What is the best way to frame a wall that is 18′ tall by 30′ long? 2×6 studs. Worried about wind loads and possible bowing or buckleing. My guess is 18′ 2×6’s framed plate to plate.
Mark
What is the best way to frame a wall that is 18′ tall by 30′ long? 2×6 studs. Worried about wind loads and possible bowing or buckleing. My guess is 18′ 2×6’s framed plate to plate.
Mark
The Sperry Instruments wire tracer beeps and flashes when it locates wires behind drywall and finishes.
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Replies
I'm no expert, but I think this question needs some more info to round it out. Can you give a little more explanation of where the wall is going, and what's attached to it?
"he...never charged nothing for his preaching, and it was worth it, too" - Mark Twain
It's the exterior wall of a 16' x 30' "great room". 16' walls at each end. Flat roof with plyjoist I beam rafters 16' long.
Basically a 16' x 30' box with a flat roof. Three walls are exterior and the other is an interior (supported) wall. That part of the house is two stories. 9' ceilings on 1st floor. 8' on second. Great room ceiling to match up to 2nd floor ceiling.
You will want to refer to the code standards for your areas wind and seismic design catagories to determine what is required for braced wall lines on your project. The amount of wall openings can drastically change the way these walls are constructed. If you're unsure of the requirements call a local structural engineer, and they can design a system for you.
Had a simular wall, it bowed and flex a lot, becase of the windows. The building Inspector agreed to plywood shear on both side to stiffen it up.
Potwin
Just a DIY here. I just built a 20'x14.5' by 18' high living room addition. Our town's building department required 2x6s doubled on 12" centres for my 18' x 14.5' wall. It struck me and my architect as overkill, but they insisted.
I framed a wall a couple years ago. 22' tall, and 25' long. 2x6's 16OC balloon framed and sheathed in 1/2". Stood it with a forklift. But I'm in MA. I'd start there and see what additional measures your local bld dept would like to see.
" 18' 2x6's framed plate to plate."
Using a double top plate means that your wall will be 18'4.5"
You will also be needing blocking as stabilizers and fire-stops.
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I just meant that I would buy 18'ers not use the whole thing. LOL
So... Blocking, sheathing inside and outside, maybe double up the studs every 4 feet. Lifting it will be fun!
I thought about running 3 beams from the opposite wall on 10' centers 10' from the floor. They would only carry their own weight as a load so probably wouldn't have to be that large. But I really don't want to clutter up the open space.
I have framed alot of tall walls out of 2x6 LSL studs and plate, makes for nice and straight walls. I would also divide 18' wall and run two rows of blocking with 1/2" shear.
I take it that you don't need engineering there?
Howie