Replies

1. 
   Ralph_Wicklund | Apr 04, 2001 03:58am | #1

   *
   Risking a slap here, but it's ONLY a closet. Frame that bad boy up, use some shims on the top plate if it's not tight enough, Run some screws up through the plaster and into the lath or joists if you can hit them. Finish your walls up and cut your rock neatly to the existing ceiling and wall junctions. Then it's your choice as to whether you want to tape or put in a neat bead of caulk. If you are or have a good plaster mechanic then matching texture is a piece of cake. No cutting, patching or cleaning up a mess of existing plaster.

1. 
   Mike_Smith | Apr 04, 2001 05:26am | #2

   *that's about it .. just like ralph described it...

1. 
   Jeff_J._Buck | Apr 04, 2001 05:39am | #3

   *Another go fer it here. This is a situation we run into with each rental we do for a steady customer....steal the two back to back closets in the two upstairs BR's to add a bath....then put in a closet in each bedroom. Just leave the ceiling and walls as is. If you cut and remove the base exactly where the outside edge of the drywall will fall.....you can wrap the closet with the original....and really tie it into the room. If trimming the closet door....match the existing trim on the BR door too. Cut the drywall close....take the time to fit it tight...and caulk it at the ceiling and the walls. Here's a tip for getting the wall tipped up... put a top plate up on the ceiling where it should be....drop a plumb line and set a bottom plate onto the floor. Now...frame the walls with a top and bottom plate and studs as usual...that fits tightly between the already attached plates....basically a wall 3 inches shorter that ceiling to floor....tilt it up....and set it onto the botom plate. Hammer it in and nail off. Don't have to worry about scratching the ceiling as with a full size wall. Jeff

1. 
   Steve_Merrette | Apr 04, 2001 06:25pm | #4

   *Thanks guys, Yeah I know that a slap would be in order, but hey I'm relatively new to doing this for profit and want to make sure I cross my i's and dot my t's (ha ha)You old salty dogs are a big help. I've never had anybody to show me the ropes like some of you. I got interested after doing repairs to my own place and found I had a knack for it. I've studied my ass off on my own and have tried to learn whatever I can about all aspects of building and remodeling. Thank God or whoever is in charge that I have a pretty good natural ability to work with my hands and my head. I plan on taking pictures from start to finish to build my portfolio and I will post those so that you guys can (if you would please) give me an honest assessment of how my work turned out, understanding that sometimes it's hard to tell from just a picture. Thanks again.p.s. One thing I forgot to mention is that in the 1890's house there is a closet but its only 12" deep and I'm actually building it out. I will need to remove a little of the old wall so that there isn't a little wall in the middle of each side of the inside of the closet. It's not a load bearing wall so I should be able to do ti without having to jack anyhthing or putting in a new header. as I said I'll let you guys know how it turns out.

1. 
   Ralph_Wicklund | Apr 05, 2001 03:41am | #5

   *Jeff, I build it the other way. Put the bottom plate where you want it, then use my 6 ft. level with a straight edge extension to mark the ceiling where I want the top plate. Attach the top plate to the marks and then cut the studs individually to fit real tight and toe nail them in. Sometimes there's not enough room to build a wall on the floor and stand it up or when you're working alone it's unwieldy to tip up a wall AND fit it. And then there's those out of plumb walls and unlevel floors and ceilings and your perfect framework built on the floor swings in the breeze on one end and is too long on the other. You know what I mean.

2. 
   Jeff_J._Buck | Apr 05, 2001 04:44am | #6

   *Yeah.....that's the other way we do it! The squeeze in only works well with level floor and ceiling, and enough room. But....I like to attach the top first...then plumb down....with my handy-dandy retractable plumb bob...with an attaching spike....it real easy for one person. Now.....getting that plate up there first....that's another story......but the point here is to give me a reason to play with the plumb bob toy! When I do it this way....I like the studs to fit tight w/o nails....makes the toe nailing easier. Jeff

3. 
   Greg_Brown | Apr 08, 2001 08:50pm | #7

   *Jeff- those plumb bob boxes are sweet, aren't they? Perfect for setting door jambs. gb

4. 
   Jeff_J._Buck | Apr 09, 2001 02:13am | #8

   *Greg...is it just me...and the fact I paid like over $20 or what ever for it....but doesn't the plumb bob seem to settle alot faster on these? Seems to find dead center twice as quick as a regular bob. Jeff

5. 
   Mike_Smith | Apr 09, 2001 04:05am | #9

   *it's just you , jeff.. and that fertile imagination...dip it and center it..or trap it.. they'll settle fast enougha 16 oz. surveyor's bob settles fast too...but even faster and more useful is a 3-beam or 5 -bean laser...

