confident without feeling like an idiot in the process. I would like to take my hat off to all that put this site together and all that participate.
You are all terrific!!!!
Okay, maybe I've has a couple of drinks, but I swear that its still true!!!
hey green, you can swear all you want, but how's about buy'in once in a while?
new guys, selfish lot.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Was I swearin? Sorry if I was, but I could swear, OOPS!, I guess maybe I was...
So what was it you wanted me to buy?
a round in the tavern of course. They will let you in won't they?
You can be a 14 y.o. giggling gurl as long as you register.
Hurry it up, us old busy guys knock off early.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Hey Cal, don't get your shorts in a knot! I sent in for a subscription through the mail. And as long as I can use all your handy-dandy info, I'll keep it up.
hey green, lighten up.
Don't you know an invitation when you see one?
Please go to the Tavern, sit down and buy a round.
Call your wife, tell her your busy having fun.
She can join us if she wishes.
You need a bit of history on this place, what better opportunity?Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Okay, I'll ease up a little
Just tell me how to get to the tavern, & I'll join ya for a few.
In General Discussion, there is a thread called Access to Woodshed Tavern or something close. Ask Mark the sysop for admittance. He'll hook you up. They made the tavern unseeable to the naked eye so as not to offend the casual observer. On occasion there's some good discussion there.Remodeling Contractor just outside the Glass City.
Quittin' Time
Buy a decent circular saw ... we would like to recommend a $150 Porter Cable or Dewalt or similar, but for your needs you can get by for less. Just be wary of the cheapies. And buy a rip guide to fit the saw. Some brands come with the guide, some are sold extra. Clamp the board to a sawhorse or something sturdy, adjust the rip guide so it cuts the stud like Ralph shows, and start cutting. Take a minute to figure out which side to put the rip guide on so the weight of the saw is on the board.
The paper tape they are taling about will be about 8-10 feet long, and will be a strip of metal glued to a strip of paper, and bent at 45 degrees. Any drywall supply will have them for $2-3 and they are well worth the cost. Most Home Depot/Lowes will not have them ... they will ony have the 90 degree corners.
"When asked if you can do something, tell'em "Why certainly I can", then get busy and find a way to do it." T. Roosevelt
I just wanted everybody to know that RalphWicklund's idea for framing a 45 degree bend in a wall worked GREAT!!! Thanks Ralph. It was pretty simple, and it couldn't have turned out better. Thanks for the expertise.
I wouldn't bother ripping any studs...
I just double up 2 sets of studs,nail them to the plates as
close as you can fit them to the short point of your 22.5 plates...
nail them square like you would any stud....
strap the double stud to the other double every 2 feet verticaly with
some metal banding.....
never had a problem doing it this way....
quick, easy,passes code here..... regards
Here's a drawing I did a while back for just this type question. Ignore the notation of metal studs unless that's what you are using.
This rip can be easily done with your circular saw and it's only one rip instead of two at 22.5.
Edited 8/23/2005 10:04 pm ET by RalphWicklund
That is ingenious!!! I think that I will try this 1st. It does look like I will have to be more exact, but I think I can do it. I will probably have to buy a larger saw (7-1/4)... yeah, I only have a 4-1/2 or 5-1/2 whatever it is, but I already tried a 45 degree cut and I came up about 1/4 to 3/8 inch short of cutting all the way through the 2x4. It was in the short direction, of course, otherwise I never would have tried it.
But I think the bigger saw is worth the investment, eh?
Thanx Ralph
Lay your two plates down and get the angle you want (45*.) Place a 2x block under the free end of the one on top.
Pencil mark both plates at "A" and "B". Mark your line on both between the two marks, (shown in red.)
View Image
Lay out your studs as shown in blue, making sure that the corner of the stud to the inside of the angle is flush with the edge of the plate. If the outside corner of the stud sticks out a smidgeon, it won't adversely effect the appearance of the DW corner. IF it sticks out too much, eyeball it and rip it off. It's not critical. Those two inside-the-angle studs are for nailing the two walls together. Put the next stud in after you've nailed the walls if you like.
Nail the DW off to the stud next to the angled stud.
SamT