Hey!
Been a few weeks but if the snow ever stops here in VT I want to start building the workshop.
It is a 52 x 64 ft building with 16 ft walls.
So, after all the posts and advice you guys gave me, I have decided building cheap will give me no end of problems.
I am planning a standard stick build with 2 x 6’s on 16″ centers. OSB sheathing … house wrap … drain plane … siding.
I am going with a drainage plane (3/4″ air gap between the siding and the house wrap covered sheathing.
Questions ….
1) What is the best house wrap? I have been told to use everything from tar paper to Tyvek to some very expensive and exotic wraps.
2) Does the 3/4″ strapping need to be pressure treat? Again, I have been told to use everything from 1 x 3 non PT strapping to exterior plywood to pressure treated strapping or plywood.
3) What do I use for siding ???? OK I know this is wide open but I keep having my mind changed and I am hoping someone has experience with the two materials I am looking at.
First I wanted a board and batten look. LP smart siding makes a 16″ x 16 ft siding … $40 per piece … plus 1 x 3 battens @ $15 each. There are primed so I would need to take into account the cost of hiring a painting crew and paint .. and hope I can have it done before winter. Also, I am just not sure how friendly 16 ft pieces of vertical siding will be to put up.
Second is Hardie plank. 7 1/4″ (6″ reveal) 12 ft long .. pre finished … $14.10 each. I can use Haridie trim on the building corners but probably need wood trim for casing as it cuts a lot better. No painting except for the window casing. Cutting looks like a pain but it seems to go up easy.
So, any benefits LP vertical vs Hardie horizontal ??????
Thanks …. Mike
Replies
Tarpaper will serve just fine. It's worked for more than a century. Other housewraps offer performance advantages that matter a lot more in a high performance home than in a shop. The rain-screen battens don't need to be treated. I don't know anyone who bothers with that. The ones on my house are rough-sawn mason's lath. Plywood rippings are common. The current issue of Fine Homebuilding has an article on engineered siding you might find useful. https://www.finehomebuilding.com/issue/2020/05/issue-292-august-september
Fantastic article!
I am still trying to figure out which will last longer. LP has changed .. they did a particle board ... but now have changed to an OSB. Hardie is cement board.
I like the vertical OSB but am worried about OSB vs Hardie.
Mike
I've been aware of the SmartSide for about 15 years now. I actually did a product demo for them early on. It gets rave reviews from contractors, and I think 15 years is a pretty good track record. It's much easier to work with than FC siding, as well. Now, I have FC on my own house, and it's performed great. I'd be torn to choose between the two today.
That's exactly where I am at. The two are very close in price. Probably in the end about the same amount of work.
I like the idea of 16 pieces of board and batten ... but OSB type material just scares me.
FC has a proven record but then I am going horizontal planks and a lot of work caulking seams at windows and such (24 windows and 5 doors to trim out).
Hmmmmmm ......
I wouldn't hesitate to use the LP.
So, one more little glitch.
Just when I convinced myself to use the LP, I find they don't supply it finished. I talked with the factory ... they "should" be getting the finishing plant online in a few months. They have no idea (or would not tell me) how much more finished will cost over primed.
They directed me to DiamondKote. This is a third party they somehow have a relationship with to finish their product ... got a quote .... a $40 primed 16' x 16" panel jumped from $40 each to $70 each
This would add over $10K to the project.
So, I am thinking I will buy them primed and then paint them before putting them up.
Anything I need to look out for? Two coats of ???? latex paint ????
I am going a very dark gray (almost black) ... trying for the look of an old time machine shop / blacksmith shop.
Thanks .... Mike
Latex/acrylic is what you want. Stick with the higher end paints from a quality brand - Ben Moore, SW, and California are all good.
I did more thinking about this last night. A quick estimate is $1500 - $2000 for two coats of "good" paint.
While the guys are framing, I can hire someone to help me paint the panels so they are ready to go when they get to the sheeting.
Painting while they are laying on sawhorses should be fairly quick ... maybe spray and back roll.
I should be less than half the cost of buying the material pre finished.
I was trying to read up on what paint is "best" ... wow ... as many opinions as manufactures of paint!
Thanks ...