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Shakey Jake writes that some “top end” homes are never blocked. In our area nothing could be truer and “top end” just means that the houses are big and sell for a lot of $.
I have worked as the construction leader on four HFH homes. Through life I’ve always worked with wood, etc. but am not in the trade for a living. So, on the first one I needed to learn the process of framing a house. I relied heavily on Larry Haun’s video and book and built the house in a similar fashion. The response to my efforts was incredible. The lumber salesman told me I was silly to use so much wood and the inspector told me that he never sees anyone concerned with making sure there is a stud channel placed where an exterior and interior wall abutt to provide a place to screw the drywall (everyone now runs ext. studs 16″OC and uses little metal clips to hold the drywall in the corners). Even the electrician complained that there was “too much wood in the house” making his drilling more difficult. Perhaps Larry Haun overkills his construction, but I did not put one stick of wood in that house beyond his teaching. Two houses later we partnered with a large “top end” builder who framed the house (topped out in one day with a crew of 5!). The difference was incredible. I would’ve never thought that it could pass code. 6′ ext. windows headered by doubled 2×4 with a piece of OSB sandwhiched between, int. doors headered by a single 2×4 laid flat w/o any cripples above, etc. The framing crew was great and I greatly appreciated the efficiency of motion and materials, and the precision they achieved at the breakneck speed that they framed. But the house was certainly not solid. Drywall, siding, etc. tightened the house considerably and once finished, the house looked the same as the first. To date, both are holding up well, but I have to wonder about their comparative conditions in 20 years.
Bob
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Funny, I have become the "cabinet specialist" for the LA Habitat affiliate. Regardless of the "pros" bragging about never installing, or needing, blocking for the cabinets, it is sure a lot easier, and I think it makes a more reliable installation if you install the blocking before the drywall.
I'm not sure what you mean by "on edge". The 2x4 (or better, 2x6) blocking should be installed between the studs with the wide face of the board facing the room. Get the blocking in early so the butchers (plumbers) and electricians have to work around your blocking, rather than you not being able to install blocking after them.
The base cabinets are about 35" from the floor. However the rail for attaching them to the wall are usually 1-3" below the top edge. Thus the TOP of the base cabinet blocking would be approximately 32-33" above the floor.
The upper cabinets are usually 18" above the counter, or 54" above the floor. Thus the BOTTOM of the lower blocking is 54 plus inches from the floor. For 30" tall uppers, which is common, the TOP of the upper blocking would be 54" plus 30" or 7' as mentioned in earlier posts. I like to see the upper blocks dropped about 1/2". Consult the plans to see where shorter uppers are, for instance over a refrigerator or stove and install additional blocking where the bottoms of these cabinets are. Also double check that any plumbing or electrical outlets are inside cabinets. It's amazing how often the electrician or plumber can get their work on the dividing line between cabinets.
e-mail me directly if you need more advice.
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Thanks for all for commenting.
It was mentioned that "top-end" homes don't usually block for cabinets. At Habitat we usually have more hands then skilled. It's easier for us to try and set-up something for success, in this instance blocks to hang cabinet, then waiting until later. I think blocks will help those volunteers who get the task to hang them.
BTW - Martin G. I'm up the road from you in Ventura County. We're currently building on a 22 home subdivision. Send $$ and talent.
Thanks to all for your help! Gotta go roll some trusses this weekend.
*Top of the blocking for wall cabinets I put at 83"& 49 1/2". Top of blocking for base cabinets I put at 34 1/2". I seldom do it for wood studs. I almost always do it with steel studs. L. Siders
*I am one of the high end builders. No I do not block for cabinets on wood walls. A well built cabinet fstened every 16" is extremely stable (I build my own cabinets). Yes I do build T-posts and conor posts. I have never used clips for sheetrock. I run purlin in all walls including interior ones. As for well meaning people who are building the slums fo tomorrow around here I have been to several of their projects. It is scarry. Steps not built to code. Railings not fastened secruly. Flashing not done. Framing that takes so long that the plywood gets wet for weeks to months. This can cause it to delaminate later. I cannot believe that someone has the gall to believe they can read a book and watch a video and be qualified to build a house!Rick Tuk
*Although having the blocking wide side facing the room certainly makes it easier to hit with the cabinet screws, it seems to me there are a couple of advantages to putting it the other way: 1. It will be a fire block; 2. plumbers and electricians can drill through the center rather than run along side.I'm not sure how much #2 matters, but it seems to me it is a little easier to put nail plates (is that what they are called?) on the edges rather than try to cover the width of the blocking, and then have to worry about the opposing side.
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I'm involved with Habitat for Humanity and we recently framed a house. I'd like to plan some blocking in the kitchen walls for hanging the cabinets. At what height should the 2x4 blocks (on edge)be? I've heard 7 ft to the bottom of the block. Does this sound right?
Habitat homes might not be considered fine homebuilding, but they are built with heart. And a lot of nails.
*when the walls are open, i like to run blocking that center on the top run of the lowers, and at the top of the uppers. also concentrate on small single cabs that don't catch any studs whatsoever. on the lowers, i will even block above the toe kick line on these, so i can fasten both top and bottom. pay special note to areas that could be in need of extra blocks: micro, ends of runs, overhanging counter areas of penninsulas. look at the kit. cab plans and try to figure anywhere you wish you'd have put a block in. best of luck to ya.
*Martin, The height of your blocking is determine by the height you want to place your cabinets. In some kitchen a 12 " soffit is built to hang the cabinets from. This would put the top of the cabinet at around 7'. Your blocking is replacing the nailing area provided by the soffit. You need to determine how high you want your cabinets to be and/or how much open room you want above. After that height is found, you might want to block in for the bottom of the cabinet. This would be determine by the size of the cabinet itself. One more dimension to consider is the area between bottom of cabinet and top of countertop, usually around 18", for a 36" countertop. So, keep your cabinets low enough to use and high enough to work under. Good luck on your noble endever, and just remember that some "top end" home are never blocked for cabinets.
*Shakey Jake writes that some "top end" homes are never blocked. In our area nothing could be truer and "top end" just means that the houses are big and sell for a lot of $. I have worked as the construction leader on four HFH homes. Through life I've always worked with wood, etc. but am not in the trade for a living. So, on the first one I needed to learn the process of framing a house. I relied heavily on Larry Haun's video and book and built the house in a similar fashion. The response to my efforts was incredible. The lumber salesman told me I was silly to use so much wood and the inspector told me that he never sees anyone concerned with making sure there is a stud channel placed where an exterior and interior wall abutt to provide a place to screw the drywall (everyone now runs ext. studs 16"OC and uses little metal clips to hold the drywall in the corners). Even the electrician complained that there was "too much wood in the house" making his drilling more difficult. Perhaps Larry Haun overkills his construction, but I did not put one stick of wood in that house beyond his teaching. Two houses later we partnered with a large "top end" builder who framed the house (topped out in one day with a crew of 5!). The difference was incredible. I would've never thought that it could pass code. 6' ext. windows headered by doubled 2x4 with a piece of OSB sandwhiched between, int. doors headered by a single 2x4 laid flat w/o any cripples above, etc. The framing crew was great and I greatly appreciated the efficiency of motion and materials, and the precision they achieved at the breakneck speed that they framed. But the house was certainly not solid. Drywall, siding, etc. tightened the house considerably and once finished, the house looked the same as the first. To date, both are holding up well, but I have to wonder about their comparative conditions in 20 years. Bob