Replies

1. 
   draftguy | Dec 08, 2006 10:28pm | #1

   Just had a similar problem. Drew up a ramp to replace an existing ramp that didn't meet ADA or the local historic commission guidelines. I ended up with foundations for the posts because I couldn't come up with a novel solution. At the base of the ramp I tapered the joists to about 2", then bolted them to a wood cleat anchored to a concrete slab below (went to the library and found a detail of this). The concrete slab then rises to match the decking and follow the original slope until it becomes level.

   I was afraid about tapering to zero because the lowest deck boards won't have much to attach to (made that much worse by people stomping on them). Also, depending on drainage, the joists resting on a hard surface might invite rot. Where the joists contact the ground I have a layer of gravel beneath them for water to drain away.

2. 
   RichBeckman | Dec 09, 2006 05:42am | #2

   It's been awhile since I built a ramp. I believe that at the bottom of the ramp, I set the posts into concrete 36 inches deep.

   I used to dig out a hole and framed the ramp normally, just diving into the ground.

   The last few ramps I built, I switched to using a steel plate for the last couple of feet with some tapered lumber to support it.

   Rich Beckman

   This signature line intentionally left blank.

3. 
   Sasquatch | Dec 09, 2006 05:17pm | #3

   I just built a ramp for my aging dog, who is blind in one eye and cannot judge stairs.  He seemed to be a couple of years younger as soon as he used the ramp.

   I simply angled it to the ground and set back the handrail a couple of feet where it could be securely fastened to the ramp side.  You don't really need the handrail to go all the way to the end of the ramp.

1. 
   paul42 | Dec 09, 2006 05:39pm | #4

   I think that in most climates, the hand rail should go at least all the way to the end of the ramp. 

   The only time I have had a broken bone in my life was slipping on a little bit of frost on the last six inches of a ramp.

4. 
   craigf | Dec 09, 2006 06:08pm | #5

   When you say paved driveway, is it asphalt or concrete?

1. 
   Databoy | Dec 09, 2006 08:16pm | #7

   It's asphalt. I'm working from the Illinois Accessibility Code 1997. Pretty specific on railings to the end of the ramp. Spoke to the building commissioner, who took an interest and offered advice as to what he would accept. I will set 1-1/2" galv pipe in the concrete at the bottom of the ramp as vertical supports for the 4x4 posts. I like the idea of a concrete "curb" which would transition from zero elevation at the asphalt to the start of the plywood ramp deck. Nick

1. 
   Shep | Dec 09, 2006 09:16pm | #8

   I was going to mention the concrete transition, but I see you beat me to it.

   You will need to chop out some of the blacktop for that to work. Concrete needs to be at least 1-1/2" to 2" thick to have any strength.

2. 
   craigf | Dec 10, 2006 02:27am | #9

   I've done the concrete transition where I ran to an existing sidewalk or driveway. It worked well. There really wasn't all that much concrete to mix.

5. 
   Shep | Dec 09, 2006 07:02pm | #6

   I've done a couple of ramps, and basically trenched the last few feet , so the joists run underground to the bottom, and leave plenty of lumber to attach to the posts.

   But if you're on a driveway, that probably wont work. You're still going to have to set the posts into the ground to give them some strength. You can then use some PT plywood to make the remaining transition to the ground.

   You are figuring on a 1" in 10" ( min.) pitch to meet code, right?