6. 
   Jeff_J._Buck | Apr 10, 2001 12:47am | #10

   *I bet yer saying that with out even having one of those cool plumb bobs! ...oh yeah...I almost forgot the best part.....sticking the bob to the magnets on the side when you're done! Jeff

7. 
   Mike_Smith | Apr 10, 2001 05:05am | #11

   *..i almost forgot the worst part...trying to plumb in a wind.....or.. for that matter.. trying to do anything in a wind ..except sail...night jeff.. rub little buddha for me... dad..

8. 
   bill_burns | Apr 14, 2001 03:49am | #12

   *if you don't have nailgun, borrow one. the less hand hammering you do around old plaster, the better. another thing to consider is using metal stud or engineered 2x.s, they won't shrink after installation.

9. 
   Steve_Merrette | Apr 14, 2001 05:34am | #13

   *Guns I got, everything except a stapler snd oh yeah a coil gun (I don't do roofs (and yeah I also know that there are coil spikers)). I've never worked with the metal studs. I've seen alot of them in commercial installations but not alot in residential yet. I wouldn't mind trying em out someday though. I don't know what I was thinking about cutting the plaster. temporary brain fart I think.

10. 
    Jeff_J._Buck | Apr 14, 2001 07:26am | #14

    *and I even avoid the nail guns on a job like this. Everything gets screwed. Wood and/or steel stud. A small project like this is great to appreciate steel studs......unless the ceiling or floor is way outta whack.....then I find it easier to taper and trim to fit wood. Play with some steel.....you'll like it! Basic small project steel stud kit:...sharpie markers...alot of sharp utility knife blades...speed square...aviation snips...pony spring clamps....at least 4.....16 or 20 better...drill/driver...VSR trigger...magnetic torpedo level...gloves till ya get used to it...and bandaides....Jeff

11. 
    Boss_Hog | Apr 14, 2001 01:18pm | #15

    *I added 2 closets in our 1910 house, and did basically what Jeff described. I used screws alot to avoid banging on the plaster walls. Had to cut almost every stud a different length since the ceiling and floor weren't flat. Then I "toe-screwed" the studs into place. I didn't build the wall first like Jeff described then put it into place. It was hard to make the doors look good on an uneven floor. But for the most part it looks pretty good.

12. 
    David_H._Polston | Apr 16, 2001 04:38am | #16

    *I totally agree with the bandaids ... I found out the hard way! I use the vice grips with the big mouth (Depot = 9 bucks) for metal studs. Side note: make sure you find the self tapping drywall screws made for metal studs. It'll save you some headaches.The last closet I did was in a house build in 1925. I used wooden studs and screwed right into the plaster walls. I remember having to drill pilot holes to find the studs. I don't know if I was having a bad day or my stud finder was. It didn't work. It is an easy job. The hardest part for me was matching the old trim. I had to make it myself but it brought out the craftsman in me!I love the smell of sawdust in the morning!Splinky

2. 
   Steve_Merrette | Apr 16, 2001 04:38am | #17

   *
   Ok Gang, I've got two jobs I'm looking at now and both are remodels to real old homes. The first was buit around 1890 and the second around 1920. Both are lathe and plaster and are looking to have new closets framed into the bedrooms. Here's my question, How should I approach the top plates? should I try to just nail though the plaster and into the joists? (I haven't determined the orientation of the joists yet)or should I cut out the plaster (yeah I know that's going to be messy) to secure the new walls better to the existing structure? Also I'm wondering where in BOCA 1996 (which is our municipality's current code) would I find reference to this. Also I've found the reference for double top plates for load bearing walls (2305.4.2) but can't seem to find something referring to interior non load bearing walls. thanks for your input.