Framing for clerestory-style windows in shed addition.
Hey Folks,
Hoping for some advice.
I’m installing 2 awning windows up high in my son’s room (a shed addition to the main house). Only have to be concerned with snow loads, and plan was to over-engineer this to be on the safe side. This wall is under the eave.
Didn’t find what I expected once I started removing sheetrock.
Tell if I’m wrong on this, but my understanding was, for a 34″ x 14″ window I would have to have my king and jack studs going all the way to the bottom plate, the header could be 2 2 x 4 with a sandwiched piece of 1/2″ osb. I’m going to leave a small space between the header and top plate to reroute some wiring.
Question I had was looking at what was probably a window on the left before: Can I have one of my king and jack studs rest on that sill from the prior window? Can I also cut part of the right side king/jack studs of that framing and use as a cripple? Would simplify things a bit, and if that framing will support the load I’ll just go with that.
Some of those horizontal blocks, are these meant as a fire block or to keep the studs in line? I’ll need to remove them temporarily to reach the bottom plate with my additional studs, but I can cut some new blocks to insert if they belong there.
I’m a little worried I won’t be able to slip the new studs in floor to ceiling without removing even more sheetrock at the bottom and top. Anyone have a suggestion for that? Would rather not mess with the baseboard or having to redo corners.
Thanks in advance!
Replies
I would cut out the top and patch that when you are done, if you really don't want to disturb the baseboard. Photo looks like you are in for some ceiling patching anyway.
But you seem to have a fine assortment of framing and nail-catchers.
Not sure where you got the idea a couple 2x4s are ok.
http://www.southernpine.com/app/uploads/SS_1-6L.pdf
Your header size will depend on species and grade.
You have not said how long the shed roof is, and this is critical to size the headers.
Speaking of headers, the window sill is not sized to be a header, so you really cannot use it to hold up the loads.
Best plan is to plan and install dedicated jack studs all the way to the bottom plate.
Gotcha! Good point about the sill. Thank you!
So re: headers, I was only saying 2x4 + because it seemed with 34" wide window I'd be ok? I also don't want to bring the window too low down on the wall-Idea was for it to be up top. A 2x6 header might bring it down too low. You raise a point I hadn't considered though in that the windows are so close together. I don't think I'd like the header to span both windows, would rather make them separately. What if I reinforced that area in between with an addition king stud? It would then be 3 studs nailed together in the center.
How long is the roof that sits on this wall?
About 6.5 ft, with the rafter tails that overhang, just shy of 8 ft.
Then your idea for a pair of 2x4s is not such a terrible idea.
What does the local building department say?
Tables in building codes only include double 2x4 for interior load bearing wall use. all the exterior wall tables start with a single 2x6.
Not sure where I suggested a longer header and single one. You are better off with two headers and intermediate support.
Oh, understood, I wasn't implying you suggested it, just that it made me wonder-It was something I had not considered.
The framing on the old window appears to be 1 2x4 on top of another, without the extra sandwiched piece of 1/2" plywood.
Alright, I'm back with some updates-I think everything is framed well enough now to proceed but am curious about a couple of things. I did end up using 2x6 lumber for the headers to play it safe-2 pieces above each opening with plywood sandwiched in between.
First question is can I get away with keeping these cripple studs where they are and not completely removing them and installing new ones at the ends of the sill? I feel like things are beefy enough there for a couple of small windows. I could use some additional mending plates to wedge in additional 2x4's on the left side if folks think that may be a weaker area.
Second, the small gap where I had to reroute/tuck the wiring to the plug, when it comes to insulating, can I just spray Great Stuff within the gap and over the Romex as well? I was thinking of using spray foam in all the visible gaps between the board sheathing as well.
My plan is to remove shingles/put up OSB along the outside before making my openings. Is the finishing on the inside (batt insulation, drywall) typically done last? There is some foul weather tomorrow so I thought I might do that first before the exterior stuff.
One reason to finish the exterior before doing insulation and drywall is to make sure your new work does not end up wet. Errors and weather events can happen and it would be a lot easier to recover if the inside of the wall is still open. Drywall can be better fit after the windows are installed.
What is going on with the loose electrical wire on the right side? I hope the black electric tape between the windows is leftover from holding the cables temoporarily as a convenience, and not trying to patch up some NMC outside a proper box. I know it would mean drilling a few more holes, but this is the time to take care of wiring issues.
I don't have an opinion on the cripple studs, but would want a continuous path of wood to the floor. It is not like that window is going to weigh all that much, (unless you think your son will use it as a regular exit to sneak out, and even then only if he is on the heavy side (which would make it that much harder to get through the window))
Since you are putting OSB over the patchwork wood walls on the outside, I would be inclined to make sure it is well sealed and forget all the gaps in the original boards. Will you put a layer of house wrap over the OSB?
You can use some foam between the studs. If you don't have a pro gun, you might want to wait till the windows are in and get window and door foam and do around the windows and that gap at the same time.
I cannot tell from the photos; are all the joints where your framing meet connected with screws and/or nails?
I like the look of those headers better than the 2x4s.
Thanks for the updates.