I am finishing a basement in a 1922 bungelow, and I have a question that concerns the bottom plates around the exterior walls. The exterior walls of this house has a lip or curb that sits up from the concrete floor 6″ and out from the exterior wall 6″.
I am tempted to place the 2×4 bottom plates out from the exterior wall next to edge of the “floor curb”, so that the top plate can be adjusted in or out a bit, in case the exterior walls are not perfectly plumb (which I fully expect since noting is perfectly plumb in this house). However, I plan on finishing with drywall, but I don’t want the drywall in cantact with the bottom 6″ of the curb.
Can anyone suggest a bottom plate configuration to deal with this issue? Should I wrap the “curb” with green treated lumber (front and top), in order to have a surface between the drywall and the concrete to attach drywall along the bottom?
Thanks in advance
Replies
Kray, 1) where are you located? That "curb" you describe sounds a lot like it could be a french drain. 2) Do you have a sump pump or sump hole in the basement? 3) Is this a block foundation? 4) Do you know what's inside the "curb"?
If indeed this is what it is (drain) you don't want to put your new walls on top of the "curb", it may not support the walls,you will lose access to the drain for service, or worse, you could drive a fastener thru the drain itself (unknowingly). I woud set the wall out in front of the curb, also this will give you some air circulation behind the new wall, which will help prevent mold.
Frame your walls w/P.T. bottom plates, then run some 1x4 or 1x6 P.T. around the bottom of the wall, then install your drywall on top of the P.T. 1x, you can then add a 1/4" 1/4 round on top to cover the exposed edge of the P.T. and make it more attractive.
Hi Geoffery,Thanks for the reply. I'm located in Minneapolis MN. The "curb" am describing is fairly common around here in houses built between 1910 and 1930. There is no sump pump in the basement, but there is a floor drain over on one side of the basement where the washer and drier are set up (next to one of the 2000 lb double sided concrete sinks). The curb is solid concrete and the walls are cement block. The curb is wide enough on top (approx 6") that PT 2x4 base plate would still leave a couple inches between the framed wall and the concrete block for air circulation.
Just a guess here but it sounds to as if that curb could be the top of the footing for the wall. Is that possible?
At any rate, hang your plate over the curb to the inside 3/4" and use 1 x pressure treated board on the face of the curb. Use some plastic sheeting from the floor up the wall a ways to keep moisture from migrating into your drywall.
It probably is the footer. I'm guessing the house may have originally had a dirt floor basement and it was dug out later when the slab was poured to gain headroom.http://logancustomcopper.com
http://grantlogan.net/
It's like the whole world's walking pretty and you can't find no room to move. - the Boss
I married my cousin in Arkansas - I married two more when I got to Utah. - the Gourds
Thanks everyone. I will use a layer of plastic and wrap the curb with 2x4 pressure treated on top and 1x6 PT on the front. Would you all fasten the 1x6 to the face of the curb, or would fasteners from the 2x4 base plate be enough?
If that curb isn't straight, I would snap a line for your 2x4 pt plate 3/4" back from the face of the stud and nail that plate in. Then I would nail a 1x8 to the face of the of the plate flush to the top and have 1-1/2" of nailing into that. If the curb is in or out, all you have to do is just shim the bottom and only have to nail the bottom of the 1x to the curb. Nail your studs flush to the outside of the 1x.
Hi Kray, I have seen that detail before in homes of that era, and some have guessed it is probably the top of the footer, anyway, I'm assuming you have raw(unpainted) concrete at the curb and foundation wall, If so, thenI would strongly suggest covering at least the curb face and top, and up the foundation wall with Drylok. Do not use plastic, it will give any moisture in the air the cool surface to condense on that it is looking for. I would suggest you hang your 2x4 P.T. plate over the front edge of the curb only as far as is needed to achieve a straight line. Measure in on each end 3" , snap a line, then check the dimension from line to face of curb all along the length, this will show you where the curb is "crooked", Once you have built the wall use a piece of 1x8 P.T. and fasten it to the face of the studs/plate, Then use this new "ledge" to set your Drywall on, Ideally you would choose to use some of the new "paperless" drywalls on at least the first row, all around the room, this will go a long way toward preventing moisture damage and mold growth.
The 2000 lb. sink....Is that soapstone or really concrete?
Geoff
Personally, I'd try to talk a client into terminating the drywall above the curb (footer) and use a base profile tall enough to cover the exposed concrete. The base is then shielded from the concrete with ice and water shield and attached with concrete screws.
Beer was created so carpenters wouldn't rule the world